Dark Vanilla
Montale (2020)

A dark well balanced (not overly sweet or claustrophobic) lethery/oudish vanilla from Montale which is a close relative with scents a la Mancera Vanilla Black (or several La Maison de la Vanille vanillas as Vanille Noir du Mexique) but while the Mancera's vanilla is more properly fruity in the top (vaguely a la Chopard Casmir or Parah Woman) Montale Dark Vanilla is quite spicy, initially aromatic (green spices?), woody-resinous and with a plain musky lethery final trail turning out kind of smoother and more wearable. I love the intial contrast between sultry notes (vanilla, oudh, dark smoky leather) and fresh aromatic patterns (cardamom, saffron, possibly juniper berries?). Unfortunately I tend to suffer the landmark Montale's synth cambodian oud which makes me to perceive these fragrances kind of overly sultry or sort of gassy-rubbery-medicinal-pencil-shavings along the way. In this case the oudish presence hampers the balance and makes the aroma too much woody for my full pleasure. There is something vaguely gourmandish probably provided by fruits, tasty spices and vanilla while the "rubber" is vaguely smoky and incensey providing a final dark leather-vanilla vibe. The juice is really dark, velvety and kind of unisex but mostly winking to the feminine side of the pitch. This fragrance fits definitely for down town weekend cold nights out around and for clubbing.

Montale describes Dark vanilla "with notes of vanilla, spices and amber, sandalwood, leather and oud wood".

Right from the beginning, I get a deep and acrid note that could be described as an intense woody, oud or leather, or a mix of all three with some soapy aspects. It's similar to the most dominant note I get from Arabians by Montale.

There is vanilla too, without much sweetness, somwhere under the deep murky oudy leather layers. Overall the fragrance is dry, warm and overwhelming. It has nothing in common with the sweet and gourmand vanilla fragrances from Montale like Vanille absolu and sweet vanilla.

Where the spices, sandalwood and amber went, I have no idea. Perhaps they are hiding somewhere underneath the massive dose whatever aromas that make up the wood/oud/leather note.

The sillage is enormous, a few sprays is enough. In summer with temperatures at around 30C/90F, a single spray is enough for my nose, and the fragrance keeps projecting for hours, which is a feat in itself. Longevity is equally notable, it could easily last two days and is completely linear.

The main reason Dark vanilla disagrees with me, is that pungent oudy leather note that never goes away. When I get whiffs of it through the day, it reminds me of unwashed and sweaty body odor combined with stuffy second-hand furniture store interiors. This note seems to be a signature in many of Montale's creations, as I get similar note from Arabians and oud station. If you like that signature woody note, you will likely love Dark vanilla. As for me, I'm happy I went with a travel size!

One aspect of Montale's style that I particularly admire is the tendency in a number of the house's offerings to ring dark and sludgy perfume notes with a hallelujah chorus of zingier, fresher ones. The contrast and blending of light and shade makes for dynamic, often intriguing perfumes. Here we have Dark Vanilla, which, true to its name, opens with a dense and fudgy vanilla chord, sweetish and with patchouli depths to it. But almost immediately after comes the chaser of spices (cardamom, saffron, cinnamon to my nose) delivered in a mouth-freshener style, new shoe leather and a zigzagging, volatile ‘oud' note that prevents the dark vanilla from getting too introspective and dour. Doesn't quite gel in the later stages where it turns more towards a gassy leather with the vanilla and oud retreating substantially.