Cuoio tartaro / Tartar Leather
AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

This scent lasts for 10 hours. I don't have a basis of comparison other than “what I know.....”


I'm a giant Santa Maria novella fan. The opening of this is SMN's Potpourri... it's almost a clone, but then it changes into leather over a few minutes... and SMN's Muschio.... but it's different, too. Throughout the day, this “leather” morphs into a slightly “macey leather.. “ (think Santa Maria novella's Mariesciela, but way toned down). There's zero synthetic qualities in this. This House is absolutely amazing and it's something special. That said, it's not for everyone. People that like Chanel Bleu (absolute garbage) and other “modern” scents won't appreciate this for what it is. I'm stunned this fragrance smells beautiful 10 hours later, even if faint. I'd love to sample more of their scents but they're not cheap.... a small bottle is 150$.... I'm hoping their prices increase, personally. I also hope they never become popular. I'm inclined to purchase all of the line over time.

Cuoio Tartaro opens with a beautiful, sharp accord of balsamic, dense, clean vetiver notes blended with a mossy/earthy side with a slight aniseed touch, on a subtle musky castoreum base, initially quite thin and cozy, almost unpalpable, but with a specific and perceivable organic stickiness. I also detect other woods like perhaps cedar, a leaf of tobacco, and overall, a remarkable and substantial lymphatic feel of humidity, which may be due to a hay note (which in turn links to the mossy-aniseed accord). My nose, as most of fragrance enthusiasts' noses, is well used to synthetic scents (partially, or mostly), so I instantly felt all the "naturality" of this fragrance, which lies in a palpable transparency, a freshness, a clarity of all the notes, even if the mood is more of a "shady" woody/musky scent, it is in fact at the same time bright and vibrant. The reference to "tartars" is not out of place, since there is a spicy vibe which emerges more and more clearly as minutes pass, and that brings in a mystic feel which blends with the "barbaric" animalic base. This spicy accord which comes in is a beautiful, "culinary" herbal/spicy blend, I detect cumin and perhaps a microscopic hint of aromatic herbs like oregano. A subtle ginger note emerges too, together with a delicate, ethereal floral note, really subtle, which softens the woody-animalic general austerity and the overall meditative mood. The depiction of leather is achieved brilliantly by a "mosaic" of suggestions, there is no tricks, no safraleine/norlimbanol rubbery smell which delivers a more common "leather note"... basically here it's rather an evocation of the "feel" of leather, that comes from a smart blend of vetiver, woods, spices, mossy notes and that subtle animalic base. It can therefore disappoint you, if your were looking for an ordinary, easy, "shouted", artificial leather note, but if you get the mood and the point, then it's a stunning fragrance, honest and sensitive, perhaps enigmatic, but incredibily fascinating. Overall this is a terrific aromatic scent, cozy, mellow, really pleasant, also much elegant, genuine, wearable by anyone. It eventually dries progressively on the drydown, coming closer to a leather idea, still keeping several beautiful nuances – balsamic, woody-aromatic, spicy, mossy, with a sweet/ambery note too for a while. A fascinating fragrance to be enjoyed "per se", not a monster scent in terms of projection and sillage – rather a cozy, pleasant experience to enjoy by yourself, a naturality which implies the patience and the ability to enjoy something closer to skin, something more intimate and elusive. Rather linear as regards of the evolution, and with a delicate but fairly long persistence. This is my first encounter with AbdesSalaam creations and I am totally intrigued, can't wait for the future ones.

8,5-9/10

I've been craving to explore and review the AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo's creations for long and finally I've the opportunity to approach Cuoio Tartaro by Dominique Dubrana as the first of the line I have the pleasure to test. Well, this is one of the most subtle and refined soft leather rendition around and I absolutely agree with the Diamondflame's consideration below. The leather, yet present, is almost evanescent and disguised, this is more properly a vetiver scent than a leather one indeed. The opening is for a while almost liquorous because of the spicy and green/herbal light seasoned woods aroma. After few instants I catch exotic vetiver (ylang-ylang yet?) and hints of almost soapy amber/suede. I detect immediately later sweet woods, malt (at least in effect), aromatic patterns, mild spices and musk while a soft and "liquid" leather keeps lifting up almost surrounded by salty/ozonic molecules (also the vetiver itself provides this effect, in my opinion). It renders out a really unusual, almost weird "salty/sweet leather" effect. The leather is never stout, dirty or properly realistic, we don't have a real cuoio effect outside. The yet included animalic patterns are absolutely fluidy and smooth, really well calibrated, nothing beastly, sweaty or mouldy despite a sort of pheromonal listed graft. Faint camphor provides just a vague musky ambience anyway more urban than seriously woodsy. I detect still vetiver for sure in the dry down plus subtle leather, spices and musk. The final outcome is appealing and stimulating the senses with its light consistency and the subtle level of woody/leathery/spicy refinement. Longevity and projection are barely in the average.

Leather is probably one of the most challenging notes to recreate in perfumery, and with an all-natural palette the task is close to insurmountable save for the talented few. Thankfully, Dubrana or Salaam as he prefers to be known as, is one such individual.

Perhaps in deference to its name - TARTAR LEATHER, I somehow expected potent animalics such as civet and castoreum to feature prominently. Well, I was wrong. I can't smell them in here. Even Dior's Leather Oud smells more animalic. Credit to Salaam's skillful blending, it will probably take a bloodhound to sniff those notes out individually if they do even exist. While there is indeed a hint of butter-smooth soft leather, it comes and goes, a lingering camphoraceous gasoline-like top note keeping the leather under wraps, and close to the skin. But when the leather does appear...oh my...it smells rich! With nuances of woods and as drydown beckons, vetiver. Definitely one of the most gorgeous wearable leather fragrances I've had the privilege to try. I'm issuing an FBW ALERT on this one.

First impression is of the rich strength of this perfume. I get a blast of spices and ... what? Something strong and pungent, I don't know what to call it, but it dominates the opening. Then it settles into a rich resin of some type, a very rich, pungent smell. Honestly, I have no idea what I am smelling here, it is different and delicious. My wife suggested it was patchouli. I can't tell, but I like it. It mellows slowly and gradually, some woods emerge and the spices continue. Lasts well. I don't think the name really gives any clues, it doesn't smell much like leather or the smelly Tartars. I don't know exactly what it is and have trouble describing it, so I would just say it is a strong, mysterious perfume inspired by the middle east.

TL opens with a sweet, smokey leather. I am a fan of leather, but usually not attracted to smokiness, however, I like their combined effect here. I wish the personality of the top notes lingered longer because they are excellent and can compete with the best leather fragrances on the market. There is a family resemblance to Hindu Kush in the dry down. As with most of Profumo's fragrances, a natural gentleness lingers. I highly recommend your sampling a variety of creations from this house.