Fragrance evaluation - a philosophical endeavour

LukeLdn

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How do you assess a fragrance? a purely subjective and emotive experience of "like" / "dislike" through an automatic sensory reaction? or an evaluation of artistic expression? - i.e., you can dislike something but simultaneously appreciate it in areas such as: technique, context, materials, concept etc...

It can be argued that fragrance making is an art form that is subjectively assessed based on automatic sensory responses. This argument is based on the idea that fragrance is primarily a sensory experience that is processed by the brain in a way that is largely automatic and unconscious. When we smell a fragrance, our sensory receptors automatically respond to the chemical compounds in the fragrance, triggering a range of emotional and physiological responses that are largely beyond our conscious control. This also works for food i.e., we don't necessarily choose to like or dislike a strawberry, our sensory receptors dictate to us whether we do or do not. Some of us actually like challenging sensory experiences - for example, I never used to like olives, however I persisted and now love them...

This argument however overlooks the fact that fragrance making is also a highly complex and nuanced art form that involves a range of technical and creative skills. Fragrance makers must not only have a deep understanding of the chemical compounds that make up a fragrance but also possess the creative skills necessary to blend these compounds in a way that creates a unique and compelling scent. In addition, noses must also be able to understand and respond to the needs and desires of their customers, which requires a high degree of empathy and emotional intelligence. Therefore one might appreciate the "art" that goes into a fragrance such as Portrait of a Lady but inherently dislike how it smells - the reverse could be said for Britney Spears', Fantasy.

Keen to hear some thoughts on the subjective vs objective areas of the topic.
 

Bavard

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It can be argued that fragrance making is an art form that is subjectively assessed based on automatic sensory responses. This argument is based on the idea that fragrance is primarily a sensory experience that is processed by the brain in a way that is largely automatic and unconscious. When we smell a fragrance, our sensory receptors automatically respond to the chemical compounds in the fragrance, triggering a range of emotional and physiological responses that are largely beyond our conscious control. This also works for food i.e., we don't necessarily choose to like or dislike a strawberry, our sensory receptors dictate to us whether we do or do not. Some of us actually like challenging sensory experiences - for example, I never used to like olives, however I persisted and now love them...
All good here.

This argument however overlooks the fact that fragrance making is also a highly complex and nuanced art form that involves a range of technical and creative skills. Fragrance makers must not only have a deep understanding of the chemical compounds that make up a fragrance but also possess the creative skills necessary to blend these compounds in a way that creates a unique and compelling scent. In addition, noses must also be able to understand and respond to the needs and desires of their customers, which requires a high degree of empathy and emotional intelligence. Therefore one might appreciate the "art" that goes into a fragrance such as Portrait of a Lady but inherently dislike how it smells - the reverse could be said for Britney Spears', Fantasy.
I don't know. What's in it for me as a perfume smeller? The background trivia?
 

GWM

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We can choose to dislike food. There's many reasons people refuse to eats foods other than taste or even smell. The same is true with a perfume. If you frame your experience with a perfume as negative right off that bat (say because it's made by Tom Ford, or it has a bleu bottle, or the bottle is ugly), then you'll likely not ever enjoy the fragrance. That's not objective though. That's why it's difficult to talk about perfumes, because people don't realize how much of their experience is entirely subjective, and no one else a) cares or b) really understands. Very little about perfume reviewing is about the juice inside the bottle -- most of it is about organic or inorganic marketing.


If you want to talk about art, then I think the marketing departments are highly skilled. Those people use a few paragraphs of words, at most, and convince the unwashed masses cheap crap in a bottle that smells bad, actually smells wonderful and makes you a sexy successful person if you buy their overpriced garbage. It's wonderful.
 

Starblind

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This is a question that would require a Master's thesis worth of physiological, psychological, and sociological analysis.

(One tiny physiologlcal example: scientists now believe that we don't all experience 'taste' the same way, and that some of us have more sweet or bitter sensing taste buds than others, etc. I would guess this also applies to our smelling experiences, as well.)
 

LiveJazz

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I increasingly appreciate the Guy Robert test. Its simplicity contains a lot of wisdom, I think. Q: What makes a beautiful perfume? A: “You don’t have to make it complicated – you have to smell good.”

