Cuir de Nacre
Ann Gerard (2012)

Goes on a lovely ambrette iris, almost like Heeley Iris de Nuit, but dries quickly to perfume-y suede with pepper notes and white musk. Kind of screamy and not likeable on dry down for me.

This is a femmy, old fashioned, classical composition updated with a bright-light-on-an-opalescent-surface sheen. It has a big opening accord of just barely softened aldehydic white flowers giving way to a pretty, vanilla-floury (not flowery) note that softens to a more conventional, ladylike talc/iris heart, which definitely sticks the landing. The drydown has a nice touch of vanilla and fresh tobacco, gently hinting at a touch of leather rather than going for the whole animal. Fairly large sillage for an iris scent--handle with care.

I got a sample from Lucky scent when I purchased Knize ten. I didn't pay much attention as it was my honeymoon period with Knize ten. But after emptying sample of Cuir Nacre, I found myself wanting more and missing it gone. It quickly went up to my list of things I want next.
It smells like very expensive leather that provokes image of someone very privileged. This perfume makes you look expensive, elegant and poised.

Cuir de Nacre opens with a dominant powdery makeup-like iris note, as traces of underlying suede leather add early balance. As the composition transitions to the early heart the iris settles down into smooth near liquid support of the now starring soft suede that continues to grow in intensity while never overpowering the iris. During the late dry-down styrax now takes on the mantle of approximating the leather while adding a subtle spicy facet, as the iris now combines with slightly sweet sandalwood and near transparent clean white musk for added weight. Projection is below average and longevity average at 8-9 hours on skin.

Iris is not a note I am fond of so when it appeared as powdery makeup in relative strength early I feared the composition would not impress... In short, I was wrong. Duchaufour has a knack for finding incredible balance in his compositions, and Cuir de Nacre is no exception. He uses just enough of the suede early-on to counter the powder of the iris, with the two almost seeming as one by the time the suede grows into the star during the mid-section. The two aspects blend so perfectly that they engender the completely believable effect of smooth liquid suede. By the time the composition starts to wind down the transition to the mild spiced leathery styrax, white musk and sandalwood trio is extremely polished and controlled. The only potential negatives are in the performance department as the composition is just slightly more than a skin scent; and for a perfume billed as an extrait de parfum concentration Cuir de Nacre appears more on the weaker side of the potency spectrum. The bottom line is the $165 per 60ml bottle Cuir de Nacre is yet another fine addition to Duchaufour's already lengthy resume, earning an "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation. This one is an absolutely gorgeous unisex floral suede leather!

Opalescent Suede At last edition of Esxence I had he chance to meet Ann Gérard and test the beautiful trio of fragrances Bertrand Duchaufor composed for her. Cuir de Nacre starts with a perfectly recognizable quote of another BD creation featuring leather, La Traversée du Bosphore- thrilling, for people like myself who love quotes! It lasts only few seconds, then the fragrance veers to drier, more airy and bitter territories. The leather note- more suede than cured leather- is laced with flowers- iris, but also a transparent, fresh, haunting note that I associate to lemon flowers, or magnolia (none of them is listed, anyway). The drydown is very soft spoken, almost evanescent, with a bittersweet vanilla note. A beautiful fragrance, on the whole, maybe not very original and with a modest sillage- it soon turns in a skin scent, rather appropriate though to Ann Gérard idea- perfume as a jewel you wear for yourself, very close to your skin.