Perfume Reviews by Zgb

Defy by Calvin Klein

Smooth, fresh but also heavy without being overly sweet. I think that CK wanted to offer something in vein of YSL Y without actually copying YSL Y and I think they kind of succeeded in that. Will it gain popularity? I don't think so.

Dominant notes here are pepper and vetiver, making this fragrance very masculine. It is only slightly sweet and doesn't copy PR Invictus or Dior Sauvage in any way, which makes this fragrance even more interesting.

CK Defy EdP is dry, woody, almost smoky but never over the top in any of its own charecteristic. Rather under-rated fragrance that will probably never gain any serious popularity, but so much so better for those who recognise its value.

I highly approve of this work and idea.

Originality 5/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 7/10
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overall impression 8/10

Sauvage Parfum by Christian Dior

That's the same original Sauvage with the effect of a burned wood and resin. The more I'm smelling this, the more I realise how Dior "stole" the Chanel Bleu de Chanel concept, added more chemicals (read steroids) and sold this as "something new" while it's actually not.

This is not necessarily a critique, but I find it to be the fact. Dior Sauvage Parfum is perfectly well made and of high quality. There are several type of people who wear any flanker from this line. 1.) I really like this one, that's why I wear it - the fewest type of people. 2.) Other people love this, girls love this, I'm most certainly getting laid if I wear this - overwhelmingly type of people who wear this. 3.) Dafuq would I wear something that half of the damn city/country wears, I don't even like this that much - relatively few of such people.

Dior Sauvage is, I think, a victim of its own popularity in a way. One of the top sellers in the market for almost 10 year, as the original was launched in 2015.

Wouldn't wear this even if you paid me. Half of the city and the country, smells like it. Teenage kid wears it, sleazy guys wear it, grandpas wear it too. Well I ain't wearin' it (spits spitefully on the ground).

Scent objectively 8/10, subjectively 6/10
Originality 4/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 8/10
Overall objective impression 8/10
Overall subjective impression 4/10 (look dude, this or any cologne aren't gonna get you laid, sorry but that's the fact. Good luck though, I guess.)

Rating this neutral because of the quality and performance. If these were not up to the task, I'd firmly rate this "thumbs down".

1 Million Elixir by Paco Rabanne

Tested-worn 30.07.2024., didn't merit an instant review, but now I found the nerves to write it.

Violently, almost atrociously sweet and not very masculine. If you adore the original 1 Million, then 1 Million Elixir is a must have for you.

Thick, opulent, sticky sweet and very juvenile, teenager like. As much as I actually somewhat appreciate it, that teenage, sleazy kid vibe is unforgivable to me. Very attention graby in a bad way - "hey look at me, look at me please, yeeey I'm the best". No you're not, get away from me.

1 Millon Elixir offers nothing new to the market and the wearer. Conceptually it's that same story already told in 2008. being iterated yet again and again, this flanker being on steroids. I understand this has its audience and I find this flanker to be justified because, you know...the market and its audience really like the stuff. What I'd like is that this fragrance sits well with me and on me, but it doesn't. I'm not of age and the "type" of a man who would smell well with this on me.

As per how it smells, explosion of rose, vanilla and tonka paired with subtle woody notes that gives it further warmth. If we take under consideration the target audience, this is not a mistake, it's a damn good work.

I find the discontinued 1 Million Prive to be the most mature and decent flanker. Such a shame it is no longer in production. Has this line gave its best? That depends on your point of view. Popularity and modernism say that this can produce even more flankers and that this line has 10 more years ahead at least. All in all, not my thing but I'm kind of glad it's here, I mean the entire line, not just this particular flnaker. I was still in my twenties when first 1 Million came out, so there is a bit of nostalgia here, although I was never a fan of it even back then.


Originality 4/10
Scent subjectively 6/10 objectively 7/10 - pretty high, but I'm still rating this neutral!
Longevity 8/10
Projection 8/10

2 Wood by Dsquared2

Nothing special. Designated as a chypre but to me it's more like woody aromatic.

