Hadrien Absolu
Goutal

Tonight I'm doing a side by side comparison of:

[b]Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien EDT[/b]
[b]Category:[/b] Hybrid of 2 and 3 (EDC/Bright Citrus)
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: need to test again

and

[b]Eau d'Hadrien EDP/Absolu[/b].
[b]Category:[/b] Hybrid of 2 and 3 (EDC/Bright Citrus)
[b]Rating[/b]: 5/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: need to test again


I have a story about this fragrance that is perhaps for another time, but perhaps relevant. On my honeymoon in Paris, I stayed at a hotel that used Eau d'Hadrien soap. While there I acquired a serious case of food poisoning that left me very dehydrated. During this time I attempted a bath, but had to get back out and leave the room because of the offensive floral soap. It made me sick just to be in the same room with it. Fast forward some years and imagine my surprise when I discover that Eau d'Hadrien is a lightweight, inoffensive lemon that after all these years I had misremembered (and misperceived while ill) as a foul floral.

I actually really enjoy this now. Definitely a contender. The EDT and EDP are very similar, but for an opaqueness in the EDP that isn't present in the EDT, plus a slight rotting citrus warmth from the EDP. Usually an EDT girl, I'm surprised to be preferring the EDP. Not sure it's really any stronger or longer-lasting, but it's definitely got a different texture.

This is now marketed as "Eau D'Hadrien Eau de Parfum".
I know and love the original. To me, it truly conjures up an image of a Tuscan countryside, or a garrigue-style chord of citrus and scrubby herbs and bracing conifers. I was looking forward to a more intense or developed version of that.
What I found was a very pleasant lemon scent. The lemon notes are superb: brighter, zestier, more energetic than in the original. Also commendable is the length of time these notes sustain. Gradually they develop a slightly soapy aspect which is OK, and the scent becomes very smooth.
But where is the utterly distinctive cypress note of the original? That note makes the original quite unique, there is nothing else like it on the market. It is a haunting note, woody, dusky and yet a bit like celery leaf (in a good way). I don't get that here.
To smooth out the elements is not, in my opinion, a compelling development.
Nothing wrong with this scent, but not an improvement over the original, in my opinion.

My review for the Masculine bottling of Hadrien Absolu...

Sharp, vibrant and vivid notes of beautiful lemons (gorgeous Amalfi Lemons) combine in the top with grapefruit, and a squeeze of mandarin orange. This gets every part of the lemon - from the squeezed juice to the fleshy pulp to the bitter rind (just wonderful)! A green note is detected on top - herbal in nature and wonderful (it actually stays and evolves with the citrus maintaining its crisp freshness with a greenness underneath). Whoever thinks this is too bitter - I totally disagree. It is citric in nature, but no sour notes that are off-putting whatsoever or anything even remotely related to cleaning products (please!) This is extremely natural smelling - the house of Annick Goutal uses very high-quality ingredients and it shows here incredibly!

This is for people who have a passion for such wonderful classic citrus scents in the realm of Acqua di Parma, Eau Sauvage and more recently, Monsieur Balmain)...but in EdP strength and added depth of wonderful cypress, light ylang-ylang and a touch of aldehydes. A wonderful, niche-quality citrus of depth, but retaining a sparkle...brilliant!

There is a clear distinction between this bottling and the original, Eau d'Hadrien. I have tested and worn Eau d'Hadrien and love it - as many times as I've contemplated a full-bottle purchase, it just didn't happen. By the time I made my decision "firm"...the scent had faded and I felt like I had to let go of my lover's hand. It was a difficult choice to restrain myself, as I consider all Goutal bottlings to be absolute olfactory art.

When I heard about Hadrien Absolu, I pondered the thought and then started looking for a bottle (knowing how much I adored the scent of Eau d'Hadrien on its own merit). I wanted this sooner - but it wasn't to be. So, here I was in the middle of winter in Northern California and I found a bottle for the Spring & Summer that is upon us. My oh my, this is so beautiful. The lemons, when blending with the cypress, a wonderful accord of a green, zesty lemon smell comes to mind - lemon verbena or petit grain with verbena in a blender (all leaves, herbs with a full squeeze of fresh lemon juice). However - that is how it presents itself initially and in the heart, it warms to show the beautiful, sharp cypress...a touch woody but fragrant and ethereal. It never loses its radiant freshness...

A wonderful delight and the essence of how a great citrus can still be made with originality. I would not compare it to any other scent, but say that it is a truly exceptional and rich aromatic citrus unto itself. No rating. Again, for the Goutal house - pure adoration.

Highly recommended, for those who love this realm of scent. I absolutely do - and this is, indeed, a stand-out composition and presentation of brilliant ingredients.

Was looking specifically for a strong citrus fragrance that lasts and this fit the bill nicely. Pretty linear, which I see as a pro, not a con. It promises you citrus and it keeps its promise throughout its life on your skin. Identical in formulation to Eau D'Hadrien EDP.