Encre Noire à l'Extrême
Lalique (2015)

Encre Noir A L' Extreme, launched in the course of 2015 in its first formulation and performed for Lalique by the talented and super "busy" (for many many brands as Ysl and others) Nathalie Lorson, is a woodsy resinous (elemi-frankincense) wild and dark take on a cypress-vetiver/patchouli's main accord. While the original Encre Noir was an "inky" darkly urban, clean, silently metallic and minimalistic take on a cold "purified" note of dominant vetiver the A L'Extreme version is its wild "coming from countryside/forests cousin" (definitely smoky, earthy, bonfire, dank, damp, musty, gothic and slightly sweeter). Opening is something tremendously woodsy, resinous, damp, vaguely mineral/rubbery, apparently (I'd say ostensibly) liquorous and dusty in part a la Gucci Guilty Absolute 2017 but without the Absolute's leathery feel which is in here mostly "replaced" by a super resinous and kind of "chocolatey" accord of pine resin, elemi, rootyness and burnt frankincense. This initial/central stage is quite compelling and significantly different from the original Encre Noir's introducing drier kind of "muffled" pungent blast. It deflects centrally (and just for a part of the run) towards an aroma of smoky frankincense, balsamic resins and burnt woods which is particularly humid and crude. Bergamot (another key element) provides throughout a vague lemony-bitter-acidic vibe, a general hesperidic structure and elegance (as a counterpart for the widespread otherwise not homogeneous and overly georgic woodsy dampness). On this stage the aroma smells about damp earth, vague grassy nuances, dark/cold and appalling forest, woodsy earthiness and aromatic hints. The main rooty accord of damp vetiver and earthy patchouli is still just kind of peeping out but ready to gradually emerge in a more catalyst and heady way. Once it fully emerges the resinous smoky richness gradually fades (but not completely) as it dries down and becomes more of an inky vetiver/patchouli scent which, despite less resinous, is anyway still damp, "swampy", dirty and balsamic like a sort of dirty-swampy-moldy-mineral Terre d'Hermes (scents as Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra or L'Erbolario Ginepro Nero jump more than vaguely on mind as well for similar characteristics). This final damp rootiness (slightly conjuring the cleaner Chanel Sycomore in its moody-grey vetiver's presence) emerges in all its wild, hesperidic and vegetal kind of elegance, conjugating a dominant forest-like sort of untamed nature with a more civilized and apologetical virile spark of urban elegance. A L'Extreme version is a more dramatic Encre Noir's rendition. It is finally a struggling fragrance, melancholic, cold and funereal a la Mazzolari Lui. It retains something old-school (slightly powdery) leather/chypré in its dna (a la Aramis classic or Dunhill Blend 30). A tad of milder benzoin sweetens just a tad the general dampness. Performances are on the average on my skin. A L'Extreme is a poignant fragrance in its rainy universe of birch trees and stormy grey forests. A fragrance for solitary spirits and haunting souls.

I’ve Had Encre Noire in my collection for a long time and use it as a fall/winter/evening scent. With spring coming up I wanted to start using something different and after using a sample of Terre D’hermes, I decided to buy a whole bottle. Shortly afterwards I read in a review somewhere that Encre Noire Sport is quite similar to Terre D’hermes, so when I found it at a very low price I went ahead and ordered it. At the same shop I found Encre Noire A L’Extreme at the same low price (quite a bit lower than the original Encre Noire) and thought it could be a good alternative for the original in some situations.

As I mentioned, I Wear Encre Noire a lot in the winter, but I’ve recently worn it a lot less, getting used to other scents for spring time and (hopefully) warmer weather. This also has the benefit that I don’t think I’ve gone as noseblind to the notes in Encre Noire as I could have.

Today I’ve been testing Encre Noire A L’Extreme with The Original Encre Noire:

If Encre Noire Sport dials up the citrus and fresh spiciness of the original, A L’Extreme dials those notes way down, leaving only the tiniest hint of fresh spice when it dries down. Initially I thought A L’Extreme was too much, overwhelming in its dry woodiness and incense but after a minute or two the subtle notes of citrus and greens break through ever so slightly. And there it stays for hours (on me at least). I’ll have to try A L’Extreme out some more before I can say if it will replace the original in my winter rotation, but I doubt it I think they’re different enough to both have a place in the rotation, but only for a few more weeks - they’re definitely best suited for winter, in my opinion.

Out of the gate, what I mainly smell is vetiver essential oil. That same thick resinous earthy smell you get from opening a bottle of quality essential oil. That is the dominant note for a good 30 minutes before the rest of the notes really can be appreciated. Incense plays in the background with the feel of a light end aromatic that has a slightly searing quality about it. After about an hour the fragrance hits its finale and settles into a patchouli sandalwood fragrance with a dominant earthy vetiver accord. Very well blended. A well mixed and controlled execution of oils that can be abrasive if left to their own merits. Especially in a product that’s not using top tier fragrance oils due to cost control. This fragrance doesn’t light any fire in me but is enjoyable enough. Would be a perfect compliment to being suited up and out for the evening, as it has a touch of class about it and wears close as it’s an eau de parfum. Anyone who loves vetiver essential oil will enjoy this fragrance, and perhaps even love it. At $30, it’s a good buy and arguably more interesting than fragrances far more expensive.

Dirty English takes off the biker leather and sits down by the hearth fire. Definitely has a bit of old school church/temple about it with the dry wood and resins combo. Feels like it should be thick, tarry, and cloying but it disperses well so the notes separate enough off of skin. I don't see this getting much use in the Summertime unless I'm camping but it's performing great in Winter and has a very comfy feel about it. A welcome addition to my family.

Warm dry, resinous, earthy, inviting, enveloping darkness.

There is just enough sweetness here to stop the darkness from being overwhelming, and just enough cypress and incense to make the darkness comforting.

Longevity is excellent, projection is moderate, and the flacon is very cool.

If this is too dark for you, try something similar with more citrus like Terre d'Hermès or Declaration by Cartier.

A beautiful fragrance.

9/10

Vetiver, vetiver, more vetiver, earthy grass vetiver and that's it. If you like earthy powerful vetiver, this if for you. I can't get over the earthiness of this and would have love something lighter to balance this out