Aoud Exclusif
Mancera (2018)

I know this might be an unpopular opinion, but I find this fragrance to be just another boring oud/rose combination. While it's blended well, I don't think it's particularly unique or innovative. The scent is more pleasant when it's not sniffed up close, as it can be a bit too harsh. The sillage is moderate, but the longevity is impressive. It might be worth considering if you're a fan of oud and rose fragrances, but personally, I find it overrated.

Cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, and an unlit stick of Japanese incense dusted onto a slightly animalic rose, resting on polite leather, smooth wood, and just a bit of medicine.

This is the elegant version of Montale’s Black Aoud pre 2010.

Beautiful, sexy, addictive, and eminently wearable.

Quite linear, which is a good thing when you smell this good.

Four sprays will last you all day, and more than six sprays will make people run quickly away.

My new favourite Mancera-Montale aoud fragrance.

9/10

Mancera and Montale have got the knack of well turned out, full-spectrum woody perfumes down pat. Aoud Exclusif is in that lineage and it radiates in waves, greeting the wearer and all those around with its magnetic yet friendly presence. It reminds me of the scent impressions of walking past attar and ‘oriental' emporiums in Mumbai – you may be on the pavement but a tongue of mysterious perfume comes up and lovingly licks you as pass by. In terms of notes this is dark woods, sweetened spices, a few scattered dried fruits, antique carpets… But it's the feel of the thing that counts. And this registers as both rich and fresh, full of gradations – like a welcome hug from a stranger you want to get to know much better (maybe even in *that* way). The deep drydown goes down the peppery-smoky path and is consequently a bit shop-worn.

I've spent some time with Aoud Exclusif and after 20mls I can only conclude that this is a brilliant release by Mancera. The opening is incredibly dense and heavy which reflects in the oil concentration, initially I smell rose/oud and spices, there is a cumin note at first that I took some time to adjust too, luckily it isn't dominant and just adds to the masculinity, it bounces off the leather that peek's through the transition into the mid, the oud in this isn't too challenging but is slightly medicinal. Once your into the mid there is an ambery feel of the highest order that seems like today to be the leading accord blowing its trumpet with the rest of the mentioned notes closely followed by. I feel like this fragrance is very complexed and for that reason I never get bored, some days it's all about the amber, others it's about the leather or oud and I'm constantly enjoying the changes on my skin (12+ hours), the other great thing about this fragrance is the value for money, it's a great journey throughout the day and excellent quality, a 120ml bottle would last many years in rotation.

Aoud Exclusif is one of a trio of new releases from Mancera that are similarly named (the others are Jardin Exclusif and Vanille Exclusive) and have seemingly been very well-received.

The Mancera/Montale empire contains a plethora of "aoud"-named fragrances so while I expect good performance from these, as from the brands in general, the expectation of being blown away by the latest release is not realistic. There are familiar oud partners in this: rose, patchouli, saffron, and pepper. However, what sticks out to me and is not explained by the notes is the vague sort of fruity sweetness that balance s what seem to be mostly be more savory- or spicy-leaning notes. I assume it's the labdanum that does is.

I'm quite impressed by Aoud Exclusif, though, mainly due to how balanced and pleasant of an oud creation it is. It performs well, like most Montale and Mancera offerings, and I'm reasonably impressed overall with how nice it is, and that the pricing is the same as usual at $180 for 120ml. I'd recommend that rose/oud fans or those who usually like Montale/Mancera stuff try this out.

8 out of 10