Caravane
Bienaimé

Bienaime – Caravane (1930/36)

Ylang, Jasmine, Taif Rose
Leather, Cinnamon, Clove, Nutmeg, Anise
Sandalwood, Vetiver, Frankincense, Amber, Musk

The initial impression upon opening a bottle of Caravane is one of overwhelming, warm and re-assuring vanilla, yet this note is not listed in its make-up. This may be due to the initial presence of ylang and jasmine. The spiciness of the cinnamon, clove and nutmeg emerge next, yet these are not at all sharp, but blended beautifully in a sort of Christmas cookie aroma. The presence of Taif Rose is new to my nose. The internet tells me it is of the damask variety, hails from Saudi Arabia, and boasts an intense, powdery rose with hints of tea and honey. This emerges next to float over the spices. The solid base of sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense, amber and musk reminds me of so many other wonderful chypres from the 1930s and 1940s, so it seems to have been a popular combination. There is the experience of there being an encompassing dryness to the whole, as if a good deal of orris had been employed, yet again this is not in the note tree.

Thus, the overall impression is of a honeyed, subtly spiced rose with a rich chypre base. To say this is wonderful to experience is an understatement. Although created for women, this would today be perfectly acceptable for a man to wear, due to its subtle blending and restrained dryness.

My husband reacts to the amber and leather, finding it a rich, dark and thick combination. He notes that the florals are being constantly “refreshed” by the spices, which he finds to be darkly sweet. He envisions this worn by a woman of quality and vibrancy, a bon vivant with a warm and sensual presence.

One of the very finest rose centered perfumes I have experienced to date. Highly recommended. Although long out of production, there are thankfully internet sellers who can still provide bottles. This is one to seek out for all rose lovers.