Perfume Reviews by Callista25

Encounters by Francesca Bianchi

Sweet, spicy, powdery amber. This has the Francesca Bianchi DNA found in her earlier work with all the rough edges removed. Warm and comforting.
I am becoming increasingly sensitive to synthetics used in current perfumes, but FB maintains a good balance and doesn't overdo the woody ambers.

Epona by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

This is one of the quiet, introspective Papillons, like Dryad and Angelique, and the most intriguing one yet. I was first hit with a blast of cade oil, a scent that churns my stomach and swore me off some of the Bogue fragrances. Thankfully it doesn't last long before violets and ionones sweep through. Then a distinct soapiness. Then a warm, comforting animalic smell surfaces.
I get the sweet pungent whisper of horse fur, but this is a manicured dressage horse who bathes regularly.
It is at once civilized and casual, like a country estate with an idealic English garden where flowers are allowed to ramble a bit.
EDIT: Now that I have sat with Epona for a few days it occurred to me; this is Rochas Femme for horses. (The vintage pre cumin version). Femme was an intimate, soulful experience of a woman. The notes are very different in Epona, but I get the same feeling of being in resonance and connection with a horse out in his/her world. For anyone who loves horses this is a very heartfelt perfume. The "horse skin accord" is the most gentle, refined animalic I have smelled.

Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir

A dry, isobutyl quinolene-touched leather, like a leather purse or couch. I don't get an animal, or anything living for that matter. It is rather synthetic but well done. Drydown is an aromachemical woody amber. I must be too used to artisanal/vintage perfumes (and been around too many gardens and animals) because to me this feels like a rather safe foray into the leather category.

Dia Woman by Amouage

Floral freshie. I am not much of a Jean Claude Ellena fan, but I was sold on the idea of an office-friendly God Woman...maybe in that Gold Woman is an extravagant homage to No.5 and Dia is an extravagant homage to the ubiquitous floral freshie.

I love the bold, ornate Amouages: Jubilation XXV and 25, Lyric Woman, Gold Woman, and even Fate Woman. Maybe the idea of a safe Amouage was asking for trouble.

Narcisse Noir by Caron

Vintage edp: jasmine orange flower amber. I understand now why people go so wild for this. Pure elegant empowered womanly seduction in a bottle. I don't want to praise this too much because the prices are already ridiculous.

Ashoka by Neela Vermeire

Sweet, woody amber with ionones and laundry musk. In reviewing my laterest perfume samples, I can't help but think, IFRA and the aromachemical companies have succeeded in decimating an entire medium of art.

Nuit de Chine by Les Parfums de Rosine

Vintage EDC: stunning skanky fougere. The opening was the most glorious fougere. Then came the shocking hit of civet. Almost too much but somehow at home in the clean rosewood, florals and herbs. A luscious peach enters the symphony, before it all dies down into comforting furry woods.
Note: Fraterworks has an excellent demo formula of Nuit de Chine. Being a novice, I thought perhaps I had not diluted the skatole enough before adding, but no it is quite accurate! I recommend using Fraterworks ingredients where you can as the quality really makes this perfume.

Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

Vintage parfum: sparkling floral. My first introduction to aldehydic florals was Chanel no.5, so my first association when I smell an aldehydic floral is to compare it to no.5, but the vibe here is quite different.
Fleurs starts off with a blast of soapy aldehydes and the most cheerful flowers. I get an image of a grand white room filled with vases of every type of flower so no single one stands out.
From the outset this is not no.5. This is innocent, pure, sheltered femininity. Whereas no.5 has a haughty edge, Fleurs de Rocaille has people and walls to keep the unwashed masses away.
The sweet warmth of the Caronade joins in the symphony over time, but does not disrupt the Golden Age scene. I can hear Edith Wharton narrating...
Beautiful and of another time.
This was my grandmother's signature when she was young. It gives me insight into who she might have been before the burdens of womanhood.

Rumba by Ted Lapidus

Balenciaga Vintage: Plummy honeyed resinous mossy 80s bomb. Garish and over-the-top, like 80s pop art in a bottle.
It is interesting that the current perfumes on the market are so thin and screechy aromachemical that even this campy perfume feels grand in comparison.

Tea Service by Chasing Scents

Jasmine green tea. The opening is a photorealistic jasmine green tea. The eventual progression into white musks is a bit disappointing. Overall quite lovely in hot humid weather.
This is my favorite of the Chasing Scents brand. The others lean too synthetic to me.

Night Flyer by Olympic Orchids

Fruity earth. I read the original Zoologist Bat was a more expensive formula and the current Night Flyer is flatter. Having only smelled current Night Flyer, and after reading reviews about it being a perfume for vampires, etc., I was surprised to find it highly wearable. (Maybe that says more about me).
It starts off fruity, and then this intense damp, minerals note comes to fore. There is a strong frankincense note and earthy, ambery tones as well. It feels primordial but comforting. Like nothing else I've smelled. I am finding this one addictive.

