eo02
Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

As I said per EO 01, the secret behind Egon Oelkers creations for Biehl is to find in his mastery and skills. EO 02 is quite a classic woody oriental, with a grapefruit / citrus opening that evolves into a rich, woody and sweet vanillia, amber and cedar drydown (in this phase I also still get grapefruit). You could think this sounds like something that has been played many many times, and you're right! But just try for a moment to think about Beethoven's 5th Symphony conducted by a practicing orchestra conductor and now think about the same symphony conducted by Herbert Von Karajan? Do you see the point? The music and notes are still the same, but what really makes the difference is execution! Brilliant work.

This is a tough one to describe. Looking at its notes you might think your nose would be assaulted from all directions. It turns out to be a quiet fragrance with an amber or ambergris dominance. I usually associate that smell with warmth but this slightly cool but still sweet. Very nice scent but not distinctive enough for me to buy. This one has the widest differential between sillage(poor) and longevity(excellent) that I have ever put on.

The Biehl line-up is a real mixed bag, from what I can tell. Some don't work at all for me, but this one really does. EO02 is a rich, unctuous melange of spice and wood that sits pretty close to the skin. It doesn't shout, but hums a haunting tune that beckons and compels one deeper into the simmering forest.

I've smelled attempts at this kind of citrus / green opening accord in a few fragrances: None of those attempts come anywhere near the quality and beauty of this one… it's consummately better than anything of its nature that I have tried. On my skin the citrus (grapefruit / bergamot) is muted and the green (galbanum / cilantro with a cardamom) is silken smooth. It doesn't seem either citrus or green and yet it can be recognized as both: conspicuously elegant and attractive. The accord picks up the jasmine and rose as soon as the citrus elements have exited from the opening and the subsequent heart accord is the kind that I call “texture” because the floral and woody elements integrate themselves seamlessly into the original green texture to form a heart accord that is a bit reminiscent of Gucci Envy EDP or an extra smooth, extra lustrous Nemo… it's lovely, semi-gourmand, and entirely unisex… soft, but with a full olfactory spectrum. The base is a refined and rich cedar, sandalwood, and patchouli in an amber / vanilla sweetness. Long lasting biehl parfumkunstwerke eoO2 is quietly lush, sophisticated, and brilliant.

I do not get much projection from this but what I do smell is a very nice woody oriental with solid sweetness and spices note. The alphabet soup list of accords is overwhelming and the fragrance itself becomes a complex obstacle course and it feels like you're wearing a jigsaw puzzle. Very interesting to say the least.

EO 02 is a zippy perfume from the biehl parfumkunstwerke line which would appeal someone (male or female) who enjoys light, unisex herbal fragrances with a twist. At first, it started off a little unpromisingly with a strong, perfumey, sharp green, almost generic “man's fragrance” smell. But – it just needed time! Once it settled onto my skin, I became entranced. The thyme note was unexpected but a very intriguing addition to the composition, especially when coupled with fir and sandalwood in the middle notes. Rose and jasmine eventually appeared in the base which made it wearable for a female but still, it would be great to smell this on a man. I didn't catch much of the base notes listed below- maybe a little patchouli if I really tried. Which is just as well since I am not much of a fan of heavy oriental perfumes. Overall, EO 02 was refreshing and I very much enjoyed it. Well done, Egon Oelkers! Here are the notes, courtesy of The Perfumed Court: Top: bergamot, grapefruit, galbanum, cardamom, coriander, Middle: thyme, davana, fir, rose, jasmine, carnation, Base: atlas cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, incense, vanilla, cinnamon, amber.