Perfume Reviews by Darvant

Pour Un Homme Le Soir by Caron

One of the best stuffs I've smelled in a long time, a fantastic improvement on the original and glorious Pour Un Homme de Caron (1934) and for us a sort of new age Chanel Egoiste's languid (less spicy/resinous and virile but far more refined, silky almondy and balmy) cousin for the unmatchable contemporary classy man of the new millennium. A perfect masterwork of languid decadent elegance, unmatchable aristocratic dandyism and hypnotic silkiness, a fragrance to die for (according with my taste) in its impeccable symphony of strict olfactory balancements. Pure class, no question about it, a nocturnal modern Pour Un Homme's version whispering poetic words of seduction after the sunset. Pour Un Homme De Caron Le Soir Eau de Parfum Intense was launched in the 2022 and is a magic amber fougére focused on a stunning main accord of moderately powdery iris, aristocratic lavender, liquorous woods (oakwood extract, sourced from reclaimed cognac casks) and silky vanilla. Violet complements orris root providing in the meanwhile a more stiff masculine undertone while cypress is magically laced to lavender in order to provide a lusty aromatic green vaguely "anisic" touch. Finally tonka bean soothens the elements and enriches the smooth vanilla with a delicious sort of nutty almondy vibe while a tad of frankincense enhances the silky spicy captivating trail. The aroma even remains masculine, super balanced and restrained but in a silky and symphonic way. Le Soir is a more modern silky/suedish, spicy and cleaner version of the original more citric/woody/aromatic and less floral Pour um Homme de Caron Edt (1932), namely a pillar of classicism and one of the first semi oriental approaches to perfumery. Le Soir is a fragrance with the same silky elegance I can feel in fragrances as Cartier Declaration d'un Soir (2012) or Declaration Parfum (2018). Lavender, the absolute protagonist, is silky, boisé, vaguely coniferous, almondy and kind of anisic liquorous, revealing out all its aristocratic vaguely old-school appeal in a new modern soapy vest (two lavender essences has been implemented and combined, one from the Provence region of France and the other from Bulgaria to reveal their different level of intensity). To conclude I'd recommend this fragrance to men loyal to tradition but absolutely contemporary and always impeccable in style, shifted in to the future and seductive, a modern kind of seducer always well trimmed, reassuring and rich in culture and knowledge.

Cypress & Grapevine by Jo Malone London

A modern take on the spicy aromatic (with fougére tones) masculine chypré theme. A darkly boisé fragrance from Jo Malone introduced in 2020 and created by perfumer Sophie Labbe. Cypress & Grapevine Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London starts promisingly close in smell to vintage Ungaro III with my full pleasure (fizzy spiciness, rootiness, some nuttiness and something boozy, in this case vaguely viney, in the air) but all this beauty finally (and quickly) evolves towards something more properly woody and barber-shop (yes in a generic way, not so distant in aroma and vibes from scents a la Montblanc Legend Edt 2011) with pencil shavings accents (overall with a really pale evolution), some ambroxan and a charge of spicy muskiness. This fragrance combines woody notes, aromatics, grapewine and a tad of ambroxan I suppose. The dry down is masculine and kind of generically spicy-laundry-barber shop. The juice is supposed to evoke a sort of british countryside's rural atmosphere during the fall season in a wine farm with all its charge of rituals, stale wine cellar aroma, earthiness and woodsiness. Cypress and aromatics provide a freshly spicy opening which is gradually laced to a blend of cedarwood and vetiver with warm amber and juicy grape notes. A combination of woodiness, dry spiciness and ambroxan closes the circle. In to a nutshell this is an easy going fragrance, not particularly evocative, dynamic and with performances in the average. It is not so evokative imo while it plays more as a generic office-scent. Not particularly exciting and not enough for my full pleasure.

Black Meisterstuck by Montblanc

A really dark and enigmatic take on fluidy spicy smokey/nutty frankincense by Montblanc. The enigma of dark smoky amber. A gorgeous and really grand oriental modern fragrance for sneaky mysterious darkly suited metropolitain fellows. Black Meisterstuck by Montblanc is actually an ambery resinous woodsy fragrance for men launched in 2024 and performed by the talented perfumer Jordi Fernández. If you particularly appreciate creations a la Ojar Encens Cuivre (2023), Robert Piguet Casbah (2012) or Louis Vuitton Ombre Nomade (2018) but also conceptually pop cult creations a la Costume National Scent Intense (2002) this fragrance would probably appeal your senses. Under my profane nose Black Meisterstuck is all about smokey (by simil toasted coffee-nuances veined) amber, fluidy spicy frankincense, hints of silky suede and cool virile earthy vetiver. Amber is oudish resinous, freshly boisé, fluidy spicy, vaguely furry and veined by an undisherned suedish-nutty-chocolatey spark (the modern twist of this olfactory fatigue). Frankincense is in particular modernly rendered in a fresh, silky/suedish, fancy (well trimmed and metropolitan like) and never liturgical way. I don't get a laborious evolution while performances are great (either duration and sillage). Vetiver and hints of citrus provide a fresh virile earthiness which is woodsy and slightly metallic. Finally silky, cardamomish and smokey boisé this fragrance is a perfect olfactory companion for dark rendez-vous, "missions" in a down town dangerous club and romantic encounters. Thumbs up.

Singulier by Boucheron

Boucheron Singulier is a cool musky aromatic deeply blue fragrance appointed for Boucheron by perfumer Caroline Dumur and launched on the market in 2022. This fragrance follows the Dior Sauvage EdT's olfactory trend although it can't be defined properly a dupe of the taking the world by storm former Dior's top seller. Actually Singulier possesses an its own special aromatic peculiarity which is countersigned by a general muskiness, a more moderate spicy rootiness, a touch of undiscerned saltiness and a sort of fluidy kind of cardamomish inebriating aura. While smelling Boucheron Singulier it seems to inhale something combining the original Dior Sauvage Edt with the great Heaven Chopard (1984) and with a minimal hint of Narciso Rodriguez for Him Bleu Noir (2015). The juice is peppery and balsamic, masculine and energizing, salty and laundry, earthy and fluidy. Lavender (a key note), juniper berries and aromatics connect citric zestiness with ambroxan and a final exotic woodiness in a beautiful mix of coolness, oceanic saltiness and musky piquant virility. This fragrance works pretty well on sultry climates and general tropical humidity, it exalts the note of lavender in a vibrant woody exotic vest. Vetiver provides a touch of green exotic (far oceanic lands conjuring) mystery, being itself a key note catering earthiness, darkness, exoticism and mystery. As well as previously pointed out Singulier possesses a salty oceanic hidden touch which charts its particular olfactory way and slightly differs the smell from the Dior Sauvage's more straightforward ambery (ambroxan dominant) woodiness. This salty vibe is kind of laundry, herbal and rooty. The final outcome (salty, spicy and earthy, with a mysterious salty laundry aura and a touch of pencil shavings) conjures me partially Prada Luna Rossa Carbon (2017) as well despite Boucheron Peculier smells more laundry/aromatic and less earthy metallic. The bottom line is that Peculier is nothing but a decently appointed cool virile new creation on the citric aromatic blue new woody trend to be chosen as alternative to more renowned and well marketed similar solutions.

