Perfume Reviews by JackTwist

Do Son Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

This tuberose-centered creation is softly accented ever so slightly with orange blossom and jasmine and seesaw balanced with amber. As such, it is a warm scent, ideal for winter wearing. In the summer a little bit tends to become heavy and overwhelming.
I assume I am smelling chemicals, not original oils, and as such they do a good job of recreating their namesakes.

Do Son is a dry, warm tuberose, not a bright, olaceous and sparkling tuberose, such as you find in Fracas. It's as if one was smelling it in a southern garden on a hot afternoon. Very pleasant, but not outstanding in any way,

Eugénie by Rancé 1795

This is a modern, aquatic, white musky, generic chemical of white flowers thingy, that smells very mediocre and very like hundreds,
if not thousands, of similar products on the market. Don't go out of your way to experience it. A spray in a boutique or a purchase of a single bar of the soap will suffice. Not awful, but not not good either.

Mystere D'Orsay by D'Orsay

Mystere – D’Orsay (1915)

At first the impression is that of dry reeds, wafting in the breeze, so I immediately thought of artemisia, though this is not listed as one of the notes.

Then the unmistakable sweet syrupy note of immortelle envelops the artemisia – again not listed in the notes.

The amber which is the core of the scent now emerges with the above two curling round it. Unlike the other reviewer on this page, my impression of the final development is that of blond tobacco, fresh from the drying shed, although I can understand the leather effect he perceives.

So fans of artemisia, immortelle, amber and/or tobacco will be pleased by D’Orsay’s Mystere. Findable on the internet, though rather pricey. I was able to secure a quarter ounce of the parfum for a fraction of the cost of the large one and two ounce bottles available.

Worth seeking out.

Grain de Sable by Nicky Verfaillie

GRAIN DE SABLE – Nicky Verfaillie (1977)

Top Notes: Citrus, Melon, Basil, Peach, Calone
Middle Notes: Papaya, Ylang, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Rose, Muguet, Lily, Carnation
Base Notes: Vetiver, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Musk, Sandalwood.

I had never heard of this house, which came and went quietly, with only three scents, released from 1977 to 1985. There are no reviews on Basenotes of its other two scents – Grain de Folie and Grain de Passion - and only one review here for Grain de Sable.

From the outset, let me say I am not a fan of oceanic, melon scents, mainly because I know I am not experiencing the real thing, just chemicals in the lab, made to smell like the real thing. That said,

We experienced a dry hay/straw note, which could have been the basil, with slight tropical fruit impressions (the peach, papaya, the banana scent of ylang).

There were none of the base or non-fruit middle notes.

Completely un-impressive as a scent on its own, and why on earth would anyone want to splash this on.



Rating: Negative

Grain de Passion by Nicky Verfaillie

GRAIN DE PASSION (1985)

I had never heard of this house, which came and went quietly, with only three scents, released from 1977 to 1985. There are no reviews on Basenotes of two scents – Grain de Folie and Grain de Passion - and only one review for Grain de Sable.

There are no notes available for Passion, but the impression I get is of a smoky, sharp, cedar with immortelle to support it and a bitter orange in the background. This is not a bad scent at all, but to attach the word “passion” to such a scent makes no sense. Passion for me would indicate a sensual, voluptuous aroma, heavy in musk, rose, jasmine and tuberose.

This is smoke without fire, passion without passion.

If you are looking for a smoky cedar accord that wears close to the skin, then you may like this. Just don’t be fooled by the moniker.


Rating: Neutral

Grain de Folie by Nicky Verfaillie

I had never heard of this house, which came and went quietly, with only three scents, released from 1977 to 1985. There are no reviews on Basenotes of two of its scents – Grain de Folie and Grain de Passion - and only one review for Grain de Sable.

Grain de Follie has no notes available, nor its release year, but it must fall somewhere in the 1977-1985 range. It is the best of the three, soft and powdery with a delicate quality sandalwood at its base. There is a gentle pungency that rises from the powder, enough to give it interest without erasing the warmth of the wood.

Very nice and of the three, the only one in my opinion worth seeking out.


Rating: Thumbs up

Gucci Flora : Gorgeous Gardenia Eau de Parfum by Gucci

Well, if you like to smell chemicals as opposed to extracted oils from true sources, this would certainly fit your bill. NOT MINE!

First explosion - the pear blossom, never existed in perfumery. So we have some pear juice. Then the jasmine - also chemically based. Well, not awful, just not good. And of course the gardenia, which is always a combo of tuberose and jasmine to begin with, (in case you are new to scents, the gardenia oil does not smell like the gardenia flower).

