Fallen Leaves
Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Fallen Leaves delivers on the promise of autumnal warmth, with the mix of cedar, incense, and patchouli along with hops and orris evoking the comfort of a gently crackling fireplace. The longevity is excellent, and the quality of the scent itself is undeniable. While I initially thought the sillage slightly weak, the longer I wore Fallen Leaves, the more it blossomed forth. I imagine in greater heat, the sillage would be as impressive as the longevity.

Regarding the assertion of an "unnatural constraint on creativity" imposed by natural perfumery, I'll say here what I've said elsewhere: art loves limitations. Indeed, it requires them. All creative choices—of materials, process, market, or anything else—constitute a constraint, none being more natural than, nor an invalidation of, any other. Zworykina has written extensively and intelligently about her choices, and about natural perfumery in general, but what really matters is the work. By that, my nose is convinced.

This is a nice, fall scent. The myrrh permeates very strongly at first, giving way to a warm, resinous base. Not the scent of leaves specifically, but fitting for the time of year.

I sampled half a dozen of the Zworykina perfumes, having read an approving review by Luca Turin. This was the one I could relate to the most.

Like Turin I am not normally enthusiastic about natural perfumes as they arguably impose an unnatural constraint on creativity. However, like him I feel they should be supported and encouraged along with home make cake and home brewed beer.

Fallen leaves does not smell precisely like fallen leaves; for some thoughts on how a more accurate rendering might may be attempted see the basenotes discussion. Without GCMS facilities it is probably very difficult. However, the Zworykina product does go some way towards meeting the concept in the abstract.

Smelling it blind (to avoid bias) I had the impression of a sophisticated lavender composition, like the mens fragrances of years ago. Probably with some lavender absolute, I thought. Reading the ingredient list I noted there is no lavender, though tonka is mentioned, which is possibly where the overlap occurred. The immortelle comes through nicely in the drydown, after a couple of days.

Overall, Fallen Leaves is a smooth and harmonious fragrance and pleasing to the senses, so I have given it the thumbs up. I remain to be convinced about all-natural perfumery, though.