Pour Un Homme Le Matin by Caron

Pour Un Homme Le Matin (2022) represents alongside Pour Un Homme Le Soir (2022) and Pour Un Homme Parfum (2024 version) one of the most recent Caron's performances on the classic Pour Un Homme (1934)'s flankers/refreshments/variations-theme. Pour Un Homme by Caron Le Matin is a modern and definitely well crafted aromatic fougére Eau de Toilette lording in dynamism and virile freshness in perfect late 80's/initial 90's style. As well as by himself declared the main intention and the real challenge of the Maison Caron's perfumer Jean Jacques was the one to offer to the clients an invigorating (fresh and dynamic) modern subtle update of the legendary and iconic classic Pour Un Homme (1934) while respecting and preserving the originary soul of the vintage formula. Jean Jacques has accomplished its olfactory project by combining the main citrus-fern aromatic accord with a surprising duo of growed in Provence lavandin and co2 ginger produced by a technique of cold extraction (providing an icy tonic vibe). Modernity encounters tradition but with a significant deflection or at least concept's change without any trace of the original semi-oriental ambery-vanillic-heliotropic silky twist. To be honest Le Matin is properly a brand new fragrance under my profane nose, definitely fresh and well made but expressing a significant diversion from the original vibe, a sort of golf-club fragrance (conceptually a la Trophée by Lancome 1982) like something in the middle between the classic piney/refreshing/floral Eau de Rochas Homme (1993), the dry citric/herbal Nino Cerruti 1881 (1990) and something minty bleu (woody/citric/herbal) a la Thierry Mugler Ice Men (2007) or something like Cerruti Pour Homme (2007) or Porsche Design The Essence Summer Ice (2010). Pour Un Homme by Caron Le Matin is an almost balsamic invigorating woody-musky eau de toilette. The initial blast of petit grain, bergamot, lime-green peels, dry spices and ginger is definitely tart, herbal, vibrant and uplifting. Ginger in particular surrounds all the elements with an aromatic vest which is perfectly combined to lavandin and leafy geranium (dynamic, sporty and muscular in its sporty vibe). Along dry down the notes of patchouli, guaiac wood and musk complete the job in order to perform a quite sporty and dynamic day time modern (but un-original) aromatic "eau" (nothing but a blast of aromatics, citrus and "fresh air"). On this phase the aroma is really close the the most recent (but watered down) version of the classic Enrico Coveri Pour Homme (1984) minus the suedish/ambery final consistency (quite pale in the recent drugstore version). Performances are surprisingly strong for an eau de toilette, especially the projection which is definitely powerful and with a long jet. To be honest I finally find this fragrance a bit anonymous and redundant, most of all I don't get the Pour Un Homme-aura and uniqueness while I get an umpteenth sporty aromatic fragrance with woody accents as dozens perfumes out there yet tested so far. The part I mostly appreciate is the quite virile dry down (bitter, woodsy and peppery) and the perfect performances especially on sultry/tropical climates. This is actually a versatile fragrance for sultry climates definitely more muscular and refreshing than the original 1934-version but absolutely missing its gentlemanly refinement and the languid touch of other-age romantic dandyism.

Sea Wood by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

"Hard to handle with" visionary creation by Dubrana for its Abdes Salaam Attar La via del Profumo, a sort of arcane really rough woody (mostly patchouli) smell with a sheer saltiness and elements of edgy spiciness. The juice is assumed to ideally evoke the aroma of a seasoned ship-wood (an ancient storeroom once loaded with spices and ambergris) drifted on the beach after a long travel in open sea. Initially it seems to cope with a bottle of vintage Giviemme Tabacco d'Harar (woods, spiciness, salty acidity), namely you are invested by a deeply spicy sort of harsh tobacco-seasoned smoky woods combo. In a short while you perceive an evident and gradually rising salty presence, hints of smokiness, harsh dry woods and peppery-liquorous spices. Frankly I hardly pick up any ambergris while I get some spicy resins in the air. The main rugged woody vibe is provided by rooty patchouli while from the vetiver I perceive exclusively a plain earthiness all around. Overall the entire aroma is focused on this beautiful juxtaposition betweed ostensibly boozy mild intoxicating spices (nutmeg, cinnamom, black pepper etc) and a dry harsh/salty accord of woods and "sea patterns". To be honest Sea Wood/Legno di mare lacks structure and real evolution under my nose, the spiciness is kind of evident but kind of undisherned (with a touch of a sort of liquorous twist) while the whole composition (as usual for La Via del Profumo) is generous, vivid, honest and dignified. A sort of biologically natural perfumery (a Dubrana landmark focused on explorations, travels, inner journeys, olfactory reserch and spirituality) which anyway I generally tend to perceive as structurally incomplete though undoubtedly intrigant, wild and evocative. The aroma does not evolve at all on my skin holding on this way till its not distant fading. This is a pretty masculine fragrance imo.
Law performances and medium rating also since this smell does not match my full olfactory pleasure but all my compliments and encouragement to this genuine "exotic" (based in italy) little brand.

Sweet Leaf by Room 1015

Room 1015 Sweet Leaf is another fragrance waving in the same league as Terre d'Hermes, G.Bellini Wood and Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra (but with an its own more grassy-anisic and kind of "wild" nature) and is another modern green creation focused on a cannabis-founded main accord a la Bois 1920 Cannabis (2019) and stuffs like that. Sweet Leaf was launched in 2021by this niche french little house working in cooperation with talented young perfumers. The captivating deep green bottle heralds a straightforward grassy balsamic juice which is minty, peppery and turpentinic, a quite mentholated and eucalyptus-focused new generation fougére with herbal, tart citric and floral nuances. The cannabis accord is noticeable, especially in the first part of the trip. Its is combined with tart grapefruit and balsamic grassy notes. This is a wild "naturalistic" green/resinous accord like to be lied down in the middle of a mountain meadow. This is not a smoked bursting marijuana sort of accord (despite a touch of smokiness in it, which is joined to spiciness, camphor, a touch of earthiness and resins), on the contrary is a deeply grassy (somewhat lymphatic and dirty) accord, mostly as combined with bitter green, leafy and balsamic notes. Angelica in particular provides a sort of anisic note which is laced to eucalyptus in a sort of early morning grassy effect with faint earthy/turpentinic and floral notes (jasmine in particular with its floral twist which is not indolic but leafy and kind of anisic/minty). To be honest the general vibe is finally somewhat synthetic in perception and overly "botanic" (namely kind of indie a la Slumberhouse Vickt and not particularly elegant or classy under my profane nose). Cannabis arouses in particular some green-resinous dissonant "dirty fatness". Turpentine in particular (as flanked by a slightly rubbery cannabis-trait) arouses a sort of bitter plastic vibe which I find not particularly appreciable and synthetic. This is effectively a woodsy fragrance for roaming all around America bikers and wanderes but I'd not find the right occasion to wear it almost anywhere if not rarely during an outdoor day in a mountain enviroment with high pines and conifers. Good performance on my skin. Try it before purchasing a full bottle.

