Acteur
Azzaro (1989)

This could be a gateway rose scent for me. I have never been a great fan of the smell of roses--in the garden, in perfume--and I hate the taste of rosewater in cooking. That said, this winey, fruity, herbal leather scent is so well blended that I do not focus solely on the rose but more on the sum of the parts of this fragrance. Yes, there is a nod to the Gothic, but this is at heart the scent of a well groomed bon vivant. A glass of vintage wine by his side, bench-made leather shoes on his feet, sitting in an old, wood-paneled room with just a trace of musky humanity coming through the expensive soap. Yes, he may be waiting for the sun to set before he heads out for the night, but what of it? And, yes, there may be the thud of velvet-petalled roses thrown into an open grave, and why not? One has to lean into all of that to wear this scent. You may never lean back.

Acteur was launched two years after Chanel released (and then quickly withdrew) Bois Noir, the predecessor to Egoiste. This warrants a mention because they bear a distinct similarity in the plummy rose accord that is a prominent note in both. The difference between them is that BN and Egoiste rest on a lavender base where Acteur's foundation is oakmoss. But where the Chanel offerings blast out of the nozzle with a raspy dose of lavender which dominates the rose, Acteur is softer and smoother and lets the rose note share the stage. Acteur is more proof of why the late 80's and early 90's are the apex years of men's fragrance. I have a lot of back-up for Acteur and wear it often, especially in the fall and winter. To my nose, it is every bit a masterpiece as BN and Egoiste and can still garner inquiries and compliments.

And at this writing, Acteur can still be found at semi-reasonable prices, considering it's been out of production for years.

A seductive, boozy rose, wrapped in brushed leather and dried fruits. Come to Papa.

This must have been bizarre upon its release in 1989, when the world of masculine fragrances was just coming off the heels of powerhouse chypres and often brassy fougeres. Don't be mistaken though, this does have its own panache, but it was so left field for its time (much like Paco Rabanne Ténéré) that it wasn't commercially successful. These days, a scent similar to this is de rigeur (see Etro ManRose).

I wear this when I want to be reminded that there is a sophisticated side to me. I am not quite as simple as the world would like me to think.

One of the best Rose masculines in existence.

Centered, not too green, not too jammy, not too dark; juuuust riiiight.

A must try while vintage specimens are available at reasonable prices.

Loris Azzaro's Acteur takes the stage with a plum swagger, waving to the cheap seats with a spicy sweet flag, and shaking a heavy rose rump with peppery zeal and a bergamot bite; followed dutifully by a cast of jasmine dancers, carnation strippers, patchouli tamers and cedar mimes; giving way to a mercurial leathery oakmoss finish that is outfitted with shoulder pads of amber and musk. Take a bow, dear Acteur for celebrating the rose carny... The dark rose leather of Acteur remains cultish, out of step then and now, dandy-esque, and simply to be embraced. A Jacques Brel meets Marc Almond kind of number...

A review of the vintage version

The opening with its archetypal bergamot in combination with cardamom provides a classical fougére opening, which is given additional complexity by means of adding a greenish calamus with a nutmeg-like mace infusion - all these result in a herbal-fresh set of top notes.

Going into the drydown, I note the turn to the floral side, but not to sweet florals. The one of the main players amongst the heart notes is a herbal rose note. This is a discrete but nonetheless intense rose, whose volumes has been dialed down sufficiently to blend in seamlessly with the other components. The later are constituted by white carnation as well as a delicious traditional oakmoss. This oakmoss is of a restrained harshness, and it is subtly crisp. Whiffs of a dark patchouli of similar gentle harshness is are present at times too.

The base is characterised by the development and a moderately tannic leather impression. This leather is not very hard and of limited smokiness only. Towards the end dark and musky undertone together with a woodsy - mainly cedar - aroma in the background adds additional depth.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a very good eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal creation of considerable originality is a convincing example of a top-notch chypre fragrance. Less harsh than Gucci Nobile, smoother than Gianfranco Ferré for Man, and with a beautiful pre-IFRA-castration oakmoss that distinguishes it from the like of Monsieur Le Couturier for instance. The quality of the ingredients is superb and the performance is very good. 4/5.