Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu
Bulgari (2015)

Eau Parfumee au The Bleu is an innovative approach to cool and fresh. Using the ionones of violet and irones of iris, sheered out with aqueous, herbal lavender and a noticeable perillaldehyde (shiso), it has a durability that belies its softness. The tea accord that is at its core feels like an iced tea, the aroma almost like the taste of tannins, green and slightly astringent. I must admit, it reminds me somewhat of the aroma of the Lipton ice tea powder mix that was popular back in the 80s.

Coumarin and an understated orris powder sensation surfaces over time, a sweet talc after the watery tones and iced tea ease. There are even echoes of L'Heure Bleue and Caron Aimez-Moi in its development, with their muted hues somehow made lighter and more effervescent, suitable for warmer weather. Overall, au The Bleu has a relaxing, tonic quality that would appeal to those who are drawn to fragrances with an aromatherapeutic sensibility. For me, it's a fulfilling wear and one of those that is even suited for "over spraying."

A combination of Heeley Iris de Nuit, Prada Infusion d’Iris and Lempicka Blanc. There’s the lovely dry ozonic iris like Iris Nuit but with the sweetness of Blanc and IdI. I get fresh airy sillage. It fades to not much about mid day, like most of the Bvlgari Tea scents, but just as nice as my beloved Au The Rouge, yet very different. I don’t get a lot of lavender, but there is a touch of bergamot-ish something that I love less. Sometimes the bergamot can verge onto bug spray, but overall this is a winner for hotter weather. Very nice.

About 20 years ago Guerlain released a beautiful Aqua Allegoria, Lavande Velours, based around an accord of lavender and violet. I find The Bleu to be Bulgari's take on the same general theme, which is a good one, and it is sleek and restrained where the Guerlain was more plush and euphoric, as you'd expect.

As much as this may seem to be an appealing hot weather frag, I find that it falls apart on a really hot day and leaves you with only a thin and persistent synthetic-smelling musk/iris drydown that's not unlike Infusion D'Iris. That is the aspect I like least about The Bleu, so I wear it when it's less than 90 degrees out in order to enjoy the other notes.

It opens with more (fresh) juicy ginger than I expected, and that, combined with the especially fine texture of the spray mist, make it a real pleasure to reapply often. And reapplication is necessary to get a full experience of it again after a couple of hours, though the drydown lasts, close to the skin, for the better part of the day.

Lilac Irises by Claude Monet

If someone were to ask me to describe Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu, I would tell them that it is a starched iris and orange blossom with a heavy hit of spices and tea. The first opening of Bleu is hard-hitting and even abrasive, but to me, it is one of the most gorgeous orange blossom compositions I have ever sniffed. The juxtaposition of the suntan lotion with intense chai spices is intriguing. Typically, spiced tea accords are paired with sweet, creamy vanilla, so the aforementioned combination is rather unexpected. The base of the fragrance is similar to the clean, starched iris found in Infusion d'Iris by Prada, but the effect is almost hot and dry instead of cold and metallic. Overall, I am impressed by the Bulgari Eau Parfumée line and would recommend it as an outstanding example of tea-based fragrances; although, I would wear Bleu while in the mood for iris or orange blossom, not tea. Note: there is definitely a lavender accord kicking around, but I typically have a tough time picking out lavender–it appears and disappears, darting in and out of the cloud of iris and white musk.

4/5