Balmain de Balmain
Pierre Balmain (1998)

Light black pepper bondage and a bracing bite of galbanum open up Balmain de Balmain as if Grace Jones all dressed in angular purple came just a short of grabbing you by the dumplings with steely eyes and a flash of a grin. This, ladies and gentlemen and everyone else on the spectrum, the culmination of the green chypre as it meets its match: the duo of violet and cassis.

Just a tad bitter, somewhat sour, grassy, wildflowers, stems, leaves and all, this has a vibrance and lilt that hovers over its edges and hedges. Violets are underlined by iris in the heart, and the floral quality isn't heady but rather glimmering. Glow little glow worm, glimmer glimmer, along those leaves and tendrils while your shield bug companions much on berries. Balmain de Balmain is vivacious but not necessarily feminine in its heart: it could be sensible pumps or handsome loafers with a striking color.

It is simultaneously old-fashioned and modern, treading between reverie and being very much right in the moment. As it continues to dry down, it is reminiscent of the fabled Givenchy Insensé, albeit more violet-hued and with a backdrop of a dry glade surrounded by sun-warmed trees. The body of Balmain de Balmain speaks my language, but it speaks in a cadence that has me lost within its words. It's impeccable. Manly men, you would love it, don't be afraid of taking a dip in the fragrance lady pond.

completely agree with Way off Scenters' review above. I love this one. The only problem is,in the UK its hard to get hold of for a reasonable price or at all! I have used up my small sample and was thrilled at being able to buy a brand new 30ml splash bottle in its original box, navy blue corner label etc but am sad to find that the stopper is absolutely jammed in the bottle and won't open! Any tips before I break the top off to get to the precious juice! Grr!

A very pleasant, but unfortunately a very undistinguished fragrance - especially from a house like Balmain. Balmain de Balmain reminds me slightly of YSL's Y (the original ladies Y, not the new Y for men), with added blackcurrant notes. The pure perfume is notably richer than the edt. Very pleasant, but sadly nothing special

The opening is a classic fougère blast: bergamot and galbanum as the core top notes, fresh, crisp and a touch peppery, but less green in character than, for instance, Montana Homme.

Soon a delightful oakmoss enhances the astringent side a bit more, with a drydown that expresses a floral tendency apt for a fougère - jasmine mainly and some iris, but on my skin the opening notes are still present at an equal strength. In this well-crafted blend of the chypre with the floral lies he attraction of the heart notes, which is enhanced by a touch of a restrained rose in the background.

The base adds some general woodsy untertones, with the tail end of the galbanum impression still present and mixed with an underlying green vetiver layer towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

An archetypal chypre, with the bergamot, the galbanum and the oakmoss being of very high quality, balanced in its astringency and not very loud - this is no Gucci Nobile. A very fine fougère. 3.5/5.

Had a hankerin' for a green chypre and came across in some forgotten decants. Lovely, and is that an echo of the classic "mousse de saxe" I detect? Soapy and darkly green it is.

Genre: Chypre
Once in a great while I'll put a fragrance on for the first time, and “Bam!” I just know it's a winner. Then I'll sit down to review it and find myself at a loss to convey its qualities. Balmain de Balmain is one of those instances. I'll tell you that it's marvelous, and I'll attempt to describe its evolution as I wear it, but I won't do it any justice.

Balmain de Balmain's effervescent top notes have all the kick of champagne corks popping. Crystal clear bergamot, bittersweet herbaceous notes, hints of leather, and smoky spices combine in an accord that's at once rich and stimulating, complex and immediately legible. It's simply one of the most gratifying opening gambits I've smelled. Ever. And it makes me smile every time.

The bergamot inevitably recedes with time, and its place in the composition is taken by floral notes, most noticeably a clear, green jasmine. The spices persist, while a brisk, yet earthy green chypre accord assembles itself in the foundation. As the floral notes and spices fade away, the moss and woods of the chypre core stand exposed in all of their gaunt beauty.

Balmain de Balmain's structure and progression go beyond classical; as the scent unwraps itself, each layer comes as a delightful surprise, yet each appears in hindsight to be utterly inevitable. Balmain de Balmain transcends gender: it is as completely unsex a fragrance as anything I've smelled. As if that were not enough, it's also dirt cheap and readily available.

Sometimes miracles do happen. I urge you to experience this one!