Chinese Oud
Areej le Doré (2021)

Chinese Oud II

I haven't smelled the original one, so I won't be able to speak to that.
But it's incredibly powerful. Very complex and meaty, it's almost like 3 different perfumes at once. The opening is sharp with citrus and petrol, then it smokes out like barbeque, and then it mellows out to a sweet floral creamy iris with some hints of the citrus... it's such an experience 🙂

A Shalimaresque take on Oud or an Oud take on Shalimar? That is the question and how I see Chinese Oud from Areej le Dore.

Chinese Oud Part 1 ranks among my favorite ALDs, just behind Antiquity, War and Peace, and Ottoman Empire. It is an Oud heavy perfume making use of a beautiful Hainan Agarwood oil that is the very soul of the composition. The oud presents faint smoky and hay-like facets but the main trait is the leather-like quality. Brown, smooth like silk, rich, suede leather-like texture and smell is what I feel this oud is all about. Blended with creamy florals, patchouli, and vanilla to create an Oriental mirage which to my nose resembles Shalimar and Musc Ravageur, basically that lineage. However, it brings something new to the table, specifically, high-quality natural oud, and a plethora of other marvelous and natural ingredients while Adam's skill makes it feel effortless and expertly blended—smooth transitions with seamless overlaps, no edges, and no misplaced notes. The opening is so addictive as creamy aldehydes and a juicy orange blend to give the impression of an orange creamsicle cocktail—mouthwatering and unique use of aldehydes which for many can be offputing. The heart reveals a lush and creamy floral garden where specific floral accords are difficult to separate as they are blended to perfection. At the same time, the base is a combination of oud, vanilla, patchouli, and Mysore sandalwood. The vanilla gives sweetness and warmth but it is never cloying nor cheap smelling like the usual vanillin and other common substitutes. The patchouli lends a nice chocolaty touch. The Mysore has a rich buttery texture that becomes more apparent after several hours and will continue to come forth as the perfume consumes on the skin. It feels like an Oriental dream. An Oriental take on vintage French perfumery aesthetic that offers another perspective on a well-established genre.
As far as Part 2 is concerned, I feel that the composition is identical, however, the Oud used is different and it gives the perfume a different feel, especially in texture. While Part 1 feels smooth and leather-like, Part 2 feels rather woody, like hardwood, with additional bitterness and sourness in the opening as well as a far more noticeable smoky facet. Since Oud is the star and the main note in this perfume, I feel these two are quite different and I feel that way whenever I wear them. I love both, for different reasons. Part 1 for its leather-like quality, feeling like a continuation of Shalimar. Part 2 for its woody and smoky facets, feeling like a more Oriental departure to the same theme. Either way, this is one of the best ALDs to my tastes and a great example of how Oud can be so versatile when used properly and by the right nose.

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If you were one of the lucky ones to get this one, congrats. It’s a beauty. There’s not a lot of perfume that features Hainan oud. What little I’ve smelled of Oud from here is a bit spicier and less honeyed. The innovative combo of Oud, orange, and aldehydes was new to me and it works so well and gives it a golden warm sparkle. I get some vague florals, mainly rose and a touch of patchouli. This is one of my favorite of his and doesn’t resemble any others.