Ambre Persan
Bryenne (1927)

BRYENNE – AMBRE PERSAN (1927)

Bryenne of Paris, France, was established in 1911 by Jacques Brach. The perfumes were imported into the USA by sole agents the Lionel Trading Co. Little remains written about this obscure perfume company, which produced only 8 scents from 1911 to 1929, except that there remains a history of the beautiful flacons that were made by Baccarat and Julien Viard for this perfumery. One of the most famous flacons was for a perfume called Chu Chin Chow, which was presented in an enameled Buddha flacon. These bottles and the boxes that housed them are collectors' items that fetch high prices in today's market.

Chu Chin Chow, by the way, was a British musical comedy from 1916, that broke all London box office long run records for its day, 2,238 performances covering five years, a feat not equaled until 1943's Oklahoma! made its way across the ocean.

Ambre Persan is a warm, mellow and perfectly balanced combination of spices, resins and amber/musk notes. I detect none of the top notes, probably due to the age of the sample, although the peach is present in the dry down. The Ylang is still detectable, bringing a fruity lift to the composition. The incense/benzoin, patchouli/amber base is truly beautiful.

It is a unique scent. I've no memory of ever encountering one quite like it before. It has a gourmand effect, a rich honeyed aroma, probably due to the anonymous spice notes. I am reminded of a honeyed peach pastry left in the oven just a bit too long, not burned, but slightly darker and more redolent of the slightly over done crust.

Amazingly still available from private sellers on the internet, despite its rarity and age. Very worth seeking out as an unusual and satisfying vintage fragrance. Quite unisex.

Top notes: Orange Blossom, Peach, Lemon, Neroli
Heart notes: Aniseed, Ylang Ylang, Orris, Frankincense, Spices
Base notes: Clove, Benzoin, Amber, Musk, Patchouli, Incense

The eight perfumes of Bryenne: L'Heure Exquise (1911); Chu Chin Chow (1918); Le Lilas (1920); Mabrouka (1927); Sentimental (1927); Ambre Persan (1927); Fascination (1928); Brenny (1929).