Perfume Reviews by yuncherrypops

Bois d'Arménie by Guerlain

Sublimity.

I can't properly express how I feel about this fragrance, but from the first moment I sprayed it, I've been utterly smitten. It has quickly become one of my all time favorite fragrances. In my eyes, it's pretty much perfect. It's difficult to describe how this smells. You can look at the note breakdown, but it's not really going to help you. This is a master class of blending. Yes, the dominant note is benzoin, and I'm sure there is some iris, guiac wood, and incense in there somewhere. But when I wear Bois d'Armenie, I can't dissect it the way that I can with other fragrances. This isn't about that. It's about giving you an experience, creating an atmosphere, a mood, a feeling. This doesn't fit at all into the tiresome trend of fragrances being about exactly what's on the tin. This isn't some "Santal 33" or "Vanilla Oud" or "Orange and Musk"; in that regard, Bois d'Armenie even sets itself apart from the rest of the L'Art et la Matiere series. Thank god they didn't call it "Benzoin Encens" or something silly like that. The name itself sparks the imagination: Bois d'Armenie, Armenian Wood (it sounds a lot better in French of course). In ye olden days, you had names like "Opium", "Samsara", "Egoiste", "Shalimar", "Fahrenheit", names that were meant to evoke an idea, rather than simply describe the ingredients in the bottle. Can we go back to that, please? Do we really need more ugly fragrance names like "Wood and Spice" or "Oud & Santal"? Anyway, let me get off my soapbox. I'm here to wax lyrical about my beloved BdA.

This is a gilded fragrance that conjures up a crepuscular, autumnal atmosphere. It reminds me of brocaded silk, a beautiful city built of stone, the rasping of dead leaves on cobbles, the cold breath of the wind, that particular way in which the autumn light falls at a slant that illuminates everything more richly, as if it had been passed through amber. There is great beauty here, but it is faded beauty, lost beauty. It's like an old, early color picture of a party. The opening is like being there, feeling totally present, smelling the beautiful people in expensive clothes, seeing the candlelight refracted through the crystal champagne flutes, feeling the serotinal chill slowly being warded off by a roaring fire. There is something liqueur-like in the opening, almost akin to the boozy vanilla note in Spiriteuse Double Vanille or Tonka Imperiale. But as the fragrances dries, the richness and slight booziness of the opening fades. The characteristic Guerlain dustiness begins to take over, powdery incense and resins and patchouli and woods, a wisp of smoke from a burning leaf of papier d'Armenie which is slowly but surely burning away to ashes. The color has been drained to sepia, the fire has died, the wine's all been drunk, the candles blown out by the wind. All that remains is the room which has absorbed the reverie, retains the perfumes of the ladies, the smoke of the fire and the extinguished cigars, the spilt brandy, the baking sweets. And through the window the city lights blink out one by one.

This is a masterpiece, one of the best in a house full of greats. The quality, blending, and performance are all superb (though this is not a beast). It is expensive, but totally worth it. Memoirs of a Trespasser doesn't even come close. But this is a very personal fragrance for me. It might not be for everyone. Try before you buy, for sure. Then join the cult, like I did.

10/10

Lui by Guerlain

A nice fragrance, but ultimately too light.

First, let me dispel a myth about this fragrance - namely, it's similarity to Bois d'Armenie, which I own and consider to be a masterpiece and one of my all-time favorites. Though I guess you could say that they're in the same genre, they absolutely do NOT smell the same, at all. Bois d'Armenie has an almost liqueur-like vibe which dries down to a smooth, silky, and dry blend of benzoin and woods with a powdery touch.

By comparison, Lui is waaaaay spicier. Yes, Bois d'Armenie has coriander and pink pepper, but they are far in the background. In Lui, the cloves are front and center, folded into wisps of smoke. There's also a big carnation tone, and a big old dollop of musk. In addition, there is a dominant vanilla note, while Bois d'Armenie draws its sweetness from the benzoin.

Smelling them side by side, in the drydown they start to become a little bit similar. But to me it's like apples and oranges. Bois d'Armenie is not just about the notes, but the feel, the aura, the texture. Lui is a Guerlain, and so I was bound to like it, but if you're looking to get Lui as a replacement for Bois d'Armenie, I'm sorry friend, but they're just on the same level.

