Perfume Reviews by Schubertian

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

I'm a rose lover and rose-patchouli combinations are among my favourites. Sadly, on my skin Perfumista goes very powdery (even dusty) and I got mainly patchouli, rose and musk. It smelled kind of vintage but did not enchant. I wish I got more of the lushness promised by the advertised plum and raspberry notes, and frankly more rose and less powder. I've found several Lebreton fragrances interesting and well done, but this one did not work for me at all. I have to give it a thumbs down personally.

Oud Nude by Guerlain

First impression: Not sure why it's called "nude", to my nose it should have been called "cherry" or at least "fruit"... I thought I smelled cherry (jam) though when I checked the notes list it says raspberry and almond. Okay, to me it smells more of cherry. Drydown impression: soft, powdery, sweet. It smells soft and muted pink-coloured to me, not in a juvenile way but… boudoir? I kind of like it, it's a pleasant scent, gourmandish, and very fruity especially in the beginning - and sweet. Calling this an "oud" perfume is a bit misleading imo. In no way does it remind me of a streamlined minimalist Brancusi sculpture (as per the marketing blurb); hat's just not at all an image I’d associate with this scent. I'll give it a neutral because it's nice, even though it's not my jam.

Spiritcask by Jorum Studio

I had a very similar impression as FSOCI3TY, below. This is very enjoyable, though personally it may be a little on the sweet side for me. Still, I might want a decant. For me it's a cold weather scent for sure.

Rose Highland by Jorum Studio

Caveat: tested on skin but from a very small sample so only one wear. Rose Highland gives outdoors, daytime, pink roses. The rose note is fresh, a bit sharp and certainly not nectary sweet or powdery. Perhaps the mineral slightly metallic notes are what makes it feel outdoorsy? I thought it was interesting and might want a decant, but it's definitely a bit "different" as befits a Jorum Studio creation. It fits the warm season and I feel it's unisex.

Chypre Isli by Maison Incens

I like this. I find it completely unisex, and on my female skin I would even say it leans feminine. This is a lovely floral-chypre that smells quite creamy, even fruity - perhaps due to the ylang-ylang, but not as earthy as the oakmoss chypres of the past (yes, it does say it contains oakmoss but it must be in very minimal amounts). Perhaps depth is a bit missing compared to the classic chypres, but this one is very nice and easy to wear. The only negative point for me would be minimal sillage. It faded to a skin cent over the day. Nice.

Apollonia by Xerjoff

I don't get why this is so popular. I find it a boring feminine musky scent. I've smelled this type of fragrance so many times, it seems to be trendy now. I can't put my finger on it because I tend to forget them. It's not horrible, but it smells synthetic and definitely not worth the hype or the asking price. I also tried Ibitira from Xerjoff, which I thought was really pretty and much better than Apollonia.

Elegy by Jorum Studio

I don’t get rose or citrus. Rose is there subtly when I sniff my skin, but around me in the air I get a lot of lavender, herbal and dry yet sweet also. I like this, it says summer to me, but I wouldn’t describe it as fresh or crisp in the least. The powderiness makes it a bit oppressive. Lasts well with close to moderate projection. Perfectly unisex, I will say positive just about, as it is unusual and interesting.

Cheeky Smile by Jusbox

A completely synthetic concoction, a "no perfume" perfume. a vague powdery musky veil. Not unpleasant of course, but I've smelled this kind of thing so many times before because it seems to be so trendy right now. There is nothing new or interesting here. I can't exactly remember which perfumes I've smelled that were so similar and partly that's the trouble: they are so forgettable and anonymous. I can't help feeling that these types of perfumes are made for people who don't like perfume. Personally, I don't see the point.

Rose Infernale by Terry de Gunzburg

All I get is scratchy woods. Where is the rose? Pass!

Pluie Sur Ha Long by Ella K Parfums

Pluie sur Ha Long has a poetic name, but the scent is very mundane. to me it smells like shampoo or a shower product, and not a very expensive one at that. An aquatic floral that smells synthetic rather than natural. I can't say what "lotus" would smell like, but for sure this does not smell like waterlily (at least not like the waterlilies where I come from). At first I thought, ah: synthetic lily of the valley - though apparently there is none here. Feminine leaning, for those who care about such things. This has not been a brand I've loved so far.

Rose Pompon Eau de Parfum by Annick Goutal

Rose Pompon is a sweet, fruity rose. Raspberry brings the fruitiness, which isn't cloyingly sugary thank goodness. I'm also glad not to see black currant with the rose for once! On drydown, a soft non-gourmand vanilla comes to the fore. I don't get any violet, really. Rose Pompon is very pretty, but probably a tad too sweet for me personally. Projection is moderate at first and then fades to skin scent, but the perfume lasts through a working day on my skin. Like, but not crazy love.

Visionary Eye by Jusbox

I didn't get an amber fougere like some, apparently. What I got is a soft, very powdery scent with lots of clean musk. This seems to be trendy now. It's a bit more aromatic than some other similar offerings but ultimately did not hold my interest for long. I would not really peg it as an iris scent either. I'm disappointed, especially since it's a Dominique Ropion and I did not find it unique or compelling. It just smells pleasant and, to me, forgettable. (Oh, and I can't see how this scent has anything to do with David Bowie but never mind.)

