Chypre Fulminare
Naughton & Wilson (2023)

Naughton & Wilson Chypre Fulminare is the third release of the house (2022), the follow-up the fresh/spicy gems Gravitas (2020) and Bon Viveur (2021), the former being spicier and the latter being fresher, both excellent. Chypre Fulminare is darker than both, a chypre, yes, but dense with notes of frankincense, leather, castoreum, and pepper that add a lot of intensity to the more standard chypre/fougere-type formula of citrus, florals, and oakmoss. It’s not quite as versatile as Gravitas or Bon Viveur but is similar superb in sophistication and seems very thoroughly-conceived; it’s just a bit more apt for cooler weather and evening wear than it is for warm weather and daytime wear, in general, in my opinion. But it’s just as much of an achievement as the other two. I do like the spicier, borderline-animalic take on the chypre concept, a bit experimental and daring while still quite classy and not too over-the-top, arguably a bit restrained in its edginess.

The house’s UK website does not seem to list Chypre Fulminare but it is still sold in the US by Luckyscent, priced at $125 for 100ml, very reasonable in the current market. So perhaps it’s been discontinued? I’m not sure. Look into it, I’d say, if you haven’t yet. The current deals on the house site for Gravitas and Bon Viveur are quite exceptional, also, if you’ve not tried either of those.

8 out of 10