Despite clearly favoring Bois d'Armenie, though, I still enjoy Lui, and often wear it to bed. Like BdA, it is a beautifully blended fragrance, so smooth that nothing in particular stands out. This is an atmosphere, a mood, not anything so quotidian as "Vanilla Tonka" or "Incense Leather". To me, Lui is a particularly autumnal fragrance. When I smell it, I imagine a shop full of curiosities that you stumble into off a side street in a European capital choking on golden leaves. The shop owner is burning benzoin resin in a brazier, and the sweet but musty scents of moldering books and dusty curios and teak chests that still retain the residues of its long forgotten contents.

But then I imagine that shop as being somehow sexy. Yes, I think that Lui is quite a sensual fragrance. I think it has something to do with the musk combined with the vanilla. It holds onto the skin in a very alluring way. Maybe there's some dark eyed beauty wandering the shelves.

If I had to group them together, I'd classify Lui as the autumn version of Bois d'Armenie, which to me is a strictly winter perfume. It's for wearing with a black leather jacket and a black turtleneck and being artsy fartsy and classy on a crisp autumn evening. Bois d'Armenie is far more regal, more opulent, fit for the most lavish occasions.

If you can get it for what I got it for, which was around $60, get it. But now that they've repackaged it into the new bottle with a new price tag? Mmmm no. The performance, unlike Bois d'Armenie, is way too light. Skin scent is putting it mildly.

7.5/10

Fuel for Men / DK Men by Donna Karan

This is incredible.

The opening is heady and boozy; it smells almost like sniffing some kind of fruit liqueur straight from the bottle. Then you get this intoxicating deep, oily vibe, and one of the most realistic and wonderful suede accords I've ever smelled in fragrance. Soon, semi-sweet pipe tobacco joins the chorus with a smidgen of dried fruit and a brace of powdery 90s lavender. It's really kind of hard describe because it's so well blended and so delicious I don't really even care to analyze it. Simply put, this is a fantastic work of perfumery that still stands the test of time. You could drop this today and it would still sell well. It's a shame this isn't produced anymore, like so many gems from back in the day. Now time to go and search for a bottle...

9.5/10

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

I somehow lucked out and got a 100ml 2001 vintage with the built-in sprayer for around $30.

Man this is amazing stuff.

The opening of Au Masculin immediately brings a few different things to mind. You certainly get a green ivy-vibe, an herbal twist, and some definite booziness which brings to mind absinthe, Jägermeister, and Chartreuse. However, from the outset the powdery vanilla and tonka of the base can be smelt loud and clear.

The clash between greenness and powdery coumarin sweetness immediately reminds me of barbershop fougère fragrances. It also instantly calls a few other 90s and early 2000s staples to mind: Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male (1995), Versace’s The Dreamer (1996), and Armani’s Code (2004). Yes, Au Masculin definitely smells like a product of its time, and that fresh, clean, powdery, cologne-like barbershop vibe remains throughout the life of the fragrance.

Personally, I quite like that part of the fragrance, as I own and love The Dreamer and quite like Le Male and Code. Smelling it instantly takes me back to the late 90s and early 2000s – the scents that people wore, the optimism and hope, the vibrancy of the times. It’s like a little time machine to a happier, simpler time. However, if you aren’t all that keen on fragrances like that, you might not enjoy Au Masculin.

Soon, through a veil of booze and vanilla, the licorice begins to emerge. This is where it begins to differentiate itself from stuff like Le Male. On skin, there is a bitter but candy-like licorice vibe that really does smell like a bag of freshly opened licorice wheels. This blends perfectly with the herbal touches (which retreat in the drydown) and the emergent vanilla-praline-tonka bean powder base.

The closer you get to skin, the more bitter, herbal, green, and licoricey the fragrance smells, while in the air you get a rich, dense, creamy vanilla kind of scent with a touch of licorice and those clean barbershoppy flourishes. I love the smell so much; it reminds me of a thick, creamy shaving foam mixed with vanilla ice cream and licorice syrup.

In the deep drydown, the sweetness starts to fade a bit as the woods appear out of a fog of powder and vanilla, but unfortunately the greenness is nowhere to be found at this stage, just a humming warmth. That warm, woody, vanillaey, powdery sweetness is all that remains on skin for hours and hours.

Performance is strong but not overwhelming, and I find Au Masculin to be very long-lasting.