Parisian Musc by Matière Première

Someone described this perfume as "white noise" and that describes it well. This is supposedly a minimalist scent but it's really overpowering and loud. Doesn't smell like Philosykos to me at all. Instead, it reminds me of laundry detergent. Not elegant, not sensual, not Parisian in the least. Yes, reader, I disliked it immediately. (There is something in almost all the perfumes I've tried from this line that 'scratches' my nose unpleasantly... perhaps it's the same aromachemical that makes them airy and projecting.)

1926 Turandot by Histoires de Parfums

On me 1926 Turandot is a vintage-style floral but sweeter and less animalic than real vintage. I don't really smell individual notes but the impression is yellow more than white flowers. I do like narcissus as a note, and here it is less realistic than something like Penhaligon's Ostara, and sweeter. Lovely. I don't see any connection to the Puccini opera it refers to. Unfortunately 1926 Turandot doesn't last very long: after around 5 hours it has pretty much disappeared from my skin, and I did miss the development into something a bit darker, the amber and leather. I got nothing animalic here, either. I like Turandot and will use up the rest of my sample, but I'm not - for the moment - tempted to buy a full bottle.

Rose & Dragon by Carner Barcelona

Unfortunately, the "wild strawberry" note ruined this one for me. It was just too syrupy-sweet and not like real wild strawberries. Otherwise it might have been a good dark oud-rose. (But please consider that I have a low tolerance for sweet and artificial fruity and berry notes; if you like those plus rose and oud, you may love this.) I'll give it a neutral.

Sensual Oud by Art de Parfum

This is the most polite, quietest of rose-ouds I've tried. It's actually a bit bland, though on the other hand that makes it an easy reach. The synthetic oud is very low-key. It's okay and pleasant, but I wouldn't buy it as I prefer my rose-ouds to have a bit more presence (I got a bottle in a swap).

Shalimar Eau de Cologne by Guerlain

A very nice version of Shalimar. On me I don't really get citrus (that's a good thing, since I dislike the more citrusy flankers). I get vanilla, soft powder, and leather or suede. The EDC lacks the smokiness (that verges on harshness) of contemporary Shalimar EDP. It's light, of course, being an eau de cologne, so I have to spray more, but that's okay. This is the "workplace-appropriate" Shalimar and I find it very cosy. Perfect for winter as a daytime scent. Glad to have it.

Poudrextase by Marlou

I really like Carnicure from this brand, but Poudrextase did not work for me. Probably the combination of rose, rice and animalic notes turned my stomach, and I had to scrub it off. Definitely not a safe blind buy even though this is usually billed as the most "tame" of the Marlous.

Xandria by Ormonde Jayne

Xandria is warm and spicy but also very smooth and not at all heavy or dense. It has a bit of the airiness typical of Ormonde Jayne, but still has substance. I didn’t get apple in the top (fine, I’m not a fan) but I think I got the rum, and cinnamon is in evidence. The drydown is woodier with maybe just a hint of oud, if I really look for it…. Despite a couple of gourmand elements I don't find it too gourmand. Xandria is really easy to wear, and lasted very well with moderate sillage. I’m not familiar with Xerjoff's offerings so I can’t comment on that. The Ormonde Jayne red line has been quite hit or miss for me (mostly miss), but I do really like this. If someone gifted me a bottle I'd happily wear it.

Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa by Annette Neuffer

I was wearing this and trying to think what it reminded me of. Suddenly it struck me that the different elements here add up to the scent I smelled in church the last time I was in a Catholic mass. The incense. There’s also something in the spice mix that’s a little too redolent of my kitchen cupboard for me. Sweetness, too. It's very nice, but I wasn't rapturous about it. The price is very steep.

Ambra by Jeroboam

A really nice amber. Ambra is a little sweet, not feminine but unisex I think. Maybe just a tiny hint of powder? No foodiness, thank god. Again, what can I say… it’s amber, and it’s really nice. Very wearable. There was only a little in my sample, so based on the small amount I applied I think it’s pretty strong. It didn’t quite last the day though. I had a vague reminiscence of Tauer’s Au Coeur du desert, but unfortunately I don’t have my sample anymore so I can’t say if this was at all accurate. I don't find it very similar to L'air du desert and I'm really surprised that a couple of people smelled Angel or Arbole by Hiram Green... A good amber, if ambers are your thing I recommend to try this.

La Nuit Trésor Nude by Lancôme

Oh dear, I don't like this at all. I know these are questions of taste, but this scent really reminds me of some supermarket shower gel or lotion. I get coconut and vanilla, and something in that combination reminds me of banana flavouring. I find it cloying and generic.

Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery

I was a bit sceptical about this one, having read some negative reviews. I guess I expected it to be a scrubber. Well, it wasn’t. It is actually rather beautiful – but in a rather conceptual way. It’s wearable. Wearable art, for sure, even though I personally don’t want to wear it. The sillage was prettier than the skin scent: I felt like the rose was wafting in the air around me as I wore it (a smear on both arms from the tiny sample: this is quite strong and lasted well). On the skin I smelled more the inorganic elements. I do appreciate this perfume and decided to get a decant to explore it further. I recommend any fan of rose perfumes, or just interesting takes, to try this!

Encore by Téo Cabanel

I got a sample of this and tried it with some trepidation because I wasn't sure about the description of carrot cake and chai latte. To my nose it did not smell of either, actually, though I did get some carrot in the opening. If there is iris, it did not jump out at me. Unfortunately I did not find the scent pleasant. After a while, I had to wash it off. I can't say what exactly did that for me, perhaps the combination of notes. (To add: if you are looking for a realistic carrot cake scent, I don't think this is it. I've made carrot cake a lot and this does not smell like it.) Thumbs down for me.