Collection Notes de Fond : Cèdre-Iris
Affinessence (2015)

Initially dense and front-loaded much like its sibling Musc Ambre Gris, Cedre Iris begins with a sharp, astringent, yet pleasant pale cedar, but it isn't anything earth shattering. Enjoyable? Yes. A new way of smelling cedar? Not enough for the Affinescence jaw-dropping price point.

This cedar sizzles for a while, with the juice itself glistening on my skin as it slowly evaporates, and soon comes the iris part: how novel. I think I smell an interesting aromachem here known as Orivone (orris hexanone). It's a woody, camphoraceous, oily, earthy orris material, perhaps used to bridge the cedar with orris. I quite like it, but smelling it on it own it feels a bit shallow. I am smelling it here on its own for some time.

Then comes all this other orris stuff, maybe even some orris butter, but who knows really. I'm sorry to say, but find this all ho hum and literal, like a sketch presented as a final composition, without the edges softened and the shadows deepened. I almost feel like the brand is a playground for perfumers to explore and experiment with their materials, with the end products packaged for the consumer with a $200-300 price tag.

It opens with warm cedar wood shavings, a bit medicinal, as if they've been rubbed with menthol. Then the vanilla rises followed by a hint of caramel and spice over the woody base. Something one might wear to conjure up a glamping experience. Outdoorsy for the lux set.

The opening of this is somewhat similar to Olympic Orchids Woodcut to my nose. It starts with a similar wood note that reminds me of dark roasted peanut butter. The iris (orris root) note helps take it in a different direction, and over time the orris root takes over. It's an interesting, modern-smelling, heavy fragrance, but does not work for my tastes.

The whole collection of affinescence is pricey but worth it. If you have a trained nose you will realise that the ingredients are high class fine quality . Said that cedre iris is a powdery, slightly gourmand nutty scent that departs similar to Bois farine by artisan. Soft round engaging without being edge less. In the beginning I smell iris and sandalwood , the cedar comes out only very late adding some edge to this smooth nose hugger