Definitely pick it up if you find it! It is wonderful, and I wanna hit myself for ignoring this for so long.

9.5/10

Noir Exquis by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Noir Exquis absolutely a gourmand fragrance, but it never forgets that it’s a perfume, not a holiday candle. The gourmand elements, such as coffee, chestnut, vanilla, and maple syrup, are front-and-center in the blend, but they’re cocooned with florals and woods and employed in such a way that they’re never too much – never too sweet, never too vanillic, never too juvenile or crass.

In line with L’Artisan’s long history, this is an exquisitely blended perfume created with a sense of elegance, sophistication, and care.

The opening is a broadside of juicy orange, powdery heliotrope and orange blossom, chestnut, and a deep, rich, almost boozy vanilla, reminiscent of real vanilla extract. Soon, though, everything starts to come into focus.

The orange fades, and the coffee starts to bubble up from beneath a golden haze of maple. This is not a harsh, bitter coffee like in By Kilian’s Intoxicated or Sebastiane’s Espresso Royale, but more like the pleasing wafts you might get when you come down for breakfast and a fresh pot of coffee has just been brewed. This coffee blends seamlessly with the chestnut and the thick, boozy, and slightly smoky vanilla.

As time goes on, the ebony wood comes more to the fore, and overall the fragrance becomes drier and less sweet. The heliotrope and orange blossom provide a lush, velveteen texture. Where other gourmand fragrances might eschew floral notes altogether, these flowers are used skillfully to add a suppleness to the fragrance that elevates it from a simple vanilla to something more complex and balanced.

What you’re left with for hours and hours after initial application is a warm, sensual vanilla flecked with coffee beans, white flowers, a drizzle (not too much) of maple syrup, and dry woods.

Performs exactly like an EDP, so good longevity and not-so-good projection and sillage. But I'm okay with that.

8/10

Sumo Wrestler by J-Scent

I like it, but I don't love it.

Sumo Wrestler is based on the scent of bintsuke, a kind of hair wax made from soy that is used to keep the elaborate, gingko-leaf shaped sumo coiffures in place. Evidently, it has a very distinctive, sweet, strong, and apparently incredibly appealing aroma.

Although I have been to Japan, I unfortunately never had the opportunity to see a sumo match or meet any sumo wrestlers, so I can’t comment on how close to the real deal Sumo Wrestler actually comes. That being said, however, Sumo Wrestler is a very nice fragrance, and I can detect the Japanese influences in it quite clearly.

Sumo Wrestler does not have the typical pyramidal structure of most fragrances, and so it doesn’t evolve much over time.

In the opening, you get a burst of florals - particularly, to my nose, violet and a boatload of powdery heliotrope - tempered with a small splash of orange. After the opening barrage, though, the fragrance quickly settles down to its principal scent profile.

That profile, to me, is dominated by a blend of musk, sandalwood, a combo of violet and heliotrope, and a little twang from anise. As time goes on, the sandalwood emerges more and more as the star of the show, but no single note is ever stealing the spotlight. This is a very well blended fragrance, smooth in an effortless kind of way.

There is a barbershop vibe to the fragrance akin to something like Invasion Barbare by MDCI Parfums or 1725 by Histoire de Parfums, as well as an incense tone that is definitely reminiscent of Japanese temple incense, a callback to sumo’s origins in Shintoism. However, the fragrance is overall a pretty powdery (even baby/talcum powdery) and sweet affair; the notes combine in such a way to create a musky, powdery vanilla accord.

If there’s anything I would’ve liked more out of the fragrance, it’s a little bit more sharpness or “kick” from something like the eucalyptus, anise, or citrus, at least in the opening.

However, from start to finish, this is a smooth, fuzzy kind of experience that is not likely to offend or turn up anyone’s nose, something which is very much in line with Japanese attitudes towards fragrances. Despite its similarity to barbershop fragrances, this is a scent that definitely has a calm, collected, and minimalist Japanese vibe about it that I do enjoy.

If I were to describe Sumo Wrestler in a few words they’d be: warm, fuzzy, creamy, powdery, smooth, musky, and floral.

Performance is pretty good. I get around 6-8 hours of longevity, soft but fairly consistent projection for the first two hours, and polite sillage. This kind of performance is perfect for Japanese tastes.

