Perfume Reviews by Z_LiDs
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake
it is beautiful, light, citrusy, woody, with an aquatic sensation due to the mix of notes that are vaguely sweet and floral. it's definitely a very recognizable scent. I used it over 20 years ago and I have a couple of bottles of the first formula compared to which, if I have to be honest, I don't find many differences with the more recent versions, on the contrary... perhaps the 94-00 bottles are more citrusy and vaguely love at the beginning, but we are talking about subtleties that do not change the overall performance of the perfume. my advice, therefore, is not to worry about finding old bottles but to get a new one and enjoy it. the perfume tends to be summery (but absolutely suitable even for lower temperatures), extremely versatile and adapts to any context, very easy to wear, practically everyone likes it, it is not invasive but feels just right, leaving a transparent but perceptible trail. on the skin it lasts up to 6 hours and on clothes much longer. for what it costs, it is a product of absolute interest as long as you like the genre.Pour Un Homme Parfum (2024 version) by Caron
I much prefer it to the EdT...apart from the overdose of lavender which I adore, unlike the EdT, when drying down, this Parfum seems less cloying and less sweet to me, certainly due to the resins used which give a more "balsamic/smoky" scent (take these words with the pliers, it's just to give you an idea) and less vanilla; furthermore, I don't even smell the musk-like smell that I smell in the less concentrated version, here the musk is much less cloying...
beautiful and well made. obviously it is not a loud perfume, it has a calm and distinct character.
I think I'll take it...
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Jules by Christian Dior
It's a great perfume but, perhaps due to laziness, although I've been using it for a few years (in the original version, of course), I've never bothered to write my opinion on it. The point is that there isn't much to say, the perfume is all in all "simple", it's bitter green and musky, with very light hints of leather and aromatic herbs, a base not at all sweet but dry and musky. Discreet projection but persistent scent. Don't listen to those who describe it as a performance bomb or as a driven animalic, that's nonsense; evidently the nostalgia for things past together with the dancing memory, alters the memories... The perfume is animalic, but in the sense that it has a musky base which however does not stink at all but is, in fact, a "white" musk. to say. In short, it is an animalic different from the Kouros, Antaeus, Bel Ami and Gentleman genres. It has NOTHING to do with stuff like Captain Molyneux, Trussardi Uomo and company... The new one I have no idea what it might be like but, if you want something similar in genre, I can recommend trying Chypre Siam by Rogue, the genre and the vibes are the same,.. the perfume is different but it is a valid alternative with a sweet base that differs from the dry one of Jules. The problem with this perfume, for those who only discover it today, is that it is quite rare and therefore its price is quite high; is it worth it? I don't know... what is certain is that the quality level is very high, the aromatic yield is typical of the 80s.Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels
very very similar to Jazz by YSL, Drakkar Noir by La Roche and co.--. the genre is identical, the fougere with dihydromyrcenol which gives that shower gel effect. I don't mind it, in fact, I find it better than Jazz but it's not my kind of fougere. That synthetic note makes it feel cheap to me, like those perfumes from the stall... I much prefer Pour Homme I by Ungaro which, although it has a slight note of dihydromyrcenol, continues in the diametrically opposite direction with a unique and unrivaled evolution. the sensation of shower gel. Overall, not bad but it doesn't make me crazy or want to find a few bottles, not for now...Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Do you want to have an idea of how trends in the perfumery field have changed? well, compare the original Opium from 1977 with the male counterpart released in 1992 (if I remember correctly) and, between the two, tell me which one seems more feminine to you... the feminine is definitely more masculine than the masculine, yes! absurd huh? true opium is a perfume that today could easily be sold and worn for men, it is dense, resinous and spicy to die for, balsamic but NOT sweet. The resins used, of unquestionable quality, are not the modern chemical ones with a permeating and omnipresent sweetish scent. The scent always remains very warm and enveloping but at the same time very dry and sharp. Beautiful trail and persistence, never cloying, never sweet, but truly narcotic and opulent. It's a resinous spicy woody that's in a league of its own compared to modern filth. The perfume I would like my partner to have.Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent
Drakkar Noir and Ungaro pour l'Homme I style green fougere, so we're talking Dihydromyrcenol and herbaceous/floral notes. All in all it gives a sensation of shower gel, resulting fresh and invigorating. You can smell the lavender, I can't smell the nutmeg but I can smell the coriander and a light leathery accord. Compared to Drakkar and Ungaro, however, this does not have the sweetish component of the base and therefore remains much drier and "sour", more suitable for summer. In certain nuances it also brings me back to Egoiste Platinum, the genre is big, let's say.It's a nice perfume, very masculine, it's certainly liked by those around it, it lasts on good skin and has a discreet projection but, if I have to be honest, it didn't make me cry out for a miracle; I'll consider whether to keep the bottles I took.
