Hermessence Appreciation/Discussion Thread

cheapimitation

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May 15, 2015
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In the Chanuary thread it was proposed (by me) rather than have an overload of themed months to simply resurrect or create house threads to discuss, show our appreciation for, and nerd out on a particular line.

So here it is for Hermes Hermessence!

Today I’m going to try to get my nose on Oud Alezan. In anticipation I was googling it and came across this article from Marie Claire. Not the deepest article but I appreciate the tidbits from Nagel herself about the perfume.

“Hermès perfumer Christine Nagel’s first time designing a scent with oud, one of the most luxurious fragrance ingredients on the planet, wasn’t for an official Hermès fragrance. She was tinkering with a one-of-a-kind creation just for herself, a perfume that combined the earthy, sensual scent of oud with rose water and rose oxide. Before long, Nagel found that her fragrance experiment made people around her stop in their tracks.

"One day, I wore it in a meeting—an important meeting of Hermès with the CEO of Hermès perfumes," she tells Marie Claire. "She came close to me saying, 'What can I smell on you?' And I said, 'Oh, it's a thing I did for me, for myself.' She said, 'Oh, it's incredible.'"

So incredible, it eventually became part of Hermès’ official fragrance collection. Nagel’s scent, now known as Oud Alezan, is the newest member of the Hermessence fragrance lineup.
Oud Alezan’s scent profile combines the headiness of the oud with the same contrasting rose notes as Nagel's personal prototype (rose water for lightness, rose oxide for a sharper feel). Available in two sizes in a refillable, leather-capped bottle, the unisex scent can now be worn by anyone ready for a distinctive and luxurious signature fragrance.

Nagel tells us the aesthetics, materials, and concern for details present in Oud Alezan are consistent with every other Hermès scent—particularly the attention to ingredients. Oud (also known as oudh, agarwood, or eaglewood) originates from the Middle East. “I think there's a deep respect for the Middle East and its culture,” Nagel says of the expensive ingredient's sourcing. “The material comes from there, just like when I use a jasmine, it comes from India.”

The master perfumer’s fragrance inspiration is as personal as the actual scent. She can trace it all the way back to childhood, when a fear of horses started a lifelong olfactory journey.
"When I was a child and even a teenager, I didn't have horses around me. I didn't do horse riding. It wasn't my everyday life,” Nagel recalls. "The horse seemed very big to me—very powerful and distant. But I realized that the horse was present every day in the story of Hermès.” (The luxury house often quips that horses were their first clients, given that harnesses and saddles were their first products.)
Deep into her role at the maison, Nagel asked to visit horse stables for the Saut Hermès competition in Paris. Taken aback by the magnificence of the animals, she kept her distance until a horse stuck its head out to come cheek-to-cheek with the fragrance expert. After freezing for a moment, she felt compelled to follow the horse into its stall and sniff it up close.

“It was an olfactory surprise. There was that deep smell, that odor, but I felt such strong emotion,” Nagel says. “It was amazing. It was astonishing. And I said to myself, 'One day I will do something with this idea; with this strong emotion.'"

The moment lodged in her memory, percolating creatively until the fateful day she smelled a scent strip of oud a few years later. She immediately wanted to feel surrounded by the warm, spicy base note, and thought about creating a scent that evoked a similar emotional response. Cut to the present: Oud Alezan captures the feeling Nagel had in the horse’s stall.
Not every person who sprays on the fragrance can tap into Nagel’s formative scent memories; they will, at least, stand out in a crowd of scents. "I hope that the person who smells it will say, 'Oh, you're wearing Oud Alezan,' and that it has sufficient signature for it to be recognizable,” Nagel says. “I think there are too many fragrances which look like each other; which smell like each other."
Indeed, the release smells so unique that Nagel cautions, "It's not a perfume for somebody who doesn't like to assert themselves." Hermès Oud Alezan has an undeniable presence: authentic, thoughtfully made, and created with a story as rich as the scent itself.
 

GWM

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Another rose oud? Great. I remember when Ellena was at Hermes they were very headstrong in refusing to go with the crowd and release an oud. I was optimistic for Nagel, but it's clear the direction Hermes has taken is lackluster, and I'd like to see a new perfumer. I know some people really like Galop, but imo she's put out absolutely nothing noteworthy in the years she's been with Hermes. I'm wearing H24 EDP right now, and it's a nice enough perfume, but just like all her output it's a 6-7/10.

As for Hermessence by Ellena, Brin de Reglisse, Poivre Samarcande, Ambre Narguile, Vetiver Tonka, Cuir d'Ange, and Paprika Brasil are all wonderful.
 

cheapimitation

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Didn't want to make this just about the new oud but that was on my mind when I started the thread. I'm indifferent about another rose oud, it doesn't bother me or particularly excite me but I'm wiling to give it a chance.