Overall, Sumo Wrestler is a nice fragrance, but unfortunately it doesn't really excite me. Whenever I wear it I think, "This is nice! I should wear it more often." Then I completely forget about it. It doesn't leave much of a lasting impression, sad to say. In the end, I love the idea of the fragrance more than the actual fragrance itself. I think I will stick to Musc Ravageur in this genre, as it's a more memorable and daring composition, but I'm still glad to have Sumo Wrestler in my collection for the moment.

7/10

Costume National Homme Parfum by Costume National

Big, big love

Costume National Homme Parfum is a spice bomb of epic proportions. I will caution you: if you don’t like spicy fragrances, STAY AWAY.

However, if you are a lover of spices like myself, Costume National Homme Parfum might just be heaven for you.

The fragrance opens up with a blast of grapefruit and the distinctive, licoricey twang of green cardamom pods. While I’m not a big fan of cardamom in food other than as an accent note (it always makes my tongue dry out), I absolutely love the smell of cardamom. This has one of the most realistic and zingy cardamom notes I’ve encountered so far, and so I was in love from first spray.

Soon, a massive wave of red-hot cinnamon rolls in, accompanied by a brace of earthy vetiver and patchouli. As the fragrance dries down, a distinct note of creamy sandalwood begins to emerge, adding a lush, smooth texture to the fragrance and rounding out the harsh edges. There’s also an irissy tone almost reminiscent of the drydown of Dior Homme Parfum, though it’s faint, only serving to give the fragrance a lustrous lacquer.

Finally, after hours and hours of wear, you’re left with a combination of buttery sandalwood, patchouli, musk, and labdanum flecked with spices.

The scent profile of this fragrance is absolutely wonderful. At once it reminds me of Christmas potpourri, ambery fragrances from the 70s, and the souks of Morocco, but smoothed over, modernized, and tastefully packaged.

I vastly prefer this over the original eau de parfum, which I tried a number of times but never could convince myself to enjoy.

The eau de parfum and Costume National Homme Parfum are quite similar in terms of scent, but the differences all come down to the levels of certain ingredients.

The original was similarly spicy, but absolutely dominated by cloves. Cloves and I have a difficult relationship; I do enjoy some fragrances with cloves in them, such as Portrait of a Lady and Musc Ravageur, both by Frederic Malle, but on the whole I really don’t particularly enjoy cloves, either in fragrance or in food. The original also had a funky, herbal thyme note which clashed with the other notes in an unappealing manner, in my opinion.

The parfum significantly tones down on the cloves. While cloves are still present in the mix, they are no longer the star of the show. Cardamom and cinnamon fill in for them instead. Additionally, the thyme note has been entirely removed, the greenness it brought having been replaced with vetiver and the anisic bite of the cardamom.

These changes, in my view, dramatically improve upon the original fragrance. The materials here also seem much higher quality, particularly the sandalwood, giving the parfum a roundness, smoothness, and balance which I did not find in the original.

When I wear this fragrance, I envision a well-groomed man in his late 20s or early 30s, perhaps wearing a dark olive green suit. He is well traveled, worldly, and balanced, completely in his element. I think that it would be the perfect fragrance for a poet, philosopher, writer, scholar, or artsy types.

In a few words, Costume National Homme Parfum is: rich, smooth, spicy, creamy, woody, dark green, exotic, and festive.

Performance is absolute beastly. 2-3 sprays max. 1 if you're wearing it to the office. Longevity is 12-14 hours for me and usually lasts through two showers.

If you didn't like the original but like the idea of the original, give this a try. You just might fall in love.

9.5/10

Pour Un Homme Sport by Caron

A solid summer scent.

The smell from the atomizer made me think this wasn't going to be my thing. It smelled way too thick, dense, plasticky, almost Play-Doh like. However, it smells much, much better on skin. It is still dense, but there's also a breeziness to it that keeps it uplifting and eminently refreshing. To borrow some associations from other reviewers: it's like a decadent slice of key lime pie just taken out of the fridge and eaten on the terrace, or a lime creamsicle on a hot July day, so cold it gives you brainfreeze. It does have a quasi-gourmand vibe, though I wouldn't go so far as to classify it as such. Key lime pie is my favorite dessert, and it's next to impossible to find here in Taiwan, so this fragrance does make me feel a little bit homesick, in a good way. But I digress.

