Brioni
Brioni (2009)

This one is the very best of the Brioni line and, true to form, was discontinued. Wish I could find some but even Ebay doesn't have it.

*My review is for the expensive 2014 version of this, I think it's a different scent but I don't see it listed here.*

So, finally I was able to try this expensive, sought-after (and discontinued?) “gem”. I'm usually quite a fan of tailors/bespoke brands fragrances, they often seem to put some more budget and care in their products, and seem able to infuse them with some true sense of class and discreet elegance contrary to many other designers - not to mention niche. To this extent, Brioni is not an exception and would be surely worthy a normal high-end designer price. Is it worthy *that* price I see on eBay and online shops now? Absolutely no. Not at all. It's as much nice as far from being particularly memorable from any extent. It is basically a really decent, refined masculine citrus-woody fragrance with some smoke, cedar, lavender, some balsamic and crisp herbs and spices – shortly, a really classic citrus-green cologne with a classy Mediterranean vibe and a subtle woody-soapy bone-structure. A competent, classic “sunny” scent with some smoky wood and an above-average refined presentation. But still, really nothing more that a good designer, something dozens of other fragrances are as well – either designers, or niche's “designer in disguise”. From some Hermès, to some Dior (Eau Sauvage line in particular) to some recent Guerlain (Coriolan meets Homme L'Eau Boisée), to Boellis, with a sprinkle of Kenzo too - bearing in mind you can almost get one for each, at the total price of a single Brioni Eau de Toilette. Unremarkably solid, with a completely insane price tag.

6,5/10

Sobriety and style come out from this juice. A very distinctive, slightly aromatic  and astringent fougere that is sharp and classy cause based  over a strictly balanced association of citrus-lavender, bergamot, aromatic greens and oakmoss. As well as many others mentioned the smell is other than unique and  is overall stiff, conservative, lemony-green and classy. I see the olfactory association with fragrances as Dunhill 1934, Eau Savage and Rochas Moustache in the way it combines the classic-retro', hesperidic, green-aromatic and "laundry-barber-shop" style with a touch of final leather and mossy spirit of the forest (oakmoss-galbanum=heaven). The opaque, grey and conservative dry down of galbanum, oakmoss and tobacco matches the highest spheres of the distinction while the earthy-rooty  combination of vetiver and patchouli enhances the general bold virility of the juice. A pricey olfactory gentleman's come back.

Dior Eau Sauvage, YSL Pour Homme, Boucheron Pour Homme, Chanel Pour Monsieur Rochas Moustache, Fougere Royale and many others...do you get the picture?

While not being exactly similar to any of the above, Brioni shares the same, extremely classic/retro, aromatic-citrus structure. Lavender and oakmoss provide the typical fougere accord while vetiver, patchouli and tonka beans reinforce the overall "classic masculine" vibe.

Brioni smells good and it's made out of top quality ingredients but, to my humble nose, smells anything but distinctive. No reasons to spend such big moneys when you can get loads of masterpieces of the same genre at 1/5 the price.

This is a warm, sophisticated one of a kind gentleman's fragrance. It is totally in the spirit of high-end, elegant style. It is a cousin or best friend of Guerlain's Derby and Dunhill 1934. What is really worth admiring about Brioni is the superb structure. In the structural area it is comparable to the monumental Derby. It's wonderful development reminds me of the now gone but not forgotten Dunhill. Ultimately, however, Brioni is just Brioni, as nearly perfect a fragrance as is in production today. Subtle (if applied correctly) yet very distinctive, in summary it comes down to two words: first class. The prior fragrance was a thumbs up.

UPDATED 2015: Whatever the current fragrance called Brioni is, it is not what was reviewed above. It is totally different as the bottles are different, which is to say totally different in every way. While the prior had character and classic backbone, this "thing" is an exceedingly light floral with something else in it that is so indistinct that it could be anything. It is watery, weak and almost not there. This is from a fairly decent size sample bottle from my nice friends at Bergdorf's. You work hard for your money; don't buy a fragrance that you have to work hard to smell, unless you are intrigued by an exclusivity that is so extreme it isn't even there.

My two cents, of course.

This is a very fresh, warm, and very masculine fragrance. It deserves to be a classic. It's their first male fragrance in 50 years...and I think it was worth the wait!