In the initial blast, you get a lot of citruses while yuzu gets to be the most prominent, lasting almost even to the dry-down. I find 2 Wood to be like a lighter, less dark version of Lalique Encre Noire + Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisee. Not great, not terrible.

The longevity is something to be desired here, as it's rather poor. This is supposed to be a summer fragrance, but the heat kills it easily. Maybe it could last longer during early, mild, sunny autumn, probably more than 6 hours in such conditions.

Characterly it lacks in everything to be a winter fragrance, while the summer is too hot for it and it dissipates quickly.

Originality 4/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity 5/10
Projection 5/10

Valentino Uomo Born in Roma Green Stravaganza by Valentino

Well it happened, they made a frag that doesn't remind me of P.R. Invictus or Dior Sauvage. I would compare this with Givenchy Very Irresistible For Men however not entirely as Roma Uomo Green Stravaganza lacks a bit of that french complexity and elegance.

Citruses, coffee and vetiver, probably slight of non listed musk. Simple and decent, however maybe tad bit too sweet for hot sultry days and definitely not for the office as it has a very casual, playful vibe. Overall very positive and job well done, regardless of that bubble gum vibe it shares with modern frags.

Originality 7/10, quite rare i can give a high rating in this section. Far from Roma Uomo Green Stravaganza being unique, however it is a very welcome frag in comparison with a lot of new releases for the past few years.

Scent 7/10 it really has a good, positive vibe
Longevity 8/10 it can push well beyond 8 hours
Projection 6/10, not a skin scent but far from being a projection beast.

Versace Versense by Versace

To me personally of the most decent, fresh and mildly woody women fragrances.

Citrusy, aromatic, woody and slightly floral fragrance that in the initial wave reminds me of Bvlgari Pour Homme, but for a very short duration. Versace Versense is very green, decent and smotheringly sweet like most of frags for women, even those "fresh" ones.

Casual, for the office or semi-formal occasions during spring and summer. A must have if you're a lady.

Originality 5/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 6/10

Light Blue Forever pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

Well done, no fuss but really well done. I have no idea why D&G went on with Light Blue Pour Homme Italian Love on expense of Light Blue Forever as they are conceptually the same fragrance. Almost the same, but not exactly the same.

Light Blue Pour Homme Forever has some facets of the original D&G Pour Homme mixed with fine citruses, making this iteration a bit more formal while the Italian Love flanker is more casual. I see how some find this one a bit synthetic and I agree, however I don't really mind that.

If you own it, few of the flankers might be redundant and vice versa. All in all a summer gem well appropriate for summer semi formal evenings.

Originality 5/10
Scent 7/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 6/10

Acqua di Giò Profondo by Giorgio Armani

Softer, more rounded and somewhat more sweet than the original Profondo, however still with that recognisable AdG signature. It's still a bit "mineral" smelling, but much less loud and more rounded.

I personally think it has a lot in common with the AdG Parfum, so much that someone who is not familiar with this line and theme as much as people from the community, would probably not notice any difference.

I have to be realistic. This is nothing "new" or different or unique from anything this house made in previous iterations, so there's no added value to this line with AdG Profondo Parfum, unfortunately.

Conclusion: yet another flanker that's not worth your money, I'm sorry. On the other hand, if you don't have any fragrance from this house or namely this line, being your first to try or you got it as a gift from someone - it's fine, more than fine in fact.

Originality: 3/10 actam rem agere
Scent 8/10 smells nice, recognisable and in congruence with the line
Longevity 8/10
Projection 6/10
General subjective and objective impression 6/10

Acqua di Giò Parfum by Giorgio Armani

AdG Parfum is basically bottle and name change for the discontinued AdG Profumo. That's it. Nothing more, nothing less.

That being said, this is a fresh scent with certain complexity making it rather suitable for evening summer wear and cold weather wear, rather than hot summer day wear.

AdG Parfum is fresh, aromatic, but also spicy and tad bit woody, becoming warmer and smoother in the drydown, retaining non-citrus freshness. Not an amazing fragrance conceptually, but an amazing in terms how it develops on my skin and how it smells in general.