"Warm" and "cold" accords are juxtaposed quite well - the central mass of benzoin, tonka, ambergris, white musk, and cedar, all of which combine to convey a sense of creaminess and density, is balanced with an aromatic brace of verbena, ginger, lavender, and citrus, which blow cold air onto the composition. This is where the "mintiness" is coming from, no doubt. The one thing I wish is that this had a little bit more of a gingery zing. Although the opening has some sharp zestiness to it, over time that fades as the scent fully embraces the dreamy creaminess of the benzoin/tonka/ambergris/lavender.

Overall, I'm a big fan of this fragrance. Surprisingly, given my skin's tendency to eat up anything scented, I get great performance with this one, around 8-9 hours. This is one of the only fragrances I have that can last a fully work day, and is still quite detectable as a skin scent at the end of that window. I bought my 50ml bottle for around $35, and I'd say it's a great deal considering. Is it my favorite summer scent? No, but I'll definitely be reaching for it on the hot days when I want a real feeling of refreshment.

8.5/10

This is Him! by Zadig & Voltaire

Sexy woodsy vanillic incense.

This smells fantastic. It's a pretty simple scent overall, as evinced by the note breakdown. The opening is a blast of pencil shavingsy/raw woodsy ISO E-Super coupled with black pepper and quickly settles into the main act: smoky incense mingled with woods, pepper, and creamy vanilla. It does feel synthetic, but not overly. There's little to no evolution, save for the vanilla growing more prominent as the fragrance dries down. But that's fine by me, because it smells wonderful. This is as a slick, sexy, night on the town in an all-black outfit kind of scent, as has been enumerated by numerous reviewers already.

My main problem with this is that the performance is much softer than I'd like. At least, I think it's soft - I could very well be anosmic to the ISO E-Super. But unfortunately I think this is another case of my-skin-eats-everything. I get around 3-4 hours of longevity, and it's almost an instant skin scent. I love the smell, so whenever I wear it I keep my bottle around to replenish periodically, but I can't help but wish that it would just last longer. I have a 20ml bottle, but the juice is so weak (and my love of the scent itself so strong) that I've depleted almost 3/4s of it in 2 months of ownership. If it only lasted a little longer this would easily be one of my signature scents. C'est la vie. I won't be upgrading to a larger bottle when the 20ml is gone, but I am interested in checking out Just Rock!, as I've heard that it performs better and is similar to This Is Him!, for a similar price on the discounters.

Overall, this is really nice, sexy, and fairly unique (for a designer) fragrance for fall and winter evenings. If it performs on your skin, then this could very well be a great option for you. Unfortunately, it doesn't quite tick my box.

7/10

Amyris Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Maybe I'm just not familiar with the smell of amyris, but to me this smells like little more than soapy tonka with vague floral nuances and a smidgen of coconutty creaminess. I will echo other reviewers' assessment of this as little more than a high end designer fragrance. Not that it smells bad - far from it. It's well blended and likeable, though I certainly don't get any coffee, chocolate, or oud. But I think this is far from Monsieur Kurkdijan's best work. I get limited longevity, projection, and sillage as well, which I've come to expect from MFK EDTs. This is a fantastic house with some absolutely amazing fragrances but I think this one is a dud. Get it on sale if you really want it, but I've smelt Zara and Pull&Bear fragrances with the same scent profile and performance for pennies. There is an extrait version, which I don't believe is in the Fragrantica database yet, that might fix the problems I have with the EDT, but who knows.

4/10

Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

This has to be one of my favorite fragrances in terms of scent profile in the whole world, but one of my least favorite in terms of performance, as others have pointed out. It's an absolutely addicting blend of citrus, tea, wood, and musk with a beautifully rendered cardamom note. It's clean, airy, billowy, and out-of-the-shower fresh, but there's also a little bit of dirtiness or earthiness undergirding the whole thing that adds a sexy edge. It's genderless, ageless (in my opinion, though one might argue that it better suits someone 20+), and just phenomenal in every way EXCEPT for performance. It's pretty much an instant skin scent for me, with a longevity of maybe 2-3 hours, practically EDC in terms of strength. Now, I must add that I do live in a subtropical, bordering on tropical, climate with extremely hot and humid weather, and I have perfume eating skin. Even so, I've applied Voyage d'Hermes in an air conditioned environment without going outside and gotten the same outcome. Wearing this on my daily walk to work resulted in total annihilation, with not even a trace of the fragrance remaining after fifteen minutes. I've plowed through my 35ml (very cool) bottle of Voyage within a matter of months. This reflects both my love for the fragrance (and I do truly love the smell) and its utter lack of performance. For that reason, despite the fact that I adore the smell, I will either be purchasing the Parfum once my bottle is finished, or looking elsewhere.