Fiore della Notte / Night Blossom by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

Primal tuberose. This is what I thought Maai would be (it ended up tuberose and bacon). When I smell this I get an image of a charged feline stalking its prey. Decidedly female. There is no logic or empathy or spiritual aspirations. This is carnal force.
I am not usually a tuberose fan, but the tuberose here is melded with woods and incense and some animalic undercurrent. I am intrigued but it doesn't feel like me. I am not sure where I would wear it. Maybe to court or to war...

Snowy Owl by Zoologist Perfumes

I am a big fan of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. She has an incredible ability to convey color and texture into perfume and her understated style makes her vintage-inspred (Pandora), experimental (Onycha) and animalic (Le Serval) perfumes highly wearable.

Snowy Owl is quite a ride! I am hit with an icy, merciless blast over wet earth, like I am hiking at high attitude and encounter a predator. The perfume softens with coconut and what feels like feathers and the warmth of a living creature, still icy weather and damp earth and an austere predatory bird. Finally the perfume moves into a subtle icy musk. Fantastic work of art but not wearable for me.

I can see those who like cool or aquatic scents really liking this one.

Tyrannosaurus Rex by Zoologist Perfumes

Tuberose and smoked ham. Like Gardoni's Maai, I had high expectations that I would enjoy this perfume; all this talk of aggressive smoke...and like Maai, though the note list is distinct, I smell a camphorous tuberose blast over a base of smoked ham. Violent, like an olfactory gut punch. I must be missing something...or maybe this is an exact artistic rendering of the T-Rex spirit animal.

1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

I understand why this was named Marquis de Sade. This is a gentleman's raunchy leather. I get an animalic leather restrained by powder and incense. It feels like something raw is raging under the controlled appearance of propriety. I would absolutely wear it if I were a man. Might be fun to wear as a woman as well

Ambre Suprême by Les Indémodables

This is my first sampling of this brand and, though this isn't for me, the quality has intrigued me to sample more. I think it is interesting that others have called this outdated. I think it smells like a mainstream aromatic aquatic perfume done with quality ingredients, elegance, and nuance.

24, Faubourg Eau de Parfum by Hermès

Vintage edp is a beautiful sweet white floral with a chypre base to give it a sense of classical sophistication. It has a warmth and coziness to it that I love in perfume (Bois des Iles, Parfum Sacre, and Under My Skin). Easy to like and wear for me. Most modern noses will find it challenging. It has a grandness and powerful sillage that are no longer in fashion in mainstream perfumery, so sample before purchasing.

Rendezvous by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Pure sex. It begins with an assault of highly realistic civet, which is amazing because this is a civet accord made of botanicals. Then the smell of sweet musk, again realistic despite being botanical. Florals and fruit notes come in to soften the blend, but the animalics stay front and center. The projection softens to a skin scent rather quickly, so although not office safe, is wearable in public.

Spell 125 by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Spell 125, like all the Papillon perfumes, conveys a primal force. I don't get Egypt with this (I dont with Anubis either). I get a scene of a pine forest with animals, smoke, and walking upon an ancient ritual taking place. There is magic here.

This is brilliant but not a love. Might prefer to smell this on a man.

The Black Knight by Francesca Bianchi

The Black Knight is on the axis between Lover's Tale and Under My Skin. They all share that Francesca Bianchi accord with animalics and leathers to differing degrees. Under My Skin is the most subdued and comforting. Lover's Tale has a Cuir d'Arabie level skanky leather.

Black Knight is edgy and masculine but not does not assault the senses nor is it inappropriate for many social occasions (like Lover's Tale). If I were a man, I would get this and Etruscan Water. I have Under My Skin and will likely get Luxe Calme Volupte next.

No. 5 L'Eau by Chanel

Aldehydic citrus over white musks. Smells like a sporty Chanel. I don't really see much of a connection between L'Eau and no. 5. If I forget the association then I think this is a nice cologne to wear to the gym or on a hot day.

No. 5 Eau de Parfum by Chanel

No. 5 is not a beginner's scent, particularly in edp form. This is an 80s rendition of no. 5 reformulated in recent years into an iso-e-super, white musk mess.

If you are new to no.5 I would start with the body cream and Eau Premiere (reformulated but still pleasant). They are more modern interpretations. Then make sure you smell the parfum and edt before you make up your mind.

Coromandel Parfum by Chanel

Coromandel edp is gourmand patchouli, while the parfum is a patchouli front and center. The parfum also features a more natural patchouli with its earthiness in tact, sweetened and softened by white chocolate and frankincense. One of my favorites from Chanel along with Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, No. 5 extraits and Le Lion, 31 Rue Cambon edp.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel

A very well blended clean generic men's fougere with a touch of sweetness and powder. Interesting how even men's perfume is becoming sweeter. I guess we can't get enough sugar.

The best version of the Bleu series. Performance is like a cologne which doesn't match the price. Must be the synthetics causing nose blindness.