A formidable flanker and not redundant in case you own the original AdG and any of other flankers, namely and especially AdG Profondo which is much more aquatic-marine in character.

Originality 3/10 - nothing new and basically repackaged and renamed AdG Profumo from 2015.
Scent 7/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 6/10
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overall subjective impression 7/10

Boss Bottled Elixir by Hugo Boss

Phenomenal work that exudes strong character and masculinity. Boss Bottled Elixir doesn't actually smell like a Boss Bottled flanker or any of iterations as such. It is very opulent, woody and on more than several moments it reminded me of Gucci Envy For Men which was more on the spicy side.

Patchouli isn't so dominant, but labdanum is very well felt, amply mixed with vetiver which gives the overall scent sharpness without actually being fresh. I'm surprised by the small note list, because I'm smelling a bit of incense here and spices, making Bottled Elixir very incandescent and oriental.

Boss Bottled Elixir is very sophisticated, woody, heavy and oriental spicy scent which note list seem incomplete. In the drydown the overall skin effect starts to emit a smell of highly expensive, refined chocolate. Longevity is over 10 hours and projection is more than solid for at least 4 hours, while the rest of its life it leaves the trail behind the wearer for additional few hours, namely 5-6 hours at least.

I dare say that this fragrance is worth every cent for what it offers. It's been a long while since I've smelled such high quality in a designer, especially Hugo Boss at that. It is so heavy and opulent that it's literally a high end niche quality. Place on my skin where I sprayed it was sticky like dried honey or some resin hours after spraying, so be careful how much and where you spray Boss Bottled Elixir.

Originality: 7/10
Scent: 9/10 objectively and subjectively
Longevity: 9/10
Projection: 8/10
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Subjective overall impression 8/10
Objectively, strictly judging 8/10

Hacivat by Nishane

Hacivat is like some sort of a hybrid of Bvlgari Aqva Amara and Creed Aventus. Not great, not terrible and most certainly doesn't merit the price for what it actually delivers. I'm not talking about the obvious quality, because there is a very high degree of quality here. I'm talking about the style and fragrance itself.

Vibrant, citrusy and slightly woody, a good whole year rounder. Office friendly, date friendly, potential clubbing - go out for the summer fragrance as it does have certain depth. In the dry-down there is an obvious woody and oakmoss notes which are well blended and not synthetic. Although a heart of the fragrance, patchouli is recognisable in the dry-down as well.

Originality: 3/10
Scent: 8/10
Longevity: 9/10
Projection: 6/10
Overall impression: 6/10
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Neutral rating due to the fact that it's nothing unique or new, but also quite expensive as well.

Y L'Elixir by Yves Saint Laurent

I'm not a fan of this line, so that's a disclaimer. Y Elixir to me is an utterly generic and ordinary modern fragrance that doesn't merit the name or expectations. Y EdP turns out to be an excellent fragrance in comparison with Y Elixir.

Y Elixir smells to me as if it could be something named Y Sport rather than Elixir. After an hour or so, it becomes citrusy sour on my skin and not in a good or unique way, but rather generic and boring. There are no citrus notes listed, but my nose feels them. Also there's supposed to be oud note in here, but I just don't get it. I do feel the lavander.

Anticlimactic and disappointing, but not to a degree for a thumb down.

Originality 3/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity 9/10
Projection 6/10
Modernity 7/10
Overall impression 5/10

Beau de Jour (2020 version) by Tom Ford

This is a classic scent, can't be more classic than it is. Lavander, oakmoss and patchouli bomb. It is however impossible to talk about this fragrance without mentioning a few other classics such as Davidoff Zino but much less "cellar like". YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme, but without its creaminess and roundness, TF BDJ being more herbal and green, also sharp. There is a bit of an echo of Azzaro Silver Black idea in it, but very distant.

This is a typical barbershop scent and not intended for a younger crowd, but exclusively those who appreciate a classic vibe, either for the reason of being a lover of such, or for nostalgic reason of merely being an older man. Tom Ford Beau De Jour is a fine example of an aromatic fougere, conceptualised in a manner that it can fit in the 21. century which is vastly predominated by sweet fragrances and ambroxan monsters. Fragrance for a whole year and every occasion except for clubbing.