So, yet again, an attempt to use chemicals to make you think you are having a lovely experience. YOU ARE NOT. You are deluded.

Ultimately a sweet, vile thing, deserving to be poured down the drain.

So

Gardenia by Floris

NOT GARDENIA in any sense of the word. Not the scent of the flower, the leaf, or the attempts to recreate the scent of the flower.

This is blatantly candyfloss with a bit of green, herbal muguet and woody sandalwood to give it some support.

Floris employees have blatantly LIED to their customers to give the name "Gardenia" to this scent. It's a big rip-off. Shame on that company.

Stay away from this one if you love the scent of gardenia.

Southern Gardenia by Caswell-Massey

In 1980 Caswell Massey launched their Historic Charleston line, to honor the three hundredth anniversary of the city's founding. There were three scents: one for men (Lord Ashley Cooper); and two for women (Charleston Daphne and Southern Gardenia).

Whereas Caswell's own Gardenia scent was superb, one of the best available for many decades, they chose to market a Honeysuckle soliflore, morphing into a warm, nutty Mimosa (identical to the scent used for their floral line Mimosa soap), as their Southern Gardenia. By the end of the 1990s, the line had been discontinued.

Hard to find now on the internet but still available.

Charleston Daphne by Caswell-Massey

In 1980 Caswell Massey released their Historic Charleston line, to coordinate with the three hundredth anniversary of the founding of that city. There were three scents: Lord Ashley Cooper, for men; and two for women, Charleston Daphe and Southern Gardenia.

Daphne had the usual central note (for the time) of lilac, supported by tuberose and amber. As such it was quite strong and feminine, but by today's standards, very old-fashioned and for the mature woman. I did not care for it when I purchased the last bottle in the C-M warehouse sometime in the 1990s.

Hard to find today, but occasionally one becomes available on the internet.

Lord Ashley Cooper by Caswell-Massey

In 1980 Caswell Massey released its Historic Charleston line, in honor of the three hundredth anniversary of the founding of the South Carolina city. This consisted of three colognes: Lord Ashley Cooper, Charleston Daphne, and Southern Gardenia.

Cooper was the only one of these intended for a masculine audience and it was quite a beautiful scent indeed. Taking as its center the prized Bangalore sandalwood which lay at the heart of their 1940 Tricorn, and surrounding it with lavender, bergamot and vanilla, this rich, warm, woody scent was a stunner. It, like its other two feminine counterparts came in two cologne sizes and one small bath oil size. By their 1987 Winter catalogue, Cooper was discontinued.

You can still find it on the internet, but it is quite pricey when you do. Worth seeking out though. That Bangalore sandalwood, far richer and deeper than the currently available Mysore sandalwood, is a treasure. A big thumbs up!

Violette by Galimard

Violette is one of a series of soliflores, released by Gaimard in 1960. It is an honest evocation of the scent, dusty and fragrant, leaning towards the dry side without any added sweetness as so often happens with violet scents designed for women. This is equally wearable by both men and women. Recommended.

Muguet by Galimard

One of a series of soliflores released by Galimard in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. I have a quarter ounce of the perfume. This was originally released under its French name, Muguet. It is rather a strong version of this controversial flower - one either loves muguet or hates it. In its true form, as it is here presented, it is sharp and sweet. Not terribly wearable on its own, but when layered it certainly provides a strong floral base to build upon.

Jasmin by Galimard

One of a series of soliflores released by Galimard in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. I have a quarter ounce of the perfume. This is a rich and strong jasmine, whose green-ness has been modulated out by blending with other oils. Very pleasant and wearable by any and all.

Genêt by Galimard

One of a series of soliflores released by Galimard in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. I have a quarter ounce of the perfume. This was originally released under the name Genet. It is the most successful of the various soliflores I have experienced in my coffret, others being Muguet, Jasmine, Honeysuckle and Violette.

Genet/Orange Blossom begins with an interesting blend of Muguet and Jasmine, two contrasting natures of sharp and smooth. Soon the pure orange blossom emerges, sweet but with a very interesting "edge" (seemingly from a good induction of neroli). It is uplifting, joyous and delightful. One of the very best orange blossoms I have ever encountered.

Chèvrefeuille by Galimard

Galimard released a series of soliflores in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. Honeysuckle was one of these. I have a vintage quarter ounce of the perfume. It is quite true to its name, sweet and fragrant. Not outstanding, but an honest depiction of the floral scent.

