al03
Biehl Parfumkunstwerke (2010)

A perfect specimen to represent Germanic perfumery.
The blending is extremely smooth, and the materials are polite and if good quality.
The introduction begins with a muted, pleasant leather that is ushered in with an also muted citrus accord. This is a very well mannered leather, in the same way that civet is well mannered in Givenchy's Gentleman. This leather could not "get up the nose", in my opinion, and I've worn this on a hot, humid day while working indoors and saw no "leather cloy" effect.

This is a beautiful composition, that feels like a heavy hand is held on the bouquet's muzzle, as it feels like it is being kept from "Full Bloom". It's as if the climax of the movie isn't resolved, we're left waiting for the next plot development that doesn't happen.

That's a minor detraction, as the fragrance has some development and the notes are carefully paired in a classic Germanically "Engineered" style. I've felt this exact same feeling with Bogner as well, and even Joop! Femme to a lesser extent. Very mechanical, yet a satisfying experience.

7.5/10, thumbs up

Delightfully bitter, green aromatic herbs open aI03, flagellating my nostrils into alertness, the artemisia, rosemary, and the like. These are merely glazed with citrus and some flowers, and the overall effect is comfortably arid, almost desert-like, with it growing more smoky, almost creosote-like.

Leathery quinolines join this phenolic accord while still green and fresh. Patchouli and vetiver steeped in spices are part of this phase of aI03. I almost detect what reminds me of piñon pine resin incense and ponderosa oil. This coniferous passage yields to more the interior of the trees than its oozing exudate.

Pines, oaks, and most of all, cedar open up their flesh and are slathered with a sheer layer of castoreum and rolled in the ground-dwelling lichens. What a magnificently dry, masculine affair, a real buffet for the olfactory.

I would describe this as a rounder, somewhat more modern and naturalistic approach to woody, musky, leathery scents of the 1980s. Think Jil Sander Man (1981), Hermes Bel Ami, Halston Z-14, and the like, with heretofore unexplored frontiers added to the journey, and more understated radiance. Gorgeous stuff.

Stardate 20170814:

A very nice leathery fragrance. Very similar in style to Puredistance M, BelAmi, Moschino PH.
Not as good but they are trying hard and this one is definitely FBW

Overwhelming artificial fruit scent from top to bottom with a base of orange oil furniture polish and dusty leather. This is chemical sweetness in a bottle that evokes an air freshener intended to mask some intensely foul odor. Projects mightily and lasts more than 5 hours before breaking down to even less distinctive cloying sweetness. If one could imagine banana bread baking in a horse barn while leather tanning is occurring, well that's what this is!