Azzaro
Azzaro (1975)

I have the pure parfum of Azzaro and I used to also have Azzaro edp. I'm very found of it. Azzaro Couture original was composed in 1975 by Maurice Thiboud (according to Grain de Musc). The demonstration bottle I used to have listed the following notes: "Principaux Composants": rose, tuberose, gardenia, jacinthe, jasmin, ylang ylang, iris, vetiver, sandal, coriander, peche, ambre gris, musc, civette.

To my nose Azzaro smells like an old school floral chypre-, or perhaps fruity chypre so I'm sure it also contains at least a few more chypre elements like oakmoss and and a little mote of patchouli. The complex blend is difficult to break down into individual notes but it has a very balanced content of both floral and animalistic notes firmly grounded with moss and woods.

The pure perfume is darker but also smoother than the edp. The peach inside is more pronounced and it doesn't have the freshness that usually comes with the peach, but the delicious silky sweetness (like in Mitsouko extrait) slightly spiced with coriander. The perfume is even more animalistic from the high content of civet. While the edp is brightened by aldehydes and has some amount of powdery iris which creates a noticable trail, the perfume has rarely any aldehydes and the amount of powdery notes are low so the perfume stays much closer to the skin.

I read somewhere that this beautiful creation was Loris Azzaros signature, so I guess it might work very well as an unisex perfume.