Gold Watan
Anfas (2019)

First of all, there are two minimally different varieties of Watan by Anfas: Watan, and Gold Watan. The bottle of Watan is clear in color (and of a magnificent shape and heaviness), and the bottle of Gold Watan is ornately gilded or painted in different gold hues and shapes. I have compared the two pretty extensively, through a store testing and a sample of Watan, and a decant of Watan Gold. For me, Watan is preferable: I find that it is milder on a first spray, but it then blooms with more potency, a sequence which is subtly reversed with Gold Watan. Mostly though, Gold Watan is to my nose a bit more masculine, for reasons I have trouble identifying, except for a slightly rough quality. This is why I chose to purchase Watan, and I am very happy with my choice: but the difference is subtle. This 2019 fragrance by Asim Al Qassim is top heavy with Agarwood and Labdanum: there is a delectably deep whiff of non-synthetic oud on the opening, with a sweetness that comes from the stink, if you will forgive the expression. The scent is non-linear, a shape shifter. A woody, leathery, toasty, earthy, peppery warmth emerges, apparently from Nagarmotha, with a slight hint of cinnamon bark. It continues to hit ever more dulcet notes, and there is a third phase that I don't love because it smells more classically gourmand. But subsequently, the sweetness fades and the oud is unveiled again. The gourmand quality is often described as being caramelly, but it is more organic, spicy, and strange than caramel. One of the few gourmands I want to keep smelling: there is so much to smell! I have worn this to the gym and enjoyed slight whiffs of this complicated sweetness, which I hope means that this will also be pretty wearable in summer.

No ratings yet ? Let me be first then. This is exoticism at its finest, this is regality in a bottle, an exceptional middle eastern gem made from the passionate perfumer Asim Al Qassim. Overall, an exquisite concoction. If you like Oud (the easy going, fruity kind of oud) and gourmand fragrances, this is for you.