Cepes and Tuberose
Aftelier

Interesting! First, a whiff of aromatic woods and wet, bitter green “privet hedge” notes which briefly remind me of the camphoric opening of Carnal Flower, before relaxing into a damp, earthy brownness that I assume is the cèpes part of the equation. But then the scent swivels to the left into an accord that, on my skin, is 50% caramel sweetness and 50% pure Irish butter (Kerrygold, if you must know). In fact, it is so buttery that it smells like a smear of oily butter left on the back of your hand after breakfast, a sort of sweet but rancid type of smell. According to Perfume Shrine, this type of note is butyric, meaning the scent of butter. Once you’ve smelled it, you know how different this type of note is to creaminess or milkiness.

With time, the earthy nuances of the mushroom recede, and the salted caramel and butter facets take over. What surprises me about the earth, candied notes, and butter here is that this is a tuberose that smells much more like the idea of gardenia I hold in my head than the actual gardenia in Cuir de Gardenia. The rubbery and mentholated aspects of tuberose are not present at all; just the sweet, creamy Irish butter aspects and a trace of leathery bitterness underpinning it all. It is, honestly, not something I enjoy because the butter undertones make me feel a bit nauseous and over-sated.

If I could do anything to “fix” this scent (presumptuous of me, I know), I would extend the earthiness of the mushroom note, so as to retain the balance between earth and butter all the way through to the end. Myrrh often smells mushroomy and damp to me, so I tried wearing a little dab of myrrh oil on another part of my wrist, but I’m not sure that it was a successful experiment as the two never really merged. Still, if even not to my taste, Cèpes and Tuberose occupies prime position on NST’s list of 100 perfumes that everyone should sniff in their lives, and to my mind, it deserves that place. Using mushroom notes to temper the almost offensively creamy, sweet, buttery facets of tuberose is a novel approach, and it makes me wonder why it is not more commonly attempted in perfumery.

On first try, this was citrusy wood to my nose. I thought maybe I had a mislabeled sample. But now I see rosewood as a top note, it makes sense.

Tried it again today. In the tiny bottle, the cepes is strong. Mineralic, earthy. Wet on my skin, the tuberose is different than any I've tried. It provides that sensory hit, some sort of chemical reaction in the brain, without belying the source. Amazing.

I really love this scent. Not much sillage, but that's ok. I like it as a little private pick-me-up.

So, porcini mushrooms and tuberose... This is actually one of those combinations that ends up smelling very different than its parts. The tuberose contributes a vaguely floral effusiveness, but doesn't smell like tuberose. The cepes contributes a dirty, earthy quality, but doesn't smell like mushrooms. Instead, you get a completely unique, weirdly effusive dirt smell, drying down to a fairly commonplace essential oil/natural perfume base.

I suppose this is a bit of a novelty perfume, and it would take someone truly quirky to find this beautiful. I tend to enjoy perfumes that smell like "interesting dirt", but even I'm not ready to consider Cepes & Tuberose as a signature scent, but it's still very much worth a sniff, just for originality.

First sniff " We have a winner" The Gaseous of Ammoniac Perfume of Cepes is captured to a tee.
The opening has the Gassy open of the Fungus. like Pathetique this top is used to surprise and amuse provide a ammoniac balloon to highlight the heart, which in this case the Dreaded Tuberose. Trouble is that it brings the Love fllower along gently and concentrates upon the essense of the beast which is somewhat vegetal dry. This is highly contrary to the Violently Indolic overally buttered, overally sweet fruity barf inducing presentation of the time.
So this perfume, for me, comes off as a splendid indication of the tender layered beauty of the Tuberose profile.
A beautifully balanced,nuanced, artistic piece that could be presented as an Ice cream flavour savoury.
While the Boletus accord is not true, it presents with a billow, Tuberose as a Queen.

My opportunity to stop worrying and learn to Love the Tuberose.

This is a nice savory perfume, and surprisingly wearable for one that features mushrooms. The mushrooms are nicely balanced by tuberose.

Stardate 20170301:

I do not get any tuberose or rose.
Do get some cinnamon on top.
And then the heart has this weird smell which overpowers all other notes. Cepes maybe (whatever that is).
I don't like this note(maybe I am overly sensitive to it)

Pass.