Conclusion: TF BDJ is not a scent you fall in love with - ever, but rather one that you get to truly appreciate and respect with time, and when you do, that appreciation is everlasting and unconditional. Clean, elegant, strong and firm. Formal, sharp but also positive and kind in an inviting, decent manner.

Originality 3/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
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Overall impression 8/10

Tonka Cola by Mancera

Would anyone be a fan of someone barging in with: "Hey, bro, did you spill Coca-Cola on yourself?" Well, not really.

Sticky sweet, more feminine than unisex, but that's my subjective opinion. Vanilla and cherry are noticeable, very well done, and it has touchpoints with Mancera Red Tobacco and YSL M7 without the animalic touch and oud note.

What exactly do you get in this fragrance? You really get cherry, Coca-Cola, vanilla, tonka, and benzoin, all processed with high quality. Sweet, intoxicating, spicy winter evening gathering that I would skip as a participant in the role of wearing this scent, but definitely embrace as an admirer of some attractive lady wearing it.

There's something really sweet and sticky in it, obviously because of Cola and cherry, rather seductive, but I don't see this scent on myself. Somehow, I have the impression that Guerlain, with its L'Homme Ideal EdP, has managed to give this type of scent a more masculine character, or less feminine at least. YSL M7 especially made this type of scent more masculine because of the animalic, oud approach to this theme.

I would wear it in winter, in the evening, exclusively for my own pleasure while sipping mulled wine, punch, or good whiskey after a hard day's work, but in a solo setting and not in anyone's company. The fragrance is well crafted, everything is harmonious, nothing stands out too much, it is long-lasting and very projecting.

Originality 4/10 - this type of sweet story is already on the market.
Scent 8/10 - phenomenally done, but I repeat, it suits girls and women better.
Longevity 8/10
Projection 8/10
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Overall subjective impression 8/10

Joop! Homme Eau de Parfum by Joop!

Why this isn't a hype? Because it's Joop! and not some "name/brand". An eatable gourmand that is not a full-on gourmand per se, more being a spicy woody fragrance in my opinion.

There is a little bit of connection with style in the vein of Emporio Armani Stronger With You, but far from being a mere copy. What is positive is that Joop Homme EdP is not yet another iteration in the vein or style of Dior Sauvage or P.R. Invictus, what almost every other House did operating with the idea: "if it sells for them, it'll sell for us".

Joop Homme Edp is warm, spicy, decently sweet, ambery, woody in a soft and refined way without losing its strength. Rounded, smooth, creamy scent that did not, or does not, receive the attention it deserves.

First half of the hour, it smells like a nice refined punch or cooked wine, because of the cinnamon of course. With that cinammon being well felt, the note of honey is almost perfect. I've smelled scents with honey notes in them before, but none of them smelled that much good and obviously honey like. As it nears the drydown, Joop Homme EdP is turning into a nice smell of non-invasive vanilla and woody powderiness, while maintaining honey and well done tonka sweetness, with a mild mix of spices.

Can one connect this flanker with, or to the original? Yes if you're well acquianted with it, with this House, and also have some general experience in this hobby.

Joop Homme EdP doesn't have that urinal cake feel in it, more precisely it is not animalic unlike the original. It is not overly synthetic, it is very well made and composed. Not pricey at all, but smells as if it could cost at least double than it does.

For the autumn and winter, day and night. Can be worn formally and in the office if applied mildly. For the evening, clubbing, first date, second date...marrige. I dare say that regardless of its modernity, it fits better for the more mature men than the youth, while at the same time it doesn't smell "old" whatsoever.

Originality: 5/10
Scent: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
Projection: 7/10
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overall personal impression: 8/10

Spicebomb Extreme by Viktor & Rolf

Unlike the original, which is far spicier and more lively, the Extreme version is warmer, more rounded, understated, moderate, and mature. Having both the original Spicebomb and Extreme is not a mistake.

