Aube Rubis
Atelier Des Ors (2015)

I was kindly provided the opportunity to test a few Atelier des Ors fragrances(thank you!), and here are my thoughts on Aube Rubis:

I really enjoy the opening of Aube Rubis: a waxy, lipstick-like iris, followed by earthy, dirt-like patchouli and the equally earthy but also somewhat spicy and aromatic sage. This wonderful bouquet is then dusted with nutty, chocolate-y praline. The juxtaposition of tender sweetness and sharp earthiness is entincing, and it reminds me of the dynamic between patchouli and caramel chocolate in Mugler Angel but in a less violent, more approachable way.

But then...it sort of just collapsed on itself. Out of nowhere, a caramelised amber sweetness, not dissimlar to that in Iris Fauve, starts to permeate everthing. The iris and patchouli are smashed together and become a plum-like nebulous sweetness. Aube Rubis is now a caramelised fruitchouli with occiasional surges of medicinal patchouli, and remains so during its 10-hour longevity. The sillage is moderate throughout its wear on my skin.

To its credit, I find Aube Rubis a more interesting fruitchouli thanks to its dynamic opening, especially the aromatic sage, and it's not among the most sugary fruitchouli, either. But the more or less conventional fruity gourmand patchouli dry down still left me disappointed. I would be hesitant to recommend it unless you're looking for a sweet fruity patchouli and has a sizeable budget.

A stout hard to wear fragrance. Atelier Des Ors Aube Rubis starts like a sort of less leathery "praliney" Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman. This is a scent in which (especially in its opening) the connection of suedish iris, smooth patchouli and acid/salty praline give out the illusion of intensive (kind of juicy-fizzy-bitter-woody) leather while patchouli smells initially smooth, luxurious (kind of ostensibly liquorous and glorious on hesperides) and leathery. The not listed leather (a sort of "ideally fruity-fizzy" Classic Aramis-like leather) is like a synthetic ghost lingering all around throughout while I perceive all ovet that disturbing pencil-shavings effect which is not so distant from the ones we got in Montana Graphite, Balmain Carbone or Gucci Pour Homme I (Aube Rubis could indeed sound as a sort of fruity ideal Gucci Pour Homme I's far relative). Patchouli along the way goes fading, I detect hints of saffron while a disturbing salty-pencil shavings woodiness starts relentlessly emerging. Surely vetiver and praline provide intensive fizzy saltiness while I get as well a sort of vegetal fruity/leafy (almost juicy) intensity provided by a sheer connection of violet, grapefruit and praline. Dry down is quite powerful on pencil-woodiness, simil-leather, kind of ostensibly berrish fruitiness (praline) and edgy violet. Honestly dry down smells somewhat boring, sometimes disturbing and kind of monolithic (in a woody-synthetically fruity way). An obsessive fragrance.

P.S: really, really persistent juice on skin. Actually after many hours of journey the powerful woodiness slightly recedes and the "accomplished" aroma conjures me significantly the old "by a red leather 'jacket' bottle wrapped" Habit Rouge Edp (oudhish/leatherish) formula (just being this Atelier Des Or's fragrance more properly woody - in a "pencil" way- and less deliberately and sweetly vanillic/benzoinic/musky). Montale Audh Musk is another fragrance jumping on mind for several of its hallmarks.