Essence de Patchouli
Alyssa Ashley (2009)

Geranium, Rose, Orris Root, Patchouli, Gaiac Wood, Cedar, Coumarin, Labdanum, Vanilla, Musk.

There's a slightly different twist on Alyssa Ashley's rendition of Patchouli than others of this genre I have smelled. The ratio of Orris, Coumarin and Geranium give it that something "extra and different" to set it apart. It's just enough to distance itself from the rest of the pack.

The initial application makes you realize that this is Patch, but rendered sideways. Mrs. Aromi, in her infinite fragrance wisdom, declared it to smell like.......(with furrowed brows) "In your face.......powerful.......STUFF"...........As usual, my better half dislikes it immensely...........and that means I'll probably either like it or love it. In this case however, I lean toward non-chalant "like" with "love" far away over the horizon.

Essence de Patchouli is patch accented with balsamic, floral and woody tones that coexist with its inherent earthiness. This is neither feminine or masculine and rides the rail of "shared" rather effortlessly. I detect a spicy, latex quality within the top and heart accords that's a bit quirky, but certainly not off putting. It's actually what gives Essence some of its personality.

The Vanilla and Musk, listed in the base, incrementally gain momentum as the wearing ensues. On my skin, they never overtake the composition and it's this that disallows Essence from leaning too far feminine. The balance of notes is well done, as is the overall performance. I'll never love this particular rendition of patchouli, but I do like it and recognize a good release.

Sillage is semi strong, but reigns itself in within 10 minutes. Longevity is approximately 5 hours on me. Thumbs up from Aromi for Alyssa Ashley's Essence de Patchouli and a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.

On my skin Alyssa Ashley Essence de Patchouli is absolutely identical to Perris Montecarlo Essence de Patchouli, namely a slightly (initially) herbal/sharply floral and finally powdery/talky/eliotropic and soapy amber-iris with a patchouli backbone, powdery woods, musks and a touch of vanilla. Look at my full review of the latter.

A sweetish patchouli (though some of the vegetal aspects are in the background) coupled with dark vanilla and a woodsy base makes a suitably grown up combination. What starts as a dusting of powder soon morphs into a plasticky-lipsticky note rounding things out. Appealing though that may be, Essence de Patchouli remains firmly stranded in the mid-regions of the scale of perfume genius: a decent idea with alright execution of the kind which fans usually support with ‘good at this price' noises.