Aleksandr
Arquiste (2011)

This is actually a beautiful scent! And I think completely unisex. It has a minty-camphoraceous feel at the beginning (perhaps reminding us that Alexander Pushkin and Russia are the inspirations). I suspect from the fir balsam. Then violets, intense. The violets are then wrapped up in suede, or leather. Floral, yet has an animalic edge to it.

This is not, in my opinion, a casual scent. More formal, reserved. For occasions grand, and to impress with elan.

That Yann Vasnier did it, is no wonder!

Recommended!

Aleksandr reminded me of something and eventually I was able to remember what it was. When I tested Tuscan Leather on skin, it lasted two whole days and the second day, after it had died down and was humming along nicely, was comparable to Aleksandr. The latter is a well-blended leather that might be suitable for leather aficionados as well as fans of Tuscan Leather who could do without the nuclear performance.

Aleksandr opens with prominent violet, quickly bolstered by the neroli. The "iced vodka" effect, in conjunction no doubt with the suggestions of the marketing, effectively bring to mind an early start somewhere outside St Petersburg. As with Tuscan Leather and various other contenders, such as Floris's Mahon Leather, the overall aim is to decorate the tanned skin with some floral or fresher accords. The final hours are those of a prominent but assertive skin scent. Very interesting and rather good. Even, dare I say, conceptually coherent.

Neroli leading into fresh, greenish leather. Cozy and great for the gentleman.

The violet-neroli duet at the opening sounds maybe a bit unoriginal, but it is surprisingly well executed. The violet is clearly in the foreground, whilst the neroli provides a basso continuo in the background that adds an element of freshness to the violent lead.

Soon a woodsy drydown presents, dominated by a fir note that is a bit on the darker side, like in a rain in the forest. It then takes on a balsamic note, but not in a eucalyptus-style, more in a slightly camphoric way.

The base adds a leather impression. The leather initially is harsher, but never in the wild and car-fume infused way of Knize Ten. Later it softens up considerably, more like Lang's Cuiron or Kölnisch Juchten and less like Tuscan Leather.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity around eight hours.

The lovely autumnal creation of good quality, with some creative touches and good perfomance. May be not Aleksandr the Great but very respectable. 3.5/5.

Oh my....I think I will need to purchase this for my husband to wear...this is nice...really nice...

It's a good thing I'm not prone to jealous rages...

Genre: Leather

Unlike some previous reviewers, I do not find this to be a quiet scent. Aleksandr's huge violet top note is overwhelmingly potent – strong enough to stir memories of pre-reformulation Fahrenheit. The violets-that-ate-Tokyo are soon joined by a pungent, chilly balsam fir note and a smoky, birch tar-laden leather accord. The tripartite structure unfurls in linear fashion over the course of three or four hours, landing eventually upon a rugged woody-balsamic leather drydown.

Violet and leather has been done before – most effectively in Heeley's marvelous Cuir Pleine Fleur. In that case, the structure is filled out with vetiver, rather than balsam fir, though to similarly cool, crisp effect. Aleksandr is a more angular, hard-edged fragrance than Cuir Pleine Fleur, with a more brusquely elemental profile. I enjoy the Heeley for its suavity, the Arquiste for its directness, but ultimately prefer Cuir Pleine Fleur, whose oddly savory vetiver, violet, and leather accord feels both more novel and more sophisticated. That said, I still think Aleksandr is the best-executed of the Arquiste scents that I have sampled, and would recommend it to anyone who enjoys violets or smoky leather.