6/10

L'Homme Idéal Cologne by Guerlain

After having exhausted a bottle of this fragrance just today, I cannot but feel a sense of relief. No longer do I have to put in the taxing effort of trying to like this fragrance. Not that it's a BAD fragrance, mind you - it's perfectly serviceable, simple, sweet, and generally pleasant. But I can't help but feel let down, especially considering the fat hype train for this juice. I am a huge Guerlain fan, and a huge fan of the L'Homme Ideal line, but sadly this is second to last in my reckoning, right above the dreadful Sport. I've been trying to convince myself that I enjoy this fragrance ever since I got it in August. I live in Taiwan, so it's damn hot. I thought that this would be perfect for the scorching days of the Taiwanese summer and autumn. But I was sorely mistaken - this fragrance was utterly obliterated what felt like mere moments after stepping out of the door into the humidity-soaked Formosan air. I have never gotten even decent performance out of this fragrance, despite overspraying in an office environment. In terms of scent profile, it is, as I previously mentioned, pleasing, but in no way surprising or unique. Creamy citrus has been done many times before, most notably by Chanel with their Edition Blanche and most masterfully by Xerjoff with Uden. Surprisingly both are leaps and bounds above the Guerlain in terms of performance and overall scent character in my estimation. The almond does add some...flair, I suppose, of some kind, but its voice is not all THAT recognizable in the choir. This is not a fragrance with much (or any) evolution. Nor can one detect different notes in the composition beyond citruses, light almond, and maybe a smidgen of musk. Vetiver is listed, as is neroli, and these are tragically nowhere to be found. The overall scent character, on first spray, reminded me of a Haribo lemon gummy bear. I love Haribo gummy bears (really gummies of any variety), but I was expecting something a lot more. "Fizzy frozen lemonade" this is not.

So it is with great satisfaction that I appraise my empty 50ml (quite nice) bottle of Guerlain L'Homme Ideal Cologne, and bid it a long overdue farewell.

If you're interested in a summer Guerlain, go with Vetiver/Vetiver Extreme, Homme L'Eau Boisee, or even L'Homme Ideal Cool, which I think is a lot better than Cologne, if not earth shattering.

4/10

Allure Homme by Chanel

To add a voice to the choir:

I absolutely fell in love with this scent at first sniff. It is a sublime, fruity, creamy, semi-spicy, woodsy, citrusy, tonka and vanilla fragrance with that trademark Chanel aldyhedic sheen and a marked dustiness that I loved. But the juice very simply does not last. I get at most 1-2 hours at most, with as little as 30 minutes of projection. I do have perfume eating skin, I'll grant that, but at the price that I paid, a hefty $95, it's simply ridiculous. There are Chanel fragrances that I love, like Egoiste, Coromandel, and Antaeus, that I am willing to pay for. If this juice had anything approaching respectable performance I'd be willing to pay that price. But it doesn't, so I gifted my heavily used bottle to my girlfriend, on whose skin it seems to last at least an hour or two longer than on mine.

A beautiful scent neutered by abysmal performance.

6/10

Vétiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne

A bright, luminous vetiver fragrance that balances the grassy, fresh aspects of the root with a dash of earthy bitterness. Plum provides fruitiness à la Bal d'Afrique, and while there is definitely a big similarity between the two, Vetiver Fatal is far less floral and far more unisex. Contributing a bit more of a masculine character to the blend is a very present violet leaf note (to my nose). This fragrance is also far soapier than Bal d'Afrique. Nevertheless, this is still quite unisex and quite lovely - a grassy, soapy, fresh, slightly fruity, and clean fragrance that is sure not to offend even the most sensitive noses. Performance is nothing to write home (or on Fragrantica) about, but is definitely a little bit better than Atelier's citrus centric fragrances (and better than Bal d'Afrique), with around 6 hours of longevity and mild projection and sillage in an air conditioned office environment or a warm, not blazing hot day. I wore this on a humid early September day here in Taiwan and the fragrance was little more than a distant memory on my skin by the time I had arrived at work a mere 15 minutes later. Worn appropriately, though, you can squeeze a little bit more out of it. Overall, I enjoy Vetiver Fatal, but I don't think that I'll be buying a fb after my decant runs out, unless I can find a good deal on the discounters. My favorite fresh vetivers remain Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver, Ormond Jayne Zizan, and Lalique Encre Noire Sport.