Legend Red by Montblanc

Montblanc Legend Red was launched in 2022. It is a really manly pencil-shavings modern spicy-aromatic designer chypré with a final more "sporty bleu" tarter citric evolution. It is basically an Atlas Cedar-founded kind of concoction. It smells initially not so distant from its darker predecessor Mont Blanc Legend (2011) which is more aromatic and fruity-floral but basically more woody in the final "outlook" (at least under my nose). In its final stage Mont Blanc Red actually evolves till smelling like something somewhat in the middle between Ralph Lauren Polo Red Parfum (2023), Dolce and Gabbana K Eau de Toilette (2019) and Davidoff Cool Water Parfum (2021). In particular it smells like a sort of woodier-more peppery sort of Dolce and Gabbana K (which is a better fragrance imo). Juniper berries, clary sage and cardamom provide throughout that typical peppery aromatic fluidy aura, mahogany and sandalwood are responsible of the general woodiness while blood orange, cedar and grapefruit arouse a dominant (at least in the final stage) juicy fruity tart acidity. The latter is paradoxically more evident in the base notes than in the top while woodiness on the contrary smells more cedary and peppery in the top stage. A touch of tonka bean soothens the elements providing a soapier vibe but hardly influencing the smell which is all about tart fruity elements, cardamom, aromatics and woods. While Legend original ends down woody and spicy (and pencil-shavings on my skin, similar to what Legend Red smells for a while in its top notes) Red settles on a more cedary citric final layer and smells this way till the end. Atlas cedar is the key element in here since this juice smells very close to the soapy Atlas cedar-aroma plus spices and woods. In to a nutshell this is a somewhat mediocre fragrance under my profane nose. It lacks originality and it smells "overly designer" and synthetic (somewhat cedary plastic) on my skin. Mediocre for summer usage (there are far better alternatives out there), somewhat boring and with not enough class and distinction. I don't crave for the Legend-stock and this is one of those that less captivate my interest.

L'Uomo Trussardi by Trussardi

L'Uomo by Trussardi, launched in 1995 (in a full italian - taking the world by storm - wave of olfactory creativity) and to not be confused with the unparalleled incensey-leathery and far more austere vintage Trussardi Uomo (1983, dark by leather wrapped bottle with golden cap), is a woody aromatic fragrance exclusively for men. A really excellent versatile yet elegant fragrance for refined men who love social life and busy events (especially outdoors spring-summer meetings). The evolution is well articulated for our full pleasure. It starts quite citric, aromatic and fresh like a lovely italian southern blooming up countryside. A lovely green citric opening with floral and spicy accents notable by soon. This stage is refreshing and aromatic with a notable lavender and freshly mild citrus (orange-tangerine in particular). The former provide a definitely mediterranean "open lungs" brightness while in particular tomato leaves impress a markedly bitter and manly herbal twist a la Trussardi Action Uomo (a more herbal and less citric bright classic fragrance). The central stage is spicier and floral with an heady leafy masculine rose-geranium combo smelling spicy and still freshly aromatic. Gradually the tobacco emerges in combo with virginia cedar. It soothens the elements and impress a silkier soapy typically spicy/laundry tobacco-veined general exotic aura (spices, tobacco, balsams, soft vanilla and virginia cedar). The latter becomes gradually woodier and ambery with musky accents. Vanilla utterly cuts the edges and the final trail is sweeter-spicier and soapy tangerinic but still with a landmark woody rooty-bitter undertone (quite virile, soapy and elegant). Dry down is perfect on skin in its herbal spicy milfness and the masculine manly amberish twist. A great mediterranean fragrance in the same league as vintage (the more tobacco infused among all the various formulations) Dolce and Gabbana Pour Homme (1994), Nazzareno Gabrielli Pour Homme (1996) and O'Boticario Uomini (1996). A fragrance (unfortunately discontinued) responding to an universal concept of spicy mediterranean kind of timeless elegance, still now perfect for its versatility and the dandyish yet discreet elegance.

Orphéon by Diptyque

What a pleasant surprise!! A modern but classically inspired fragrance full of allure and mystere. Orphéon Eau de Parfum by Diptyque is (marketed as unisex but mostly masculine to me) grassy musky floral Chypré fragrance with a distinguisced, assertive and vaguely nostalgic-melancholic soul. This fragrance is classy in a measured, "silent" and super balanced way. Despite marketed as unisex it is a fragrance better performing on a men imo (if you really want to take the most of it), although I have to assert that there is in it a sort of sophisticated musk/ylang-ylang oriented silky subtleness you can find out in many glorious feminine perfumes of the past (Fendi by Fendi, V&A First etc, just to quote several). Orphéon Eau de Parfum was launched in 2021and the nose behind this fragrance is the great Olivier Pescheux (Ex Nihilo, D&G, Versace, Ysl, Jil Sander, Lanvin, Moschino etc). Orphéon is told to evoke the smoky and warm atmosphere of an iconic night club bar in the Saint Germain Paris neighborhood and it is named behind it. To be honest I don't get any smoky vibe while I detect a complex floral presence (definitely more than the only jasmine), musk, pepper, juniper berries, ginger and lot more. Juniper berries is probably the main element and this fragrance definitely exalts this note and its implementation in perfumery. The fragrance is mostly focused on soapy talky cedarwood (woody notes plus soothing and powdery tonka bean and fresh soapy tobacco), tobacco leaves, floral notes (magnolia seems to be the main floral note under my nose, ylang-ylang, rose as well ?), a touch of suede and aromatic peppery juniper berries (I detect several similatities of it with the more complex Penhaligon's Juniper Sling indeed). The Orphéon's aroma is slightly green/berrish aromatic, spicy (mostly cinnamon imo), definitely musky floral (in a melancholic spicy and sophisticated intense way) and soapy woody because of a central accord of silky tobacco and powdery notes. Woodiness, grassiness and florals provide a sort of featuring melancholic spicy woodsy aura really classy, reserved and sophisticated (despite the classic inspiration I detect as well that green floral musky sophistication you can notice in modern musky scents a la Lumiere Noire Pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian or Il Profvmo Black Dianthus). There is something vaguely sultry exotic in it, something in the middle between Armani Onde Mystére (2008) and Cartier La Panthére Edt (2018), something vaguely smelling like sweated skin previously moisturized and layered with soothing grassy-woody foams and creams. There is as well a classic musky chypré aura in this parfum, something vaguely conjuring classic floral chypré scents a la Molto Smalto (1993), Borsalino by Borsalino (1984), Calvin Klein Eternity men (1989) or Ysl Jazz (1988). Dry down is warm, berrish, woody and floral (on my skin virile and more masculine oriented). I'm surprised by duration which go beyond the 12 hours on my skin while sillage is somewhat moderate. Super recommended and a new favorite of mine from Diptyque. A fragrance perfect for signature if you are that kind of mysterious and elusive intellectual fellow drinking a gin lonely down a super classy jazz cafè.