It's easy to get wrapped around the axle trying to be "objective" (whatever that means in this context) in assessing artistic merit and creativity. I've largely backed off of that over the years. It's still fun to pick out notes, assess how it fits within within perfume's historical evolution, and note what makes a perfume seem distinctive...but it all rests on a subjective foundation of "do I think it smells nice" and trying to translate that sensation into words.
 

Schubertian

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I increasingly appreciate the Guy Robert test. Its simplicity contains a lot of wisdom, I think. Q: What makes a beautiful perfume? A: “You don’t have to make it complicated – you have to smell good.”
Yes, but I would argue that smelling "just" good is different from smelling beautiful. There are many perfumes that smell "just" good to me, but those I love smell so beautiful in a way that cannot necessarily analyse (and don't want to) and they just have an emotional impact.

So yes for me it is purely subjective. I love what I love.
 

LiveJazz

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Yes, but I would argue that smelling "just" good is different from smelling beautiful. There are many perfumes that smell "just" good to me, but those I love smell so beautiful in a way that cannot necessarily analyse (and don't want to) and they just have an emotional impact.

So yes for me it is purely subjective. I love what I love.
Yeah, I agree with that. I guess what it does a good job pushing back on is the "well it's obviously a work of staggering artistic genius, but it's completely unwearable" type of reviews. Seems to be a common phase people go through in this hobby. To a certain degree, I still see the attraction there. Those scents can be fun to sniff purely for the entertainment and novelty, but that's where it ends. I guess you just have to be clear about what you want to get out of the experience.
 

JBHoren

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How do you assess a fragrance? a purely subjective and emotive experience of "like" / "dislike" through an automatic sensory reaction? or an evaluation of artistic expression?
 

JBHoren

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I don't know. What's in it for me as a perfume smeller? The background trivia?
This is a big reason (but certainly not the only reason) that I love to read and rely on fragrance reviews by @Varanis Ridari, @otterlake, and others.
Yeah, I agree with that. I guess what it does a good job pushing back on is the "well it's obviously a work of staggering artistic genius, but it's completely unwearable" type of reviews. Seems to be a common phase people go through in this hobby. To a certain degree, I still see the attraction there. Those scents can be fun to sniff purely for the entertainment and novelty, but that's where it ends. I guess you just have to be clear about what you want to get out of the experience.
Boom! [and a big plug for samples and smaller decants] It's the difference between a scent and a fragrance. I've encountered so many that I enjoy smelling, but would not even consider wearing (and, ironically, the former are usually $$$$, while the latter are not... or not nearly so). And, again, it's an entirely subjective determination.
 

monacelli1

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Keen to hear some thoughts on the subjective vs objective areas of the topic.
I don't always agree with their reviews, but I like the Turin and Sanchez approach:
  • Does it smell good?
  • Does it smell interesting?
  • Have we smelled something like this before?
For me it's no different than listening to a piece of music. How does it make me feel when I listen to it/wear it? Why wear something if it doesn't lift your spirit or move you in some way?

I think only perfumers and their lab technicians have the acumen required to assess a perfume on its technical merits. So I don't bother. It's not relevant to my experience as the wearer.
 

cheapimitation

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I think it mostly all happens at once subconsciously, but if I were to break down the evaluation would look something like this:

1. Comparing it against other fragrances I've smelled before

2. Comparing against other similar tier of fragrances, price isn't everything but it implies certain expectations measured against other similarly priced creations

3. If I'm familiar with the perfumer or brand's other work I'm also considering it in comparison to that, is it an interested evolution within the perfumer's work? Or a textbook example of what they do best? Or disappointing compared to their other work?

4. Probably the most subjective: do I like it, does it create a notable reaction be it memory, emotion, remind me of a person, character, or time period, or other interesting or pleasurable sensations

5. Probably the most objective: does it successfully do what it says? Ie. If it's meant to smell like a forest does it smell like a forest? Or physical sensations, does it burn my nose like bleach or does it calm and soothe?

6. Finally, structure/construction. Does it remain interesting for the life of the wear? Does a single note stick out in a bad way? Do I continue to enjoy it and find new facets over multiple wearings or is it immediately legible and quickly becomes tiresome? Are the transitions smooth or awkward? Do I enjoy the degree to which I'm aware of the smell throughout the day?
 
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