7/10

Signature pour Homme by Zaharoff

I owned this fragrance previously and eventually swapped it. It is most assuredly a rich, complex perfume with high quality ingredients. The oud, resins, patchouli, lavender, vetiver, and spices (cardamom and black pepper) are the most prominent notes to my nose. The Fragrantica pyramid is actually missing a few notes - notably pear, iris, amber, and olibanum. The combination of the pear, iris, oud, sandalwood, and resins create an extremely smooth and creamy texture which I absolutely loved, though the pear and florals weren't really all that detectable. The oud in this fragrance is fantastic - a woody variety without any barnyard stink. There's something very soapy here - maybe the cardamom - that makes this fresh, versatile, and suitable for all seasons, despite the otherwise "heavy" notes. The combination of it all together, somewhat surprisingly, makes it smell like an extremely high quality blue fragrance crossed with a barbershop/gentlemanly classic (lavender + patchouli) with a little bit of oriental inflection. It really is a beautiful fragrance - a mix of old and new, West and East.

So why did I swap it? Two reasons. The first is this - on my skin, it simply didn't perform very well. After trying it in both cold and warm weather, I got maybe 4-5 before it entered skin scent territory. Overall longevity was around 6 hours, with poor projection and sillage. This could simply be a consequence of my own chemistry - my skin eats fragrance - but Zaharoff himself remarked to me in a Youtube comment that the high concentration of naturals in the blend could reduce performance. You'll have to try it for yourself to see what you get it out it. The second reason was that this was simply a bit mature for my tastes. I think it could easily be a beautiful "signature" (heh) scent for men 30+, but for me (24), I felt like it simply wasn't the best fit. Make no mistake, there is definitely a throwback retro vibe here. If that's your thing, then this will absolutely be the fragrance for you. It's not really my thing, so I had to swap this for something that I felt was a little bit more "me".

Overall, though, this is a beautiful, well composed fragrance that is a strong showing for this brand. It's absolutely worth a try if you like classic, gentlemanly fragrances that have a little bit of a modern flair. It wasn't for me, but it could be for you!

1899 Ernest Hemingway by Histoires de Parfums

A gorgeous but discrete fragrance. Warm, nose tinglingly spicy, smooth, a bit creamy, a twinge of sweetness, but mostly dry. Comparisons to Spicebomb are apt, though as other reviewers have noted, this is far, far beyond it in terms of composition and quality. Perfectly refined and well balanced. I just wish it had a little bit more oomph, a little bit more power behind it. Its lasting power leaves something to be desired, and its projection and sillage are similarly taciturn. I think I'll try this out when it gets a bit colder out, though only at home or at the office.

7/10

Bottega Veneta pour Homme Extrême by Bottega Veneta

Very lovely juniper, pine, and leather with a great pimento note. The leather is very soft and supple, not especially prominent, but still very much noticeable. It is serious, masculine, and quite sexy, with a smidge of freshness that makes me think that it would work well in warmer weather as well as during the autumn and winter. However, like other Bottega Veneta fragrances I've tried, the performance was poor for me - around 3 hours longevity, and limited projection and sillage. Ultimately, I sold it; but still I get cravings for it. I've since sampled Russian Leather by the house of Memo Paris, and as other reviewers have noted, can affirm that they are quite similar, though Russian Leather is superior in terms of scent profile and performance. I'll be picking up a bottle eventually. Still, Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Extreme is a classy, sexy, very well composed fragrance hearkening back to the old favorites that could shake up your winter rotation of sweet and spicy orientals. I just wish it lasted longer on my skin.