Trussardi Uomo Levriero Collection by Trussardi

The fragrance on the picture with the notes and the description below is actually Trussardi Uomo Eau de Parfum which is an amber fougére fragrance for men launched by maison Trussardi in the year 2019 and created by Aurélien Guichard (the nose performer behind). The levriero-figure characterizes the cap of the beautiful black lucid bottle. As well as for Trussardi Uomo New and Black Extreme "modern classicism and minimalistic well tailored virile elegance" is the motto of the concept behind (an homage to the aromatic barbershop italian tradition). Zesty-spicy citrus, dry leafy florals and soapy musky leather are the key notes of this elegantly hesperidic leather-fragrance. Bergamot in particular welcomes us with its slightly medicinal zesty soapy blast (bitter lemony, grassy, tart, aromatic). It is perfectly binded to geranium and violet leaves in a typically stiff and dry elegant (hyper) masculin floral accord. There is a dry "spiky" spiciness supported by aromatics (clary sage in particular) as in a typical fougére powerhouse green citric accord. The core and the final trail of this traditional fragrance (a new age gentlemanly accord in the middle between something barbershop soapy-aromatic and a traditional leather powderhouse) is soapy mossy, woodsy and leathery. The note of patchouli is spicy and provides a solid dark backbone while the main final vibe is this soapy mossy leather accord (the Trussardi landmark olfactory twist, kind of soapy-suedish). There is something soapy-honeyed (kind of waxy) in the air provided by oakmoss and honeyed (slightly powdery and leathery) amber and this is a real classic "barber-shop/toiletries" vibe that plays homage to tradition. Oakmoss, violet leaves and galbanum in particular determine a sort of neutral soapy mossy aura really boisé and stiff till the woodsy-leathery dry down's disclosure. Trussardi Uomo Eau de Parfum Levriero is neutral in its soapy leathery lemony appeal, something conjuring me vaguely (in style) the classic Boucheron Pour Homme (1991), Armani Pour Homme (1984) or vintage Monsieur de Givenchy (1959) plus the leather-vibe despite Trussardi preserves an its own special more modern identity. Performances are somewhat "shy" on my skin and in perfect harmony with the discreet appeal of this perfume (which you'd have to spray kind of frequently like doing for an eau de cologne). I definitely recommend this well executed fragrance to all those refined and dynamic lovers of tradition, hanging out perfecly tailored "all'italiana" (in perfect italian style).

Awake by Akro

Akro is a brand founded by Olivier Cresp and his daughter Anais. It is, under my profane nose and for my limited experience with its perfumes, a deeply Londoner little house appointed under the experience and wisdom of the notorious star-nose Oliver Cresp. Awake was launched in 2018. It is a particular aromatic "toasted" fragrance by several people defined as a spicy aromatic gourmand but which smells anything but gourmand under my vulgar nostrils. The addiction inspiring Awake is in this case the one of coffee (toasted, roasted, perfumed, aromatic). I've spent an happy though short period of my life in the amazing and indescribable (in short words) city of London. This beautiful little (but temperamental) perfume seems to silently catch something inherent in the London's deep cosmopolitan soul yet in its exotic but at same time profoundly british side. Awake smells something like the mix of aromas you could catch in a London's little refined luxury hotel at morning (a winter grey morning). A fluidy and peppery smell of spices is always lingering everywhere in the London's air (in this ideal case along the hotel-lobbies) and it is in here combined with a roasted beautiful coffee-aroma exhaling from the breakfast lounge and with something green, aromatic and exotic jumping in part from the assertively green old-school eau de cologne you have dabbed on you cheek yet and furthermore from the lobbies/rooms-perfume refresher waving all around. Outside London is there, in the financial district of Bank with its commanding architecture, busy and full of business men running fast in their impeccably tailored british suits. On the aromatic path all is played on this juxtaposition between roasted/toasted coffee (a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio minus tobacco plus spicy/exotic vetiver) and the green rootiness from a quality vetiver. Lemon provides the classic restrained (little aromatic neo-fougére) hesperidic aura mixed with the fluidy aromatic peppery income from cardamom (hints of lavender as well?) while the fragrance's development settles down a bed of finally silkier vetiver (dreamy and exotic, kind of teleporting somewhere in a british colonial atmosphere) and roasted dry coffee catering angular toasted darkly (kind of licoricey and vaguely anisic) restraint. There is something steamy smoky in the air, something smelling like the coffee-vapor mixed with an aromatic cologne's exhalation while finally something smoother (probably by hints of well balanced tonka beans) slightly soothens the elements taming down the angular zesty-green initial angularity. All the elements are impeccably appointed as the most precious british business dress code. This fragrance is cozy and intimate. There is something silent in it as an early winter rainy morning (outside a gloomy wet gray-dark green forest-enviroment) while you are watching outside from your room's windows with a cozy little lamp in the meanwhile lighting up the room. Akro Awake projects well (in the average) and lasts more than 7/8 hours on my "sucking" skin. More then recommended if you are a romantic and saturnine introverted fellow with a struggling past. Simply a sublime masterwork of balance and measure.

Lovefest Burning Cherry 48 by Kayali

Lovefest Burning Cherry 48 is (after having tested the fruity-creamy-musky Yum Pistacchio Gelato 33 yet) my second olfactory experience with the (by the Middle Eastern heritage and its sacred ritual inspired) house of Kayali which was founded in 2018 by the passionate Mona Kattan and developed in collaboration with some of the world’s most renowned perfumers. Lovefest Burning Cherry 48 is a somewhat lactonic fruity fragrance (with the typically cosmetical warm-cold Kayali's balmy vibe) based on the landmark almondy-heliotropic balmy Kayali's accord as combined with cherry note (in a sort of fleeting black cherry-like liquorous nutty-creamy accord), a notable soapy rose and powdery woody notes. This fragrance is powdery-chic, sophisticated, bright and radiant. Definitely well blended with a good calibration of notes-dosage. It is drier, less sweet and more wearable than Yum Pistacchio Gelato 33. Creamy and fruity notes are more balanced and restrained in here. Heliotrope, cherry and rose play a role of absolute protagonists over a bed of ambrette, balsams and powdery woods. The balsams finally elicit a sort of sensual organic (tanned salty skin at beach like) effect which is really erotic chic and kind of glamour in vibes. Likewise Pistacchio 33 a sort of holidays-like (in the Amalfi coast) joyful dandy atmosphere dominates the scene. The dominant powder is cool, chic and poudrée. In the final phase of the trip a patchouli note emerges gracefully combined with cherry, heliotrope and rose in order to unfold an heavenly soft embrace. The smell is everything but original (vaguely a la Elie Saab le Parfum plus the balmy sherry) but is confortable, joyful and pleasant. Performances are really impressive on my skin (endless duration and more than good projection).

Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 by Kayali

This fragrance is my very first experience with the (by the Middle Eastern heritage and its sacred ritual inspired) house of Kayali which was founded in 2018 by the passionate Mona Kattan and developed in collaboration with some of the world’s most renowned perfumers. Yum Pistacchio Gelato 33 is a weird fragrance to be described. It expresses a sort of joyful "on holidays" vibe which is coloured, slightly boozy, carefree and kind of dandy. The smell itself is not bad di per sé but it longly seems kind of not well blended (at least appearing overly charged and messy for the main part of its evolution) till when the very long dry down starting to defuse its initial turbulence. I'm sorry but respectfully dislike top and central stage while tend to appreciate the final musky accomplishment. This fragrance appears initially cloying, overly sultry, pratically lacking of structure and smelling more like a cosmetical item (a foam, a spray, a wax) than like an accomplisced fragrance itself. You can barely perceive the note of pistacchio (a fleeting chemical presence) in the first two minutes of exhalation over the first spray when you can detect a cool inebriating and slightly liquorous blast of something nutty a la Amaretto di Saronno, than followed by a juicy fruity floral mess (frankly undiscernible) and by a warmer final sort of talky candied bath foam-vibe. The central stage is overly charged, too powerful and there is a too much stressed floral juicy fruity candied side. Dry down (along the way) defuses the central gassiness and unfolds a more tolerable white musky powder slightly rubbery, kind of jummy and vaguely conjuring a sunscreen. Despite the low quality of the smell itself (somewhat chemical-cosmetical, especially in the top and the central stages) and the messy alternance of elements along the way, my ponderated medium rating is mostly based on the joyfulness behind the olfactory concept, the daring combination of notes, the long duration of the notes' evolution, the general optimistic brightfulness and the final tamed candied musky pleasant talkiness. What does this juice smells like? Well, actually like a blend of nutty icecream, almond liquor, white musk, raspberries, pear, powder and leafy florals. Do not dare to blindly buy it. Finally, after more than ten hours of evolution on skin, the smell's perception and the aroma itself significantly improve and on this stage I detect a consistent resemblance of it with the final Agonist Arctic Jade's musky delicacy as ideally combined with the classic Body Shop White Musk (L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc is another fragrance jumping on mind for several of its characteristics). Shell it fit well to your daring taste? Just you could experience it for real. Good luck guys.

Enrico Coveri L'Eau by Enrico Coveri

Enrico Coveri Pour Homme L' Eau is a for men virile new "dynamic and versatile" low budget perfume by Enrico Coveri released in 2015. This is a green-spicy fragrance with aquatic tones and an aromatic herbal aura. L'Eau is a modern re-orchestration of the original and glorious Pour Homme (which was launched in the 1984 and was gloriously entering the clan of the mossy spicy/ambery aromatic powerhouses a la Francesco Smalto Pour Homme, Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui, Givenchy Xeryus, Van Cleef & Arpels Tsar, Borsalino Pour Homme, Lomani Pour Homme and many others). On this case the original concept is "watered down", modernized, significantly "muted" and re-mastered in to a less articulated salty aquatic brighter key a la Azzaro Chrome but in to a sort of more herbal and mossy spicy vest (overall in to a moderate way, I mean without sliding in to a pure straightforward salty ozonic "piece"). There is a sort of "middle nineties feel" a la Nightflight Joop or CK One (I quote the former just in to a conceptual acception, just in order to catch the L'Eau's main vibe which is a deflection towards something brighter as compared with the main 80's powerhouse's vibe). Anyway L'Eau possesses an its own special herbal-salty mossy identity which is partially connected to its older predecessor (the 1984 Pour Homme, a far more elevated, bossy, classy and "important" fragrance) despite the notable differences and despite L'Eau could not be properly classified as an Enrico Coveri Pour Homme's flanker imo. Other creations as Borsalino Chapeau or Ck One jump slightly/partially on mind for several of their spicy/musky/herbal characteristics. The initial accord of citrus, bergamot and violet leaves is reminiscence of several typical middle 90's accords a la Lanvin L'homme 1997 (Morillas) but quickly the salty aquatic elements and something laundry, musky-green, tea-infused, cedary and spicy/herbal a la Ck One starts emerging and shaping out the typical L'Eau's relaxing green-salty twist, like a brisk and calming sea-wave smelling harmoniously about saltiness infused with leafy floral notes, transparent musks, bright citrus, piquant/mild spices and green tea-like tones. A tad of spices (cloves in particular) cater a whiff of sweetness in the middle of a general salty/herbal aqueous muskiness. Sillage and longevity are on the average on my skin. In conclusion L'Eau is the right cologne for a spring/summer time weekend spent in the middle of nature (also raking around on a mountain) or for a long day spent in a garden with friends. This is a virile comforting kind of fragrance. What it smells like? It smells like an ideal blend of Lanvin L'homme, Azzaro Chrome, Enrico Coveri classic Pour Homme and Borsalino Chapeau under my profane nose. An easy going, decent and versatile fragrance for a man in his 40's that could be purchased with less than €.20.

Angel Elixir by Thierry Mugler

Angel Elixir was created by Domitille Michalon Bertier and Anne Flipo and it was issued in the 2023. This brand new Thierry Mugler's "Elixir" issue is clearly a completely different kind of perfume-experience when compared with its old notorious far cousin Angel Eau de Toilette 1992 (a fragrance that traced out the path and made the history of this famous brand). On this sense I'm definitely in line with the previous reviewer. This fragrance is basically a woody/musky floral semi gourmand a la Avon Silky Soft Musk 2016 and really close to the former in smell. The company Thierry Mugler declares on it that "It’s the soul of Angel, reinvented...a pure Elixir, expressing the augmented femininity of today’s fearless supra-women. Innocent yet powerful. Grounded yet extra-ordinary." For starterts, the Oliver Cresp's original Angel was a sort of hedionic/musky/fruity/caramellous futuristic (super innovative and inedited) new interpretation of a basically classic (and vaguely retrò in itself) vanilla-patchouli honeyed main accord waving in the "starry Milky way" with its icy/metallic floral accents. This new recent Parfum Elixir, as well as underlined by the previous reviewer, is just the shadow of the former Angel (actually being more in line with the ultra sophisticated younger sister Thierry Mugler Alien 2005 - appointed by Dominique Ropion and by the visionary sadly departed Laurent Bruyere - due to a common presence of sambac orangy jasmine, creamy amber and woods), a sort of somewhat generic, fruity jasmine-vanilla sugary syrup (nectarinic and cool balsamic) that is important to apply on the right way in order to avoind to deal with an overly cloying floral syrupy mélange. On this new perfume all the aroma revolves around a solid spicy, orangy and "icy wide" connection of creamy jasmine and soapy ultra sophisticated ylang-ylang a la Perris Montecarlo Ylang Nosy Be 2014 (which is a pretty common accord in perfumery) or a la heliotropic coconutty vanillic-cashmeranic Alien Goddess 2021. This accord is everything but innovative or unusual but in this case the molecule Amber Xtreme provides that kind of landmark "icy metallurgical" spark and in any case the main accord is finally something beautifully executed, kind of glamour-chic and hyper feminine. Do not over apply, performances are nuclear on my skin.