Both fragrances are for winter and evenings but not for the same occasions.

When to rock the original V&R Spicebomb: Winter and evenings. Hanging out, wandering around the city outdoors, clubbing, city holiday events. When not to rock it: Office, important meetings, whether private or business, school, or university.

When to wear V&R Spicebomb Extreme: Winter and evenings. Dinner parties, movie dates with your significant other, dinner, house parties with more mature guests, church, visiting her parents (phew). When not to wear it: Professional settings or anything related to work, school or university.

In short, Spicebomb Extreme is simply more mature. It doesn't have the dominating notes of paprika and pink pepper as in the original. Also in the original version, the vetiver is evident. There's no explosion of citrus in the opening burst. The notes of tobacco, vanilla, and bourbon add more warmth to the overall fragrance, while saffron still lifts it to keep it at least slightly sharp.

Originality: 7/10
Scent: 9/10
Longevity: 9/10
Projection: 7/10
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Subjectively 8/10
Objectively 9/10

Boss In Motion (2022 version) by Hugo Boss

That's basically the same old Boss In Motion that it used to be, while they were still selling it in a round, plastic bottle. Creamy, woody-spicy fragrance with a dominant orange note, or at least feel of it. In this "new" version the fragrance notes are different, however that zesty, peppery orange feel is still strongly present.

Boss In Motion is a bit powdery in a way and too heavy for the hot summer days. It's a whole year rounder for a daily wear and for the office, while in the summer it's quite suitable for the evening go-outs . I dare to say that Boss In Motion in a new square bottle is a bit less sharp and just tad bit smoother. Obviously the formula is not completely the same, but the fragrance is still true to it's former self.

Conclusion: sugary, powdery, peppery orange that evokes a good "urban move around" feel. Although originally launched in the "ancient" year 2002., it still feels modern and artificially cold just like it used to back then, but regardless appealing in a sporty-urbane way.

It reminds me of my late teens and early twenties and how my city (and the world), its streets, people, places, events, used to feel and vibrate like in that period of time.

Almost funny how it's mostly Hugo Boss fragrances are the ones with a tendency to instigate emotions and memories of the past and nostalgia to a degree, at least in my case.

Originality 5/10
Fragrance 6/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 6/10
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Objectively 6/10
Subjectively 7/10

Luna Rossa Ocean Eau de Parfum by Prada

Unlike the original, the Luna Rossa Ocean EdP is exclusively a winter fragrance in my opinion. Sweet, powdery and too heavy for hot, sultry summer days. Like the EdT, the EdP also has profound connection with the Prada L'Homme line, rather more than with the Luna Rossa line. More precisely, the Luna Rossa Ocean EdP has a strong connection with the Prada L'Homme Intense flanker, not from the note stance per se, but how it radiates on the outside.

Prada Luna Ocean EdP has no connection with the smell of the ocean per se, nor the scent is aromatic or aquatic but rather dense, sticky, powdery and sweet. It generally feels like 70-80% Prada L'Homme Intense to me.

Conclusion: as per the Luna Rossa line itself, I'd say that Luna Rossa Ocean EdT and EdP shouldn't be the part of the Luna Rossa line at all, conceptually being much closer to L'Homme line in my opinion. In this line, I think that the original Luna Rossa, Carbon and Black flankers are all you need from this line.

If the flanker L'Homme Intense is indeed discontinued and unavailable, then Luna Rossa Ocean EdP would be a rather good purchase. This is a good fragrance in its own right, but wrongly marketed and presented.

Originality: 3/10
Scent: 7/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection: 7/10
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objectively and subjectively 7/10

Boss Bottled Pacific by Hugo Boss

Inside the Boss house you can easily find anything better than this. In a more narrow sense, you can find anything better for the summer within the Boss Bottled line itself.

We've smelled something like this in the market througout the last 5-10 years. Boss Bottled Pacific has a lot of connection with Le Bau Male by JPG and a lot of other similar fragrances in vein with P.R. Invictus. With all the well deserved criticism, Bottled Pacific has a tendency to put a smile on my face, like some little miscreant kid which is not malevolent but simply very playful.