Hermessence sits in a weird place in my wardrobe. On one hand I think I could be totally content wearing nothing but the line, there's so much variety and all are easy to wear. But then I tend to forget about them and probably wear them the least of anything I own, thus why I wanted to initiate a discussion about the line and give them some love.

They are also very underrepresented in terms of reviews especially on YouTube, which is a good or bad thing depending on how you look at it. I appreciate the lack of hype, it's like an insiders secret.

Still, I remember feeling frustrated when looking for reviews that the only comprehensive review of the line was from the Fragbros channel, and they really do not get what these fragrances are about.
It's a bit of a shame to have that as the lone voice about these fragrances on YouTube.

Sebastian Furtado has added some great videos to the discourse, but they still feel underrepresented (sorry if I'm losing those who do not watch YouTube).

Anyhow, I plan to update here more on each fragrance as I wear them. Overall though, I think it's a fascinating and artful body of work that really allows you to get in the head of one of the best perfumes of our time, Jean-Claude Ellena.
 

Schubertian

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I'll follow this thread with interest as I don't have any Hermessences and have only managed to try a couple (they are hard to find and sample). I remember trying Ambre Narguilé and Cuir d'Ange, both of which I found pleasant.
 

baklavaRuzh

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I really like Hermessence, stereotypically Ambre Narguilé is my favorite. Some of them I tried so many years ago, I can't remember what they smelled like, such as Brin de réglisse.

So far I enjoyed Nagel's contributions to the Hermessence line more than the fragrances she did for other lines including the hermes mainline. So I can't complain too much.

I'm sad I won't be getting any more of Vanille Galante which was discontinued and and gone from all Paris stores by autumn last year. I only have a few drops left in my bottle from many many years ago. And it seems impossible to find a similar fragrance.

Paprika brezil is also set to be gone.
 

baklavaRuzh

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Hermessence sits in a weird place in my wardrobe. On one hand I think I could be totally content wearing nothing but the line, there's so much variety and all are easy to wear. But then I tend to forget about them and probably wear them the least of anything I own, thus why I wanted to initiate a discussion about the line and give them some love.
Me too. I had more or less only Hermessence fragrance plus one or two fragrances that were easier to travel with up until 2019. I cureently have osmanthe yunnan, rose ikebana, Paprika brezil, Iris Ukiyoé, Violette volynka, Myrrhe églantine Poivre Samarcande, ambre Narguilé and some drops left vanille Galante.

Many of them have changed a bit in the bottle since I got them. Poivre Samarcande has lost something... and feels more one dimensional now. Paprika brezil has also lost some top notes and it feels more like a violet iris combo. I haven't tried the reformulated ones for these two, but vintage isn't always better.
 
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GWM

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Me too. I had more or less only Hermessence fragrance plus one or two fragrances that were easier to travel with up until 2019. I cureently have osmanthe yunnan, rose ikebana, Paprika brezil, Iris Ukiyoé, Violette volynka, Myrrhe églantine Poivre Samarcande, ambre Narguilé and some drops left vanille Galante.

Many of them have changed a bit in the bottle since I got them. Poivre Samarcande has lost something... and feels more one dimensional now. Paprika brezil has also lost some top notes and it feels more like a violet iris combo. I haven't tried the reformulated ones for these two, but vintage isn't always better.

They're not reformulated. Also, when fragrances change that's because you've now been exposed to them and you notice different aspects of the perfume. Paprka Brasil always was more of violet/iris fragrance. This is a normal process that happens.
 

baklavaRuzh

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They're not reformulated. Also, when fragrances change that's because you've now been exposed to them and you notice different aspects of the perfume. Paprka Brasil always was more of violet/iris fragrance. This is a normal process that happens.
Isn't it likely that they or at least a good proportion of the earliest Hermessence fragrances have been reformulated due to bans happening since, especially the lyral ban? I'm not on conspiracy train with regards to reformulations by the way, I'm just going off interviews with other people in the industry that mention that a large group of fragrances were impacted. I'm not comparing formulations either as I haven't tried the current offerings, except for Ambre Narguilé. I don't really notice a significant difference in new ambre Narguilé, except my old bottle only has a little juice left which is now much darker and more concentrated for reasons that aren't related to any possible reformulations if it has even been impacted.

Of course it's impossible to compare my impression of a fragrance from 10 - 15 years or more years ago with what I smell today. My bottle of Paprika brezil now doesn't smell like fresh paprika or green anymore in the opening, which I remember from years ago. But it could of course be a mind trick.
 

GWM

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Isn't it likely that they or at least a good proportion of the earliest Hermessence fragrances have been reformulated due to bans happening since, especially the lyral ban? I'm not on conspiracy train with regards to reformulations by the way, I'm just going off interviews with other people in the industry that mention that a large group of fragrances were impacted. I'm not comparing formulations either as I haven't tried the current offerings, except for Ambre Narguilé. I don't really notice a significant difference in new ambre Narguilé, except my old bottle only has a little juice left which is now much darker and more concentrated for reasons that aren't related to any possible reformulations if it has even been impacted.