Habit Rouge Parfum by Guerlain

Habit Rouge Parfum is a brand new Guerlain's fragrance introduced in 2024 and performed by Delphine Jelk. It is a more modern (cleaner) and kind of luxuriously boozy take on the classic Habit Rouge's dandyism and its notorious "Guerlinade" by the Maison Guerlain (definitely something muskier and somewhat closer to the new 2003 Eau de Parfum's cleaner slightly oudish/musky formula). As well as for Vetiver Parfum I'd not define this fragrance as a classic Edc/Edt (1965 and following re-formulations)'s flanker since this new Habit Rouge possesses definitely a peculiar new modern vest which, despite being less complex, baroque and multifaceted, appears equally glorious and temperamental (definitely still inspired by the more recent Shalimar's formulations). While the classic Eau de Toilette smells gloriously ambery/hesperidic, rosey and wonderfully stuffy/resinous/vanillic this brand new fragrance (while definitely inspired by its - by Jean Paul Guerlain performed - illustrious predecessor) smells today very modern, yet "anachronistically and atypically" glorious. By this formula the stable vanillic powdery presence (the typical Habit Rouge's landmark trait) is not massively enriched by a barber-shop and angular spicy hesperidic infusion (decadent, introverted and vintage in vibe) but is couteracted by a luxurious more contemporary boozy presence really realistic, extrovert and "wide". At same time the massive hesperidic presence is in here replaced by a notable herbal/woody infusion mastered by a bold dirty patchouly. The latter is a dominant presence in its musky booziness and glorious herbal vest. I detect the Shalimar's references since also in here you can detect a sort of luxuriant rubbery silkiness (a la Dior Homme Parfum, just to make an example) despite the incensey leather is in here subdued and replaced by this aromatic herbal boozy woodiness enhancing the masculine trait. The herbal/rooty/slightly smokey (like for a peeted whisky) trait does not get dirtied too much the general dominant silky leathery mundane booziness. Peated distillate spirit and silky rubbery leather determine this modern cozy party-like convivial ambience that is the typical aura exuded by the Habit Rouge Parfum-wearer. The new Parfum is definitely an hard to wear fragrance since it requires a certain level of confidence, temperament, class, glamour and histrionics to appropriately vest and represent its glory. Habit Rouge Parfum (likewise the great Eau de Toilette) is an intellectual fragrance, still representative of a well cultured and seductive kind of refined gentleman but while the vintage Habit Rouge-kind of man could appear today somewhat retrò, saturnine, manneristic and otherwordly this new Parfum represents the tradition in to a more modern, international, dynamic, spectacular, extrovert and mundane way. Definitely a fragrance for a leader, an alfa dominant man which is used to master the scenes, produce hypnotic vibes and fascinate the bystanders. Excellent performances on my skin (sillage and projection in particular are an improvement over the Edt/Edp previous formulas). Excellent square bottle

Vetiver Parfum by Guerlain

Vetiver Parfum is a brand new Guerlain's fragrance introduced in 2024 and performed by Delphine Jelk. It is a more modern and less "baroque" take on the classic vetiver-theme by the Maison Guerlain. I'd definitely not define it as a classic Edt (1961) 's flanker since (despite a common vetiver/tonka-foundation) the two fragrances are conceptually two diverse approaches to the vetiver-theme. Parfum is actually a vetiver-founded dry fragrance full of depth, with a realistic vetiver's tone (really woodsy and mossy) and a general dry slightly smoky-licoricey woody boisé aura. This fragrance is far more "woodsy/dark forest" as compared with the brighter classic more airy/breezy/exotic (and unparalleled) Edt. The latter (on the vetiver-theme) is the epitome of the fresh, gentlemanly, exotic subtle elegance, it speaks us about fresh tobacco-leaves, refined and manneristic left back ages, fashinating white linen suited men, colonial pictoresque oceanic towns, far tropical islands. The Edt (also in its more recent formulations) unfolds a more articulated evolution and complexity. It opens in a dream-like breezy and energizing citric way with a notable bergamot, spicy citrus and herbal aromatic notes. Tobacco, opoponax and oakmoss define the base of this unmatched spicy masterpiece. The new Parfum is drier, more "massive" in woodsiness, less complex in evolution and definitely less spicy. On this forest-sphere it smells closer to the Extreme 2018 version (which is anyway crispier, less straighforward on the main note and more herbal/barber-shop in to a vague powerhouse's aromatic vest). Parfum (if compared to Edt) is a darker more intense take on rooty vetiver. Delphine Jelk stresses the rooty-licoricey balsamic vetiver's facets/nuances in here. By eliminating the citrus on the top the smells goes straight in to a dark licoricey/smoky vetiver full of liquorous rooty depth. Juniper berries and coriander provide aromatic greenness but you'll miss definitely the uplifting fashinating freshness provided in the Edt by citrus, freshly aromatic spices and wet resinous tobacco. Any floral articulation in here unlike what we've longly enjoyed in the Edt. Over the initial rooty boisé opening you'll pass through a gorgeous mellow realistic central vetiver (green and almost balsamic) in order to finally settle on a drier dark licoricey tonkinian raw vetiver. The tonka bean's implementation is masterly appointed in order to preserve the rooty vetiver dominant centralism without sliding towards an overly creamy sweet/nutty appointment. The final outcome is a commanding darkly boisé slightly licoricey vetiver with balsamic nuances. Licorice, smoke, aromatics and tonka are accessorial and just shaping the main raw material in here (just in order to provide nuances and refinement). Parfum is a classy assertive Eau de Parfum eliciting seriousness and "british like" tradition. This dry down conjures definitely the Edt but is more intense, less radiant and subtle (and I'd definitely add "less sophisticated"), it has a mossy greenness and a lightly sweet kind of boozy depth in it that definitely differs from the classic's lighter/airier green spice despite the two fragrances possess the same Dna. Longevity and projection are definitely powerful, the duration in particular is kind of neverending. Another worthy fragrance from the top House of Guerlain.