Orange Blossom Eau de Cologne by Galimard

One of a series of soliflores released by Galimard in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. I have a quarter ounce of the perfume. This was originally released under the name Genet. It is the most successful of the various soliflores I have experienced in my coffret, others being Muguet, Jasmine, Honeysuckle and Violette.

Genet/Orange Blossom begins with an interesting blend of Muguet and Jasmine, two contrasting natures of sharp and smooth. Soon the pure orange blossom emerges, sweet but with a very interesting "edge" (seemingly from a good induction of neroli). It is uplifting, joyous and delightful. One of the very best orange blossoms I have ever encountered.

Lily of the Valley Eau de Cologne by Galimard

One of a series of soliflores released by Galimard in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. I have a quarter ounce of the perfume. This was originally released under its French name, Muguet. It is rather a strong version of this controversial flower - one either loves muguet or hates it. In its true form, as it is here presented, it is sharp and sweet. Not terribly wearable on its own, but when layered it certainly provides a strong floral base to build upon.

Jasmine Eau de Cologne by Galimard

One of a series of soliflores released by Galimard in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. I have a quarter ounce of the perfume. This is a rich and strong jasmine, whose green-ness has been modulated out by blending with other oils. Very pleasant and wearable by any and all.

Honeysuckle Eau de Cologne by Galimard

Galimard released a series of soliflores in 1960 in both perfume and cologne strengths. Honeysuckle was one of these. I have a vintage quarter ounce of the perfume. It is quite true to its name, sweet and fragrant. Not outstanding, but an honest depiction of the floral scent.

Echo Troublant by Vigny

Vigny – Echo Troublant (1932)

I can find no notes on the internet for this scent. I am experiencing vintage parfum.

This is a typical chypre of its day, slightly sweet, rich and dark. It is most reminiscent of the scents of the house of Weil, designed to be worn with furs.

The usual notes of musk, civet and castoreum, ever present in chypres of the day, are evident, along with the rose center.

Very pleasant but not outstanding.

Blue Casket / Голубой Ларец ('Goluboy Larets') by Novaya Zarya

Novaya Zarya – Goluboy Larets “Blue Casket” – 1940

Jasmine, orange blossom, muguet, violet, heliotrope

“Launched in 1940, Blue Coffret or Blue Casket is a fragrance for women and belongs to a group of green floral chypre fragrances. The elegant, twisted bottle of frosted glass with a glass bouchon was manufactured in Gus-Crystal and is presented in a lovely azure box with gold ornamentation and a rich silk lining. This perfume won a gold medal at the International Exhibition in Brussels in 1958.” – Parfums de Paris

These sets were sold in combos of one three ounce bottle of edp and one one ounce bottle of parfum. Invariably, when one finds these on Etsy or Ebay, the parfum bottle (though still sealed) has leaked and evaporated to a certain extent, indicating a poor original manufacture seal. It is rare to find two intact bottles in this coffret set. The bottles themselves resemble the onion dome tops of churches and minarets found in Russia.

How to describe the scent is difficult. It is a “sharp” scent, as would be a description of muguet, but in no way unpleasant. It is a floral mélange, but it is difficult to tell what flowers make up the formula, beyond the discernible rose and jasmine, and the muguet at the center. Perhaps floral oils native to Russia and not to the rest of the world were used. The dry down impresses with powdery violet.

A unique scent, for daily use and appropriate for business wear. It is not a romantic scent, so not for seduction or evenings out. The bottles themselves are worth collecting and for other uses. They are quite beautiful.

Vetiver by Elizabeth W

I hate to call anyone a liar, but Elizabeth W's claim that this is vetiver is pure hokum. It's never even seen a photo of the plant, let alone been influenced by its roots or leaves. This is pure white musk with some reedy artemisia and a waft of jasmine creeping through. Soapy and old-fashioned.

Mind you, it is not a bad scent, it's perfectly, though underwhelmingly, pleasant, but if there is any vetiver in it, I can't detect it. Nope, not a drop.

Due to its blatant intention to mislead the public and the fact that it is not outstanding in any way, I am giving it a negative review.

Salvador Dali by Salvador Dali

Salvador Dali (1983)

This is quite a surprise to me. I did not have high expectations, but it is certainly a stunner. A warm oriental, spicy and intoxicating blend.

The amber, frankincense, “real” sandalwood, and musk with a touch of myrrh, is a classic combo. The vanilla, jasmine, and orange blossom give it its floral lift.

Much in the strong style of Tabu, Youth Dew and Opium, this in its vintage version is an excellent choice to initiate the novice into the world of oriental spice perfumes.

Highly recommended.