Herod
Parfums de Marly (2012)

Parfums de Marly Herod is definitely one of the most accurate interpretations of a smooth, pipe-type (but with a further more sophisticated glorious floral-woodsy articulation) and subtle soapy-floral tobacco's acception out there. This fragrance firstly strikes due to its claim to represent an idea of super silky (almost rubbery in one of its fleeting effects as well as we see in the central Gianfranco Ferrè for men's stage of development) vest/consistency of pipe tobacco-dominant fragrance which in this case projects also the luxurious (almost liquorous) noble facet a quality tobacco tends as well to express (namely a sparkling/intoxicating, super sophisticated, kind of aristocratic and baroquely floral sort of aura). Soapy frankincense, mild-freshly peppery spices, smooth vanilla, cypriol oil, a silky and languid osmanthus and a general widespread muskiness are all key elements revolving around this dominant pipe-soapy tobacco and working sinergically in order to turn it as a musky, well rounded and soapy affair. I have to say anyway that this rounded tobacco (and I suppose a tobacco flower works as well on its side) is really central in this fragrance and is supported by floral patterns, a touch of toasted smoke and fluidy-mild spices (cinnamon and cardamom in particular) in order to switch a sophisticated and prickly kind of velvety floral undertone under our noses. I don't get in particular any vetiver or patchouli but more properly a sort of suedish/pipe/soapy/plummy-figgy/rubbery/musky woodsy aura which is particularly chic as I equally perceive on others glorious spicy tobaccos a la E. Marinella Tabacco Imperiale (or several floral decadent tobaccos). Vanilla and cinnamom in particular provide an almost gourmandish honeyed twist a la Tom Ford Tabacco Vanille (in particular along the central stage of the trip), turning the tobacco in to an almost edible form (but never overwhelming the final dominant pipe tobacco vibe). I have to say anyway that Herod is more subtle, sophisticated and well calibrated than the more yummy/vanillic Tobacco Vanille under my profane nose. Along dry down the floral notes recedes and a drier noble (vintage and "cultured") pipe/cigar tobacco vibe (a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio or Montagne Tobacco Noir) keeps lording alive and kicking. Performances (in particular its projection) are moderate on my skin. An adulthood refined fragrance perfect to be worn in front of a fireplace while reading a book with a glass of whisky and talking confidentially with profound and learned persons.

I’m sure many can relate to having that one fragrance that just does it for them. I don’t care what anyone else thinks when I wear this. Fortunately, it has a very appealing vanilla base and is inoffensive.

I get that not everyone loves tobacco as a fragrance, but there is just something mesmerizing about the way this is constructed. The bottle is gorgeous too. I know PDM is expensive, but if you watch for it on the grey market, there are occasional steals. I got my backup bottle for an insanely cheap price!

Jammy tobacco. Dried figs dusted in cocoa. Chewy and sweet, powdered. Rich, warm and pleasant.

UPDATE: Three hours in and I’m addicted. The initial splash of dense sweetness has given way to sexy woody man musk. I smell like I’ve been making out with a sweaty, pipe-smoking lumberjack and I AM HERE FOR IT.

A cinnamon soaked flower surrounded by plum-tobacco on a bed of earthy vanilla and spiced transparent woods.

Intoxicating.

If this is what osmanthus smells like, then I want to smell more osmanthus: sort of like animalic jasmine.

Surprisingly, Herod smells less like an edible confection than I feared. It is sweet, but the depth and complexity of the fragrance stop it becoming sickly sweet.

For me, any more than four sprays is overwhelming. Longevity is about ten hours and projection is good.

If Red Tobacco by Mancera is too much for you, or too synthetic smelling, then give Herod a go.

9/10

Parfums de Marly has REFORMULATED Herod. I own an older formulation which has an alcohol concentration of 78%. The new formulation I see in stores has 81% alcohol. My formulation is a dark orange / amber color. The new formulation is a very light, faint orange in color. The new formulation does not last as long and it smells different. Parfums de Marly fragrances are ALWAYS getting reformulated and become much weaker than their ORIGINAL releases. Parfums de Marly HAS NOT been transparent when it comes to the reformulation of their fragrances. Carlisle, Layton & Oajan have also been reformulated and have 3%-4% more alcohol in newer batches.

A light and fresh vanilla with a bit of tobacco and a bit of spice, but doesn't come off 'edible' or gourmand to my nose - mostly like a bright, pale yellow color.

As it dries down, some of the heartier notes come up - the tobacco becomes more prominent, there are mild hints of vetiver. But I think the note I notice most is Iso-E-Super.

If you're into thick, rich tobaccos or creamy, dreamy vanillas, Herod will surprise you with its softness and subtlety. The note of Iso-E-Super means that you will get a nice, pleasant sillage. But when I put almost any other scent on one wrist, and Herod on the other, after smelling the first wrist, and then smelling the wrist with Herod, I smell almost nothing at all - it's that light. Yet I will draw compliments wearing this. So again, it's a very Iso-E-Super experience in that respect.

I think I just expected slightly more from PdM. The tobacco is very light. The vanilla is very soft. And the Iso-E-Super gives it that sugary cedar vibe. To my nose, it's not a wonderful blend. Just ... well - I think 'bright, pale yellow' is the best I can do to summarize Herod.