Coveri pour Homme L'Eau by Enrico Coveri

Enrico Coveri Pour Homme L' Eau is a for men virile new "dynamic and versatile" low budget perfume by Enrico Coveri released in 2015. This is a green-spicy fragrance with aquatic tones and an aromatic herbal aura. L'Eau is a modern re-orchestration of the original and glorious Pour Homme (which was launched in the 1984 and was gloriously entering the clan of the mossy spicy/ambery aromatic powerhouses a la Francesco Smalto Pour Homme, Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui, Givenchy Xeryus, Van Cleef & Arpels Tsar, Borsalino Pour Homme, Lomani Pour Homme and many others). On this case the original concept is "watered down", modernized, significantly "muted" and re-mastered in to a less articulated salty aquatic brighter key a la Azzaro Chrome but in to a sort of more herbal and mossy spicy vest (overall in to a moderate way, I mean without sliding in to a pure straightforward salty ozonic "piece"). There is a sort of "middle nineties feel" a la Nightflight Joop or CK One (I quote the former just in to a conceptual acception, just in order to catch the L'Eau's main vibe which is a deflection towards something brighter as compared with the main 80's powerhouse's vibe). Anyway L'Eau possesses an its own special herbal-salty mossy identity which is partially connected to its older predecessor (the 1984 Pour Homme, a far more elevated, bossy, classy and "important" fragrance) despite the notable differences and despite L'Eau could not be properly classified as an Enrico Coveri Pour Homme's flanker imo. Other creations as Borsalino Chapeau or Ck One jump slightly/partially on mind for several of their spicy/musky/herbal characteristics. The initial accord of citrus, bergamot and violet leaves is reminiscence of several typical middle 90's accords a la Lanvin L'homme 1997 (Morillas) but quickly the salty aquatic elements and something laundry, musky-green, tea-infused, cedary and spicy/herbal a la Ck One starts emerging and shaping out the typical L'Eau's relaxing green-salty twist, like a brisk and calming sea-wave smelling harmoniously about saltiness infused with leafy floral notes, transparent musks, bright citrus, piquant/mild spices and green tea-like tones. A tad of spices (cloves in particular) cater a whiff of sweetness in the middle of a general salty/herbal aqueous muskiness. Sillage and longevity are on the average on my skin. In conclusion L'Eau is the right cologne for a spring/summer time weekend spent in the middle of nature (also raking around on a mountain) or for a long day spent in a garden with friends. This is a virile comforting kind of fragrance. What it smells like? It smells like an ideal blend of Lanvin L'homme, Azzaro Chrome, Enrico Coveri classic Pour Homme and Borsalino Chapeau under my profane nose. An easy going, decent and versatile fragrance for a man in his 40's that could be purchased with less than €.20.

Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London

An interesting and peculiar fragrance from Jo Malone, a brand which I'm rarely impressed by. Myrrh & Tonka Cologne Intense enters the Jo Malone London's Cologne Intense series and the fragrance has been performed by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoul. This is a particular kind of unisex mature (and temperamental) fragrance which finally leans on the masculine side of the pitch imo. It finally possesses a sort of woody (slightly pencil shavings, almondy and a tad smoky)/resinous/kind of rubbery aromatic assertive soul which is the main trait of its temperament. This feel is the main characteristic of the final aroma which smells spicy-ambery (vaguely talky), resinous, smokey-kind of turpentinic-pencil shavings-slightly earthy, aromatic and slightly almondy under my profane nose. Almond is another key element providing a sort or heliotrope/amaretto-vibe and influencing the burning myrrh's vibe. That's what you are going to smell I suppose even on your skin. Florals (delicate and almost ghosty) provide an initial gracefull brightness as joined to lavender and a minimal tad of citrus. Along the way we experiment on skin a sort of juxtaposition between fresh aromatic lavender (and bright floral notes) and blazing/burning warmer myrrh. The latter is combined with sensual vanilla and soothing tonka in order to create a rich resinous vibrant soul. The latter features this cool spicy fresh spark of lavender and florals (throughout lingering around) till the end when the resinous trait recedes and a woodier smoky vibe keeps masterering the stage. Vanillic tonka is another protagonist in here since it balances the vaguely turpentinic myrrh's blaze in order to slightly sweeten the elements and to imprint a sort of nutty cumarinic caramellous almondy luxurious twist. I detect similarities between this fragrance and the spicier and more articulated Roja Dove Manhattan, a spicy ambery heliotropic accord which is finally fresher-spicier and less smoky-resinous. Finally I perceive a more than good projection (with its resinous licoricey waves) and an excellent longevity on my skin. A fall season/winter fragrance to me (disagree it could be a valid spring/summer days kind of fragrance).

WildWhite by Rockford

This fragrance enters the clan of generic metallic aromatic piney/minty fougéres a la Ysl Y Edt/Edp, Montblanc Starwalker, Lanvin L'Homme, Dunhill Valensole Lavender, Mercedes Benz Air, Bottega Verde Uomo Abete Argentato and many others. WildWhite by Rockford is a woody aromatic fragrance for men characterized by coniferous balsamic patterns. Rockford WildWhite was launched in 2015. It is a particularly "frosty aromatic" fragrance with several key somewhat balsamic notes as mint, pine tree, medicinal aromatic bergamot, fresh lavender, woodsy eucalyptus and musk. This fragrance is absolutely masculine and kind of cool, icy-tart, herbal aromatic (without any trace of sweetness or floracy). Musk, woods and citrus provide that typical angular tart sporty vibe while coniferous resins, lavender, white pepper and mint (the white mountain-accord) elicit the landmark minty frosty balsamic twist (the main characteristic of this little cool slightly minerale perfume). Unfortunately I perceive on skin a sort of kind of plastic/cedary/herbal feel throughout that slightly compromises the "frosty mountain-air" typical message this perfume aims to elicit. I can't detect any tonka bean in the mix despite after many hours I perceive a less notable tart/cedary mark and a more suble milder soothed trail. Anyway it is cheap and works more than decently as a perfumed "freshener" after the shower (either on cold and sultry climates). Quite versatile and dynamic it is a more than decent budget solution for lovers of a traditional type of designer perfumery and for sporty casual dynamic men.

Fleur Noire by LPDO

LPDO is an italian "low cost" little brand founded in the 2016 and focused on the reinterpretation (according to what many assert I'd say "quite loyal reprodution") of several best sellers of the international niche perfumery (Tom Ford Black Orchid, Creed Aventus, Montale Intense cafè etc). Inside an inner note the brand writes about the high concentration of the implemented best raw materials claiming their fragrances to be persistent and in line with the needs of the most demanding clients. They write about creativity as well but I'd not define this one as a properly creative brand. By the way, we can actually say that LPDO-creations are perfumes inspired by quite renowned previous creations of the most famous international houses. In this case Fleur Noire is undeniably a perfume (eau de parfum) inspired by the notorious Tom Ford Black Orchid. In spite of its messy and somewhat "plastic and dissonant" (fresh and weirdly sweet/bitter for a while) opening gradually all the elements settle down on this typical hyper floral and darkly musky Black Orchid-like kind of olfactory aura. The parade of notes is more or less nearly the same as the notes-list of Black Orchid but despite the Fleur Noire's good performances Black Orchid appears by soon wider, more vivid-persistent, more structured, resinous and darkly fruity (and musky). Despite the more than powerful Fleur Noire's sillage Black Orchid is a bomb (on my skin) if compared. Actually Fleur Noire is not exactly a Black Orchid's clone. It is more floral, brighter (slightly more citric), more precisely feminine and finally soapy in a more delicate, floral, balmy and demure way. Fleur Noire is a more subtle pretty floral fragrance despite its darker resinous musky side. On Black Orchid I perceive more the dark truffle's influence, the chocolatey fruity dark presence, the notes of patchouli/vetiver and the musky-resinous-woody texture (in particular amber and frankincense on the stage) while Fleur Noire is more focused on a fresh citric opening (mandarine in particular) and its massive central floral presence settled on a softly delicate final muskiness (gardenia and jasmine are the most prominent floral notes and vanilla and creamy sandalwood add a delicate musky final sweetness). Fleur Noire is marketed as an exclusively feminine composition and basically it is that depite personally I like to wear it sometimes when I'm on the floral mood. Gardenia, bergamot and mandarin in particular turn it quite fresh and sunny at the beginning while orchid and ylang-ylang provide a sultry tropical twist before resins and woods strutture the scent while leading it down towards more urban and classy luxurious (more properly feminine) territories. In conclusion Fleur Noire is an unexpensive (really unexpensive since we are talking about less than €.30 for a 100 ml bottle) alternative to the darker and more gorgeous Tom Ford Black Orchid and furthermore it can be better worn on sultry climate while Black Orchid should be more suitable on fresher climates and exclusively on a night time occasion.

