Colonia Leather
Acqua di Parma (2014)

Demachy's work for Acqua di Parma is overall very commendable, and Colonia Leather is one of the very best versions of the "suederal"-style leather introduced and popularized by Tuscan Leather.

An exuberant citrus-herbs bouquet leads us into this smooth, sophisticated, dry leather, helping give it a bit of EDC refreshment and establishing s connective throughline back to the Colonia namesake. But that leather--mostly stripped of the bombastic smoke and raspberry--emerges, dry and dusty, a bit like the smell of shoe polish. It's refined and sophisticated, a suit-and-tie fragrance if there ever was one, just with a bit of Italian rakishness to liven it up and keep it from getting too serious.

The only downside is its linearity, but that's a small price to pay for its achievements.

I own the brown bottle version of this and think it's a wonderful leather cologne. I actually get a blast of blackcurrant/ripe blackberry in the opening note and then it settles into a soft, slightly sweet leather. Beast projection/longevity but a superb scent for me.

I own both this and TF Tuscan Leather and they are very similar. I like both, but Tuscan Leather is a bit loud and I tend to prefer Colonia Leather for everyday wear. Well balanced, elegant, a real success.

Not sure why I've never reviewed this before, having tried many times, largely on holiday in airports, local shops and the like. But now Christmas has brought me a 180ml bottle so it should be a companion for some time - no bad thing given the replacement of this whole brown bottle series for a new set.

So, if you can imagine something a bit like Tuscan Leather and something very much related to the other old brown bottle colognes from AdP, you're pretty much there. Do those scents from AdP have some kind of common base? It certainly smells like that to me?

In any case Colonia Leather has a strange reversal going on where what you would imagine the fixatives to be appear early and the designated top notes come in later. My first impression is of smoky guaiac wood - a really good instance of this. After a couple of hours the other woods emerge and by the time of the drydown, leather, rose and dry citrus are all evident. That last phase is very much in the realms of Tuscan Leather, and although I kind of prefer the smoky opening, it's robust enough and hugely pleasant at all points. Very wearable, even versatile, and has excellent longevity. In fact, the day two experience is very good indeed. Lovely bottle and packaging makes for a genuinely niche experience.

Lovely smooth, sweet and slightly boozy leather.

CL opens with a bright, tart but full bodied citrus and quickly develops into a sweeter, smooth and slightly smokey leather, the guaiac wood being quite prominent to my nose. The combination of rose and citrus lend an almost berry-like accord. The rose appears deep red to me; sweet and rich but blended such that it is not a rose-heavy leather fragrance like, for example, Dior Homme Parfum.

Performance wise this is long lasting and pretty noticeable, so I'd go easy on the trigger.

Powerful, surprisingly pleasant stuff that has the feel of Tuscan Leather but in a softer, more pleasant delivery. While wearing, it feels like you layered Ombre Leather, which is very wearable to me, with Tuscan Leather, to achieve this very manly but soft and sweet leather scent. It's just not as abrasive as Tuscan Leather and sits between the two Tom Ford scents. Really good leather scent.

Again, this is a power scent in the performance area. Next day longevity and leaves a big trail of scent behind wherever you go.