Azzaro 9
Azzaro (1984)

With big bunches of pineapple and salmon pink flowers, this is an 80’s floral through and through.

But it’s not a typical specimen. A combination of cool white lily and incense give a churchy overtone to the tuberose and orange flower, subduing them and making them feel more refined.

Sweet amber and silky smooth florals - offset by dry raspy incense and indole - it starts off sweet-ish, but not too much, and gets drier; giving the impression that it's no ‘Hooray Henrietta’ but a more thoughtful type... They say it’s the quiet ones you need watch, and this is no exception.

It feels like an Alberto Morillas, but I was surprised by the (relative) sobriety and the plasticky feel of the opening phase; maybe that was Roger Pellegrino at work.

And to paraphrase what Emperor Joseph II said to Mozart: A good effort, well ... an excellent effort; just, the problem isn't that there are too many notes*, they just aren’t the right ones for today.

*Cf: Azzaro 9 - Fragrantica

The opening consists of a bowl of aldehydic fruit salad, including mainly oranges, pineapple, peach and bergamot, all combining to a bright and uplifting experience, which might have been even brighter when the juice was fresher than my vintage sample.

The drydown turns into a floral potpourri, with a delightful dyad of muguet and carnation in the foreground; and an - at times a bit pale - rose is added in too. The first two florals are intense and rich, whilst the rose shines more in the background providing added depth. Later on a rich and creamy ylang-ylang adds further smoothness.

The base is noteworthy for a tonka note that arises, which at times I get undertones of sandalwood too. Touches of gentle spiciness with whiffs of a bright and elegant powderiness lead into the final stages.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a superb thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring creation for elegant evenings out is soft, rich and intense, with a lovely sweetness that is never overly cloying or intrusive. It probably lost some freshness over the decades, but it is blended masterfully from ingredients of the highest quality. 4/5.

Azzaro 9 was such a beautiful scent. In some ways, it reminded me of L'air du temps by Nina Ricci. It was very delicate, feminine and young. It was sweet, spicy and fruity but not at all candyish. I think this fragrance came just a few decades too late. If it were launched in 1948, like L'air du temps, I am sure it would have become a classic too. I really hate it when great fragrances are discontinued...

I have finally found a fragrance where the top and the heart are very defined to my ignorant nose! The only thing that I can say about the top is that there was something involved that my nose did NOT like and the only way to describe it is that it bothered the left side of my nose (sorry to not be more understandably descriptive).

Now that it's in the heart portion, that unpleasant buzzy sensation has gone away and I'm smelling one very strong flower scent. Is this what tuberose smells like? I wish I knew.

I'm giving it a neutral ranking because the positive heart cancels out the negative top. I don't know what the base note will be like - or if I will even notice it.

Sadie

As often happens with my, my bod goes right for the heart notes and the immediate impression is of spicy tuberose.Then the other flowers gently drift in and the whole then gentled with soft musk and cedar. I never feel the fruits or aldehydes...still tender and pretty. Pity it's discontinued.

A lovely scent satisfy my desire to be the "special" lady.