Dolce Passione by Pantheon Roma

I'd like to talk a bit in here about two interesting experimental fruity creations from Pantheon Roma, namely this by now taking the world by storm italian brand based in Rome (unfortunately Basenotes does not progressively update the reviews-space on the Directory and at moment we don't have the specific page for Pantheon M Extrait de Parfum and so I'm going to exploit this space set for Dolce Passione also in order to draft a short review about M Extrait). Dolce Passione and M Extrait are two interesting implementations of the "plummy red berrish" fruity accord (one of the Pantheon's trademarks) and two particular creations for Pantheon Roma blended by the top italian performer Arturetto Landi (Profumi del Forte, Profumi di Polignano, Adjiumi, Morph, Pantheon Roma and many others) who firstly performed (Dolce Passione was actually launched in 2016) a fantastic semi-gormand experimental blend of dark chocolate, earthy truffles and red (berrish) woodsy fruits than more recently blended (in the 2021, the year in which has been launched M Extrait) the notes of M namely this gorgeous ambery-floral appointed in order to pay homage to a great woman appreciated for her discreet charisma and at same time its simplicity (exactly the qualities for which it is appreciated this gorgeous feminine Extrait de parfum). Dolce Passione is basically a powerful dark chocolate-centered semi oriental scent, a spicy (mostly saffronish) blend of chocolate, earthy truffle and a creamy fruity accord. This fragrance is sensual and based on a juxtaposition between a dark earthy (vaguely toasted-bitter) chocolatey "gassy" accord and a sweetly creamy and edible plummy vanillic (honeyed tonkinian) combination of red fruits. The effect is weird, mesmerising, sensual and captivating, a super modern creation for daring persons smelling mostly as a saffronish nutty combination of kind of salty chocolate and red berries. M is a more classy fragrance based on a pompous and theatrical dusty-musky main accord of jammy fruity notes of the top, a central connection of luxuriant floral notes and a final creamy-musky olfactory interlacement of ambergris, peppery spices and woodsy-musky vanilla. The texture is initially dusty-angular (vaguely wet-mineral a la Baccarat Rouge 540) and finally creamy musky, intoxicating, molecular and neo-baroque. High class. Fruits and floral notes provide a kaleidoscopic alternance of notes (plums, blackcutrant, orchid and rose being the main protagonists under my profane nose). Lingering all around I get the Pantheon Roma's landmark aristocratic "mossy-ambery vintage twist" that I catch also in R and Annone and that is a typical olfactory characteristic of this brand (a sort of coldly aristocratic neo-chypré and vaguely honeyed accord of absynth e/o aromatics, mineral dust, peppery spices and probably aldehydes). Both the creations are daring, bold and presenceful, a mirror of this great italian Perfume House. The fruity-factor and its special alchemic combination (in this case with unusual elements as chocolate or truffle o with more classic floral resinous patterns) represents the avand-garde new niche perfumery and these two fragrances represent two shining examples of new olfactory innovation. Longevity and projection are powerful as usual for all the Pantheon Roma-creations.

Kumkat Wood by Mancera

Mancera Kumkat Wood was launched in the 2013 and the nose behind it is Pierre Montale. This is a particular take on ambery vetiver being the latter the main protagonist under my profane nose alongside talky resinous amber, sandalwood and wet spices. Vetiver (initially wet due to fresh spices, citrus and grapefruit than more woodsy resinous, powdery and mildly spicy) is notable throughout while influencing this musky-cedary-ambery aroma and expressing a parade of different facets. There is definitely a certain ambery refreshing dustiness a la Chanel Allure Edition Blanche in it all around (being anyway Edition Blanche a different type of freshly ambery approach) and a certain level of woodsy "resinousity", just this Mancera's fragrance being more "agricole", tart medicinal, boisé, "organic", green and visceral if compared with its more "alluring" predecessor. Generally you can perceive since the beginning the tangerinic tonic freshnes from the notes of kumquat and the sparkling influence from cedar, grapefruit, bergamot, liquid spices (cardamom?) and vetiver (all of them in connection providing a slightly old-school barber-shop feel for a while) while gradually resinous amber and a drier resinous woodiness keep emerging and rounding the angles. Bergamot and tart grapefruit provide a tonifing tart slightly bitter/medicinal citric freshness which I like . The woodsiness is provided by musk as well. The former caters smooth greenness and works in perfect harmony with this dominant resinous amber. I definitely detect sandalwood strictly connected to vetiver in order to influence and determine the main lingering woodsy vibe. Vetiver and amber enhance the typical woodsy resinous vibe which is really a reminiscece of Lalique Encre Noir A L’Extreme, just being Kumkat Wood a less rooty-resinous (less stressed on resinous vetiver) and a more ambery and fresher cousin of the previous (Etro Vetiver and Etro Sandalwood are two further creations jumping vaguely on mind along the way for several of their characteristics). Dry down is lot about musky vetiver and balmy sandalwood which enhance a more white musky-ambery unisex twist (while opening and central stage are more leaning over a masculine side). On this stage amber imprints a sort of "civilizing" (despite dirty sensual) soapy-elegant and sweet talky spark (with a sensual resinous twist in it). In to a nutshell Mancera Kumkat Wood is an articulated citric ambery fragrance with lots of woodsy nuances. It is the signature of a female pretty friend of mine and on her it smells amazing and finally sensual (yet slighly dirty). On my skin the note of vetiver and the barber-shop feel are more longly prevaling (I detect definitely patchouli as well on me). This sensual dirtiness is one of the characteristics I appreciate more and it makes this juice interesting for captivating occasions and in order to create a sensual statement around the wearer (male or female, in either cases). More than good projection and longevity on skin.