Last week Thomas Dunckley, AKA The Candy Perfume Boy presented a Summer Special at The New Cavendish Club in London, a joint event with Basenotes and Perfume Lovers London. Here’s a list of his summer choices. We began the evening by hearing about the first ‘proper’ fragrance that he bought, which inspired him to go on to collect more…The CatalystAlexander McQueen’s KingdomThomas brought along both the parfum and the EDP. The bottles are unusual, futuristic and beautiful. Now sadly discontinued, they used to be available to buy quite reasonably, but have gone up greatly since the designer’s death.Citrus & ColognesFils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes by Etat Libre D’Orange (escentual.com)This has a beautiful rice note that Thomas admired, a gourmand that that is not sweet. The fragrance used to be called Filipino House Boy. Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler escentual.comThomas confessed that he was always in the mood for this versatile cologne.Eau des Merveilles by HermesThis was also a strong recommendation, very refreshing, yet also a perfume of contrasts and layers made to resemble natural ambergris, he said it was bright and sunny, but also deep and resinous. Agua de Colonia Concentrada by Alvarez Gomez (Roullier White)Eva Farmacia by Santa Ma. Novella Ô de Lancome (The Garden Pharmacy)Eau de Rochas by RochasEau d’Hadrien Annick Goutal escentual.comL’eau Fraiche Verveine Agrumes L’Occitane L’Occitane Eau de Sisley 3 by Sisley SelfridgesBasil Lime & Mandarin Jo Malone Jo MaloneWafting on the breeze…Voyage d’Hermes Hermes (Selfridges)A light, classic, fresh fragrance from Jean-Claude Elena which combines spices and citrus. Infusion d’Iris Prada (escentual.com)Highly Recommended for summer, subtle iris, refreshing and discreet.Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder (The Garden Pharmacy)Flower PowerSéville à l’aube L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Artisan ParfumeurThis new pefume by Bertrand Duchaufour was released to coincide with the publication of the book The Perfume Lover by Denyse Beulieu who write the Grain de Musc blog.Black Orchid Voile de Fleur Tom Ford (discontinued) Guerlain Lys Soleia escentual.comAmaranthine Penhaligon’s Penhaligon’sThe Boy’s of SummerGeranium Pour Monsieur Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle Liberty’sThis was one that was very different on skin than on paper, as demonstrated by Nick Gilbert who was our human tester for this perfume. (Nick is the manager at Les Senteurs Seymour St Branch, and also tweets @fragrantreviews) The mint is less dominant and some of the subtle spicy qualities come out after half an hour. Homme L’Eau Boisée EDT Guerlain escentual.comFleur du Male Jean Paul Gaultier escentual.comLovely LavendersAntiheroes by Etat Libre D’Orange (escentual.com)Thomas said he found this to be one of the most well-rounded lavenders around. Lavandula by PenhaligonsAgua Lavanda by PuigJersey by Chanel (Selfridges)Czech & Speake Oxford & Cambridge (Czech & Speake)Lavender Caldey Island (Roullier White)Pour Un Homme Caron (Les Senteurs)Tumultuous Tuberoses Thomas’ love affair with tuberose (and florals generally!) is well known. He recently wrote an excellent guide to them on his blog. He took the group through 4 tuberoses that were all quite different in feel so that people could get to know the different facets of this flower. Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle (Liberty’s)This was a ‘fleshy’ tuberose of the sort that wasn’t about the flower being ‘carnal’ but about making oneself feel ‘carnal’. We learned that the perfume has one of the highest concentrations of tuberose in a perfume. Thomas calls this the ‘euphoric’ tuberose. Tuberuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens (escentual.com)A very camphorous, menthol hard-core tuberose, which Thomas called ‘freaky’. We learned that the real beauty of the flower is uncovered after about half an hour – almost like beauty and the beast, the difficult, startling bit on top leads to utter beauty underneath. Tubereuse by Mona di Orio (Les Senteurs)Thomas said this was the one that reminded him most of hot mediterranean nights, perhaps somewhere in the south of France. One of his favourites. This was what he called a ‘radiant’ tuberose.Nuit de Tubéreuse by L’Artisan Parfumeur (L’Artisan Parfumeur)The most sheer of the four with a mango top, Thomas felt that perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour had surpassed himself with this ephemeral tuberose, though it is a perfume which leads you on an incredible journey, which is why he calls it ‘the labyrinthine’ tuberose. This proved the most popular tuberose on the night in a vote. Summer WeddingPuredistance I by Puredistance (Harrods)For Brides, Thomas thought Puredistance 1 an ideal choice – a beautiful, complex and subtle perfume. But he also thought it was something everyone should experience because of its magical qualities. He said “When describing Puredistance I, I find the best words to be: ethereal, magnetic and atmospheric. The citrus and florals are draped in a blinding white musk. It allows Puredistance I to permeate the soul. It wears like an attitude, a sense of glamour, style and beauty.Honour Woman by Amouage (Amouage)As it happens Thomas was about to attend a wedding the following weekend. His choice to wear: his beloved Honour Woman, which he calls ‘the perfect white floral.’Beautiful by Estée Lauder (The Garden Pharmacy)This stalwart of brides has a soft spot in Thomas’ heart, not least because his mum used to wear it. At the BeachWomanity by Thierry Mugler (escentual.com)Thomas confesses he is a Mugler devotee. Many people hadn’t tried Womanity before though they’d heard about it. It’s a unique fragrance with a flour/ bread note to it. Santal Blush by Tom Ford (Selfridges)This was a favourite summer perfume of Lila’s which we finished off with. It’s quite sheer, but coconutty and rich at the same time. It proved quite a hit with many people asking for samples. Virgin Island Water by Creed (Les Senteurs)Thomas’ favourite Creed of all. New Kids on The Block These are some recent releases that were available for testing.
- Penhaligon’s Peoneve (Penhaligon’s)
- Ruth Mastenbroek Amorosa (Les Senteurs)
- Juliet Has A Gun Mad Madame (Les Senteurs)
- Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule (Liberty’s)
- Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay (Jo Malone)
- Union Quince, Mint & Moss (Selfridges)
- Union Gothic Bluebell
- Union Holy Thistle
- Union Celtic Fire
- Mona di Orio Rose Etoile de Hollande (Les Senteurs)
- Chloe L’Eau de Chloe (escentual.com)
- Comme des Garcons Amazing Green (CDG)
- Czech & Speake Vetiver (Czech & Speake)
A big thank you to all those who provided perfume and sponsor the group.
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