Al Quds
Abdul Karim Al Faransi

Although none is listed, my first thought is oud - thick, varnishy, with a smoky sourness that simultaneously repulses and attracts. But there is no oud here, so what has likely happened is that a spiky vegetal amber in the Indian tradition is sparking off the pungent patchouli, black musk, and saffron notes to conjure the ghost of an animalic Hindi out of thin air.

It is an impressive feat, imbuing a zero-oud scent with its characteristic fermented, sour-smoky flavors via a plethora of other materials. In terms of complexity, Al Quds approaches the level of those old-fashioned hina or shamama attar made using traditional techniques. It has the ring of something made in a copper deg.

Through the funky haze of ‘oud’ and black musk, a more sedate rose-amber accord emerges, backed by the austerity of Somalian frankincense. Still, the balance between the familiar (rose, amber, frankincense) and the strange (black tar, human scalp, rubber) is taut enough to keep the wearer intrigued.

As time wears on, a rooty patchouli grips the scent, drenching everything in a camphoraceous chill. The rose retreats to the sidelines, offering only far-off puffs of sweet rosiness. Slowly, the patch dries out, becoming a dry, dark leather that mingles with the incense and rose to create something more headshoppy than souk-ish. The costus-tinted black musk remains firmly wrapped around the main accord, creating a skin-like muskiness.

It is hours before the thought finally strikes me - this is Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums in attar form! Yes indeed, this is the same gamey patchouli leather with dark rose hiding out at the corners. Al Quds is an atypical mukhallat in that it is more suggestive of Seattle counter-culture than a Middle-Eastern bazaar. Strongly recommended to lovers of the grimy rose and leather chypres of the seventies, a genre to which Noir Patchouli, Aramis 900, and Aromatics Elixir all firmly belong.

A dusty, smoky, soft leather, with a bit of comforting sweetness from the amber. The opening has some slight funk, but it quickly transforms into something smoother. Mildly fascinating.