Of course it's impossible to compare my impression of a fragrance from 10 - 15 years or more years ago with what I smell today. My bottle of Paprika brezil now doesn't smell like fresh paprika or green anymore in the opening, which I remember from years ago. But it could of course be a mind trick.

I'm more than willing to concede a Hermessence fragrance has been reformulated, but you've got to give evidence. We cannot just say since regulations are introduced that de-facto something has been reformulated.

If there's a Hermessence that had lyral, that no longer does and it's still sold, then yes clearly that fragrance has been reformulated. Which one though, just provide the evidence, and you're in the clear for making these claims.

Going by "well it smells different and the color changed" is just not going to work. I've gone through 2 eau d'hermes bottles, and the fragrance as a whole is interpreted very differently by my nose today, than it was when I first discovered it at an Hermes counter. Thing is, my bottles are the same formula, and yet they smell different than I recall. This happens with all perfumes, and it has more to do with our biology than the chemistry inside the bottle.
 

baklavaRuzh

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I'm more than willing to concede a Hermessence fragrance has been reformulated, but you've got to give evidence. We cannot just say since regulations are introduced that de-facto something has been reformulated.

If there's a Hermessence that had lyral, that no longer does and it's still sold, then yes clearly that fragrance has been reformulated. Which one though, just provide the evidence, and you're in the clear for making these claims.
I'm sorry that my initial post wasn't clear in that sense. it should have said 'in the event' they have been reformulated. I have no interest in whether they have actually been reformulated or not and im sorry this even turned into a topic here. I was trying to make the point that I notice some changes in my own bottles with use in the after many years, and it reminds me that maybe it's time to get a new bottle because I quite enjoyed the greener aspect of PB as an example.

Edit: Just for the sake of clarity, my own bottles have obviously not gone through any reformulations.

My old bottle of ambre Narguilé does smell different and more concentrated compared to the new bottle, but that's because there's hardly any juice left in the old bottle.
 
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GWM

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I was trying to make the point that I notice some changes in my own bottles with use in the after many years, and it reminds me that maybe it's time to get a new bottle because I quite enjoyed the greener aspect of PB as an example.

I hope I'm not the bearer of bad news, but it could be that your nose changed. Like, I'm never going to get that first "hit" of eau d'hermes again -- it's like chasing the dragon. The fragrance just smells different now, since I've gotten to learn the perfume and my nose interprets it holistically rather than being contextualized by just mostly the top notes.
 

showpony

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I love Cuir d’Ange (currently my only Hermessence) but I don’t wear it frequently…it’s one that I need to be in the mood to wear. As a horsey girl that raised a horsey daughter, I’m intrigued by Oud Alezan. I really love that one can purchase Hermessences in travel size sets! Such an economical and efficient way to explore the lineup.
 

Redneck Perfumisto

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So incredible, it eventually became part of Hermès’ official fragrance collection. Nagel’s scent, now known as Oud Alezan, is the newest member of the Hermessence fragrance lineup.

Exciting!

I will try to sniff some of these newer exclusives soon. I've been out of the Hermèssence game for a while. Thanks for starting this thread!
 

PStoller

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I have and like travel sprays of Ambre Narguilé, Agar Ebène, Paprika Brasil, and Santal Massoïa. I might add a couple more at some point.
 

Janjanjan

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I'm one of the folks that didn't "get" Hermessence when I first tried them - early in my scent journey. I mostly tried the lighter scents of the whole lot, and did not realize the line was largely meant to be a "light wear" experience for folks that either (1) don't like to offend but still want to smell luxurious, and/or (2) switch up their scents throughout the day.

I was also not familiar with JCE and his watercolor style, which admittedly I am still not a stan for. But I have come to know what I'm getting now and appreciate it, when before I didn't at all.

I have a lot of respect for the unique combination of lavender and licorice in Brin de Réglisse and completely drained my travel spray of it. I think Osmanthe Yunnan is delightful, I know someone has done great work when fruit notes are in a fragrance and I still love it (fruit phobe here). And I am very excited to try the new Oud Alezan - I am a sucker for all horse inspired fragrances thanks to my love of Arabian Horse, and Persolaise just gave this one a positive review.

I wish the bottle prices weren't so darn high but that's my only knock of the line.

Thank you @cheapimitation for starting this thread and including the insightful comments by the perfumer!
 

GWM

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And I am very excited to try the new Oud Alezan - I am a sucker for all horse inspired fragrances thanks to my love of Arabian Horse, and Persolaise just gave this one a positive review.

Okay, understand all that horse related stuff is just Hermes marketing, because they're a house that traditionally made equestrian goods. The perfume smells more like Ombre Nomade than a musky horsey thing.
 

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