7/10

Casamorati Dolce Amalfi by Xerjoff

Utterly gorgeous, luminous, juicy, spicy, resinous fragrance that is pure magic on my skin. It does have bubblegummy (yes, at the surface level it does smell like Juicy Fruit, albeit the most luxurious Juicy Fruit you could possibly imagine) ice creamy shades, but only a smidge - this is a complex fragrance with facets that reveal themselves only after repeated wearings. My first few wearings were dominated by the fruity quince, apple, vanilla, and spices (still a potent and delicious combination), but now the incense and tolu balsam stick out to my nose, making this an even more beautiful and nuanced composition. One thing has remained prevalant throughout my testing of Dolce Amalfi, however, and that is a lovely vanilla - silky, buttery smooth - that leaves an irrestibile aroma in its wake. I am plowing headlong through my 5ml decant and will without doubt be coughing up the cowries for at least a 30ml bottle, only around $100. As far as I know, of the Casamorati line only Dolce Amalfi and Mefisto are available in 30ml, and as much I love fragrances like 1888, Fiero, Regio, and Italica, my wallet cringes at their price tags. But for ~$100 at 30ml, I can still own this beautiful fragrance from the oh-so-wonderful but oh-so-expensive house of Xerjoff. If you're looking for a truly unique, impeccably blended, fruity, complex, and totally unisex warm weather fragrance, look no further than Dolce Amalfi.

Oltremare by Bois 1920

Opens with a nuclear blast of citrus and rhubarb - almost photorealistic, crispy, crunchy rhubarb. This is an incredibly tangy, zesty fragrance citrus fragrance with a warm base of amber, sandalwood, and patchouli. A bit of ozone from the violet, a bit of floral, and an herbal quality from the tea and mate. It does smell similar to other fragrances I've smelt before, but I can't quite place which. I think that it might be a female fragrance that it reminds me of, as this definitely leans more feminine to my nose, though it's still quite unisex. This is definitely evocative of dark, deep blue waters in the Mediterannean, and it's fantastically refreshing. Will be wearing this a lot in the hot weather.

Blu Mediterraneo : Cedro di Taormina by Acqua di Parma

Sunlight in a bottle. I have a fantasy about being a well-groomed Italian gentleman in a crisp beige linen suit and jute espadrilles, luncheoning on freshly caught grilled octopus and caprese salad with a sparkling glass of white wine and beautiful madonna at my side on the patio of a seaside restaurant somewhere along the Amalfi Coast. This (or Essenza, Chinotto di Liguria, or Ginepro di Sardinia) would be my fragrance - sparkling, fresh, zesty, charismatic, sexy, and mama mia oh so Italian. BIG love.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens

Crystallized, candied ginger over a bed of warm spices. Slightly sour and astringent in the top, with the characteristic Lutens "sheen" and dried fruits. I don't get much of the tea to be honest, but as the fragrance dries down, I do get the cacao, honey, and amber. I was recommended this because of my love for L'Artisan's Tea For Two, but I think that I still perfer Tea For Two. Still, this is a pleasant fragrance, and one that I wouldn't mind owning, though not in my top 5 Lutens fragrances. Try wearing this on a warm day as opposed to a cold one - the crystallized ginger and bergamot become more prominent, and this sparkles quite nicely.

Portraits : The Uncompromising Sohan by Penhaligon's

Stunning oud and saffron with vetiver, sandalwood, and spices. Rose is listed in the notes, but I certainly can't smell it very much. This is rugged, muscular, sophisticated and manly af. I like the petroleum comparison that another reviewer noted. It has this leatheriness to it with that cumin flow and oud that is just divine. Of all the Potraits Collection, this and Monsieur Beauregard are my favorites. This would be glorious on a cold night.

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Pure, crystalline, creamy, warm lusciousness. Smells like the most luxurious vanilla pudding you could ever make, with a dusting of spice. Not much to say about this fragrance since it is fairly linear and simple, but it is absolutely lovely, charming, easy to wear, longlasting, and garners compliments galore. The perfect fragrance to wear on a cool autumn evening in Paris.

Aqua Celestia Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Gorgeous. Vibrant, green minty citrus freshness that's pure, crystalline, transluscent, like clear spring water between sunlight and shade. The characteristic MFK sheen is present here to great effect, making this eminently refreshing. This is one to wear on the hottest days - its glasslike sharpness could make mincemeat of heat and humidity. By far the my favorite of the Aqua Forte line, and the most masculine.