Sand beach, tropical sea and a blue sky, linen shirt and shorts, a hat on the head and a cocktail in hand. That's the general feel of it.

Objectively: this is already seen within other designer brands and really is nothing special at all.

Subjectively: Boss Bottled Pacific somehow manages to "persuade" you (or me, that is) to consider it a worthy part of your summer scent rotation and collection.

Originality: 2/10
Scent: 6/10
Longevity: 8/10
Projection: 7/10
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Overall objective impression 5/10
Overall subjective impression 7/10

Wanted by Azzaro

Yet another "oh please God why?" clone of P.R. Invictus. Nothing to see (read smell) here, move along.

Azzaro made a bit stronger emphasis on the lemon and ginger notes which slightly reminds me of YSL L'Homme. I'd take a stronger, pumped up YSL L'Homme any time, but that Invictus vibe just puts me off.

Originality 2/10
Scent 3/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 8/10
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Objectively 6/10
Subjectively 2/10

Hugo Jeans by Hugo Boss

It's base is pretty much the original with some elements of "maybe, maybe not Invictus". Hugo Jeans is sweeter and less sharp approach to Hugo Reversed and it's also a bit more "tight".

Mint and juniper berries are very noticable and prominent, making Hugo Jeans Man distantly similar to A*Men Pure Shot, later renamed into A*Men Pure Energy. Not to say they're similar or Hugo Jeans Man being a clone. A*Men Pure Energy is much more "screechy" and sharper.

Due to its apparent sweetness some people connect this fragrance to much sweeter, denser fragrances with which Hugo Jeans Man has no similarities at all. Generally speaking, this fragrance is fresh, spring-summer, casual but also sweeter and more smooth approach to the original and Hugo Reversed flanker. Conceptually it plays with P.R. Invictus idea without actually going into that direction. Overall I'd say it's quite mass appealing.

Originality 4/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity8/10
Projection 6/10
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Objectively i subjectively 6/10

I'll rate it thumbs up because I can't escape the fact that Hugo Jeans Man is very likable regardless of its lack of originality and similarity to many flankers of this line.

Bois du Portugal by Creed

Old school frag that reminds me of Givenchy Gentleman, Boss Number One, Chanel Pour Monsieur and a bit even YSL Kouros which is dirty and creamy, the others being more on an aromatic side.

Bois du Portugal is a typical aromatic barbershop fragrance of the 20. century eighties without big philosophy. Today it won't be a point of interest to younger crowd, even to a bit older people because one can get similar if not "better" for a lower price.

Unavoidable lavander and woody notes, but there's moss and a huge dose of musk here, even though it's not listed in the composition. Overall impression is "grandpa". Yeah, I'm sorry but that's that. That being said, I really appreciate the feel of it, personally liking this type of fragrances in general, however the price is too steep for what this fragrance offers. Due to that, I'll rate it neutral.

Originality 4/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 5/10
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subjectively 7/10
objectively 4/10

Aoud Forest by Montale

There's a little bit of this and that in here. A hybrid, sort to speak, of several already long existing fragrances. There's a bit of Davidoff Cool Water feel to it, then a bit of Acqua di Gio and maybe just maybe a bit of Versace Pour Homme. The entire composition is leaning a bit more to the masculine side.

When you smell Montale Aoud Forest , as if you smell the nineties of the 20th century, but in a good way. So, is that good enough? In my personal opinion, no.

There are dime a dozen fragrances in the market that smell damn well for the price, offer even more than this one.

Originality 3/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity 6/10
Projection 5/10
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Overall impression 6/10. Nothing special really

Gentleman Society by Givenchy

I don't want to waste my time typing a deatiled opinion. Givenchy Society is just like today's society. Bland, characterless and insipid.

The fragrance itself is vanilla sweet, powdery and "smooth", but also has nothing in it that makes a person with enough of self awareness to be intrigued or interested.

Originality 1/10
Scent 4/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 6/10
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overall impression 3/10