Cedre Atlas
Atelier Cologne (2015)

Atelier Cologne Cedre Atlas (2015) reads like an unused Calvin Klein brief for a new cK One (1994) flanker repurposed for an entry-level "niche" unisex experience (also read: niche enough for Sephora but not niche enough for Bergdorf). I mean that in the best way possible, but people who have been in the hobby of perfume sampling and collecting for a good amount of time will probably read my words as unintentionally elitist without proper context, so here goes: Calvin Klein doesn't have a niche or prestige arm of their perfume operation, but like to really push olfactive boundaries in an almost science fiction way within their budgetary means and always have, while Atelier Cologne has a bit more cash to compose within their R&D budgets for essentially the same style. Especially within the purview of the cK One line, Calvin Klein does some pretty out-there stuff under the flag of unity-through-scent. Atelier Cologne Cedre Atlas seems to almost attempt a similar merging of masculine and feminine values, being a fruity woody floral composition, obviously synthetic like the Calvin Klein to which I am comparing, but where the ultimate judgement here is made comes from whether or not this is worth the listed $135 USD when you can pick up a comparable cK One scent for that price minus $100 from an online discounter.

The scent of Cedre Atlas opens up with a quite lucid cedar, but I guess it had better because cedar is literally in the name. The opening cedar note may be "hamster cage" to some people who are not as into the note as others, but overall it sets up for what otherwise seems like a nice fresh woody accord. Unfortunately, the true face of Cedre Atlas emerges moments later, which makes all the difference for "buy or not to buy" for many people, and that face is osmanthus. Before we get ahead of ourselves, there is a bit of lemon and blackcurrant here in the beginning so you know this will be at least somewhat sweet from the get-go, but once that osmanthus kicks in, the apricot-like nature of the flower takes over, to the point where Atelier Cologne actually lists the note as apricot and not osmanthus. Most mainstream-minded men typically don't like osmanthus, and it's the reason you don't see it much outside feminine-market releases; it also isn't a favorite note of mine, but can be respected when done well. Beyond that, we get vetiver, the exptected ambroxan for sustain, an Iso-E-Super "clearwood" type of a note listed as papyrus, and some hedione floating about. Wear time is average at about 7 hours and projection is also middling, but anyone knowing Atelier Cologne expects that from the inventors of "cologne absolu" (aka rebadged eau de toilettes).

Cedre Atlas is summery to my nose, but I guess it could work indoors any time of year, as a casual fresh sweet nothingness worn in boredom or forced optimism at an office. Women will like this more than men, but it is still by-the-book unisex and should be tested by anyone interested in a rare example of a woody fruity floral. Calvin Klein cK One Gold (2016) would mostly democratize the accord found here and replace the osmanthus with some kind of lactonic peach vibe and stuff in some sage, drawing it closer to more of a true unisex appeal but still having enough fruitiness to give the ostensibly "bro" male personality trope some pause. I actually like that scent and it got a lot of praise from me for being niche in character even if not exactly niche in quality. Sadly, this presents almost the identical idea, but a year before it (shedding light in hind sight on potential inspiration for CK) for a lot more money, but no greater quality to show for that money. Because of this, and the osmanthus note I wrestle with in other compositions that use it, I can't bring myself to fully enjoy this particular Atelier Cologne, but admit this might be right up someone else's alley for the same reasons I don't click with it. Since this is easily testable, I'll let you be the judge, but for my part, Atelier Cologne Cedre Atlas is a pass. Neutral.

Cedre Atlas smells nice, but it's a bit of a letdown because of the synthetic woody accord that is so common these days. The opening is cheerful with fruity accords and backed up by faux woods; this is the best part as later, the fruits do die down and that is when the woody accord intensifies and it starts to get too synthetic for my liking. It's ok, but so overdone. All in all, a nice woody/fruity fragrance.

Woody fruit - seriously. The top is dominated by cedar, clearly skewed cedar, in a matter of seconds. It reminds me of one of the Burberry perfumes I own; either Body or Brit Rhythm. A longer fruit flavor here, would have been welcome to break up so much cedar. Maybe.

The cedar here is convoluted to my nose. It's mixed with jasmine, amber, papyrus, and vetiver so much so, that it is just plain odd-smelling. Maybe, I just don't care for the Atlas cedar here. It is too "sweet" or, something... Maybe I just prefer good old Virginia cedar more.

There are a number of Atelier Colognes that devolve into plain white floral / wood combos–this is definitely one of them. That in and of itself, while not interesting, is at least not awful. But there's some weird and frankly off-putting fruit that I find to be dominating in this composition. Apricot, sure–but very synthetic. The papyrus here is the same from Philtre Ceylan, which I find to be extremely scratchy and grating. And then blackcurrant–the synthetic version of which I find to be just cloying, makes its face known. Yuck.

I'm a fan of woody fragrances, but that's most certainly in the background here. It's not cedar-focused. It's a sporty men's scent, and I'm sure it is reminiscent of any 100 designer scents you might pick up. Not worth its niche pricing, not worth considering a unique composition by any means. Like any other AC, there's a big citrus opening. It lasts for all of ten minutes. The whole fragrance lasts for maybe two hours. I hated it, but at least I didn't have to stand it for too long. (3/10)

To be fair, I almost never like fruity fragrances. Having said that, the Cedar is nice, but the fruit overpowers. It smells like something from Bath and Body Works...shower gel, shampoo, room spray. Not unique enough for thumbs up.

The simple name for this one could be Fruity Wood. The apricot note is done very nicely with the Vetiver note. Unisex fragrance that many will enjoy.