Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition
Ajmal (2008)

Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition is my first introduction into Ajmal's repute that has garnered secretive, noteworthy fame on Basenotes. Our Middle Eastern and Indian friends speak of the house's offerings–excellent attars, a few poorly formulated alcohol-based fragrances, some entirely economic clones, a select number of potent, Arabic-styled perfumery gems. The perfume I'm reviewing falls into the latter category.

Purchased on Ebay from an Omani seller for a hefty sum of 140 dollars for 30ml, Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition is an oud affair of the petrol, oak barrel variety. While reviews on other sites either exult or shrink from its supposed barnyard quality, I don't get much funk. It's neither fecal nor cheesy nor fermented. Brand new tires and alcohol fill the nose upon first spray and hang in the air with a kind of density only equaled by rich, resinous, amber-y orientals. To my delight, instead of vanilla's pedestrianism or sandalwood's familiarity, a primordial concoction of wood rot, fossil fuels, and marshland give the sensation that I've just atomized an attar.

Whether synthetic or natural or more likely some brilliant combination of the two, this is the closest alcohol-based perfume I've smelled that approximates real oud oil. Its facets are similar to Xerjoff's Oud Stars: Al-Khatt, except that equally pricey offering is cheesier and sweeter, undergirded by vanilla and topped off by jasmine. Dahn Oudh Al Shams reminds me of a Borneo oil from my collection because of its jammy-ness that lacks the fruit nuances of fig or date that's typically associated with some oud oils.

Unfortunately, I don't get the greatest projection. Perhaps for better, the fragrance calms down around the hour mark and dries down to a woodier representation that still maintains its initial notes. My sense is that while the “ouddict” in me would prefer a powerhouse exulting its carnival-like complexity, for daily wear and public use, its dry down is much more appropriate, since a quieter intensity of its notes will exude from the skin in a more natural and attractive way that will have someone who hugs you or whispers in your ear guessing at what exactly it is they're smelling.

The high price and small bottle have me rationing my sprays much in the same way I cherish and space apart the days I apply my 3ml oud oils. One spray of Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition and then two of Dior's Leather Oud or Oud Ispahan (plus a swipe of oud oil or Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's Taif Rose attar) fattens the olfactory range I'm working within and makes everyone weak in the knees.

Dahn Al Oudh Al Shams Special Edition by Ajmal.
A truly awesome and extreme oud of which only a mere touch is required in order to savour this potent perfume. This one is not for the faint hearted; so if you are a novice to oud or perhaps prefer the very soft, light and sweetened offerings that have flushed through more western discernment in recent years ... do be warned.

Literally striking - going straight to the centre of one's head, searching out the tumaceous parts of the brain that have lain dormant, this can be deemed quite exquisite. Depending on preferences and perceptions along with personal chemistry, some may find this Special Edition quite vellicating and sharp - giving a sensation of being dragged by the nose through an unbridled olfactory, roller-coaster ride. Yet to others this deep and rich aroma could be instant bliss. If you are feeling adventurous and wish to temper this wonderful redolence, anything is possible. Do add a touch of this heady scent to your favorite Taif Rose, Amber, Sandalwood or Incense - even a misting of vanilla, patchouli or honey. Find what suits you. Layer, explore and make it your own