Henry M Betrix City
Betrix (1979)

I'd never heard of 'City' by Betrix. In fact I'd never heard of Betrix before I found this bottle, still boxed and untouched, in a second-hand shop for the princely sum of 50 cents. The box - embossed to look like leather- has no barcode on it, so it's possibly from around the time of the perfume's original release in 1979.

It was 50 cents well spent. It's a very classy aftershave. A nice, rich, spicy citrus opening; more bergamot than lemon. Within minutes the vetiver appears, followed by sandalwood and cedar(?) and the patchouli. In some ways the middle is like original Paco Rabanne, but less soapy; less 'disco' more casino. There's more sophistication, but it's still 1970's man-about-town.

My olfactory memory then bounced between these heart notes and the leathery-musk-vanilla-moss base. In that base labdanum adds the woody-leather aromas and the musky vanilla must come from the castoeum, which may also be the source of the leather notes. It isn't mentioned in the notes here, but there is definite tobacco-like aroma. It's a little rough, smoke-on-leather-jacket tobacco, masked by geraniums, but it's there. Likely a product of the admixture of those base notes mentioned.

This is a masculine classic. Fleetingly citric, spicy, musky, woody, leathery and an undertone of vetiver. It ought not to have been discontinued, but it has been subsumed into P&G who have streamlined their range.

From the meagre application (a small splash) the longevity is astonishing - nine hours and counting. Sillage is very respectable too. Perhaps it is improved by being a 30-odd year old vintage.

Ultra-masculine fragrance, with great use of earthy patchouli and a simply sensational note of laudanum . Very persistent, refined and elegant, and non-intrusive projection. A great perfume, a masterpiece.