Oud Satin Mood Extrait de Parfum by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Before we get lost in chatter about aromatic yield, performance, cocks and decks... let's start with one thing: FOR ME it's a feminine perfume, there's no escape, and in fact to be honest it's the entire MFK line that wavers between feminine and the metrosexual unisex without having a real masculine scent inside. Having made the necessary assumptions, we can say that it is a VERY beautiful perfume, indeed. Light years away from the more common pink-ouds, in OSME you can barely smell the oud on the base (we are talking about negligible quantities in my opinion), but if you want to look for it. In essence, the aromatic yield is centered on a very beautiful vanilla rose with a hint of violet that gives it that something extra, making your mouth water. It really has a silky smell, that's what it reminds you of because it's smooth and soft on the nose, never aggressive or edgy. The vanilla is that of FK, delicious and gourmand but absolutely not cloying (and to say so myself...). Compared to the EdP version I prefer this one because it is less sweet and more floral. I rarely use it because it doesn't feel good on me, even though I like it a lot. Is it worth what it costs? no, definitely not! but where there is taste there is no loss and so amen...!Chypre-Siam by Rogue Perfumery
I've been using it for a few years and I've read all sorts of things about this perfume... the thing I can't digest is what I read from people who, upon closer inspection, have in their collection modern rubbish created by the pizza chef on duty (with all due respect to the pizza chef eh... but let him continue making pizzas, to each his own). It is an extremely well made, balanced, green chypre, with a beautiful floral component in the heart and a very soft and fat base; this alone could be enough. A fortiori, it should be highlighted that it is also composed of materials of absolute quality, real oak moss and real absolutes, as it should be. It has a smell that faithfully reflects the vintages of the 60s and 80s and those like me, as vintage enthusiasts, put their noses up to it... can only appreciate it. In short, it is a creation that today is as anachronistic as it is wonderful and well received (by me, at least). It remains a very green, aromatic and substantial chyore, slightly more masculine perhaps. Excellent performance, exceptional persistence... suitable for non-sweltering days. Difficult to wear? absolutely not, on the contrary... it's an excellent 3 seasons. Confusing? but what! it has a masterful evolution from head to heart, let's not talk nonsense come on... Certain perfumes must be understood and require a certain olfactory culture, they require passion for certain declinations of classic and vintage perfumery, they may not be for everyone, so if you don't whether they like it or not, then simply leave it alone, but avoid shooting clams.Green Irish Tweed by Creed
GIT is green, herbaceous, balsamic, ozonated, with a vague synthetic scent. It looks a lot like Davidoff's CW but differs from it in the distinctly more chemical scent of its Teuton cousin, furthermore GIT remains greener and more aromatic where CW veers more towards the bubble bath effect. It is undoubtedly a perfume that has little natural but it must be admitted that it does not give the sensation of nauseating squirt, on the contrary... it remains very natural in its scents and extremely pleasant. Its ideal period is spring and early autumn but I must say that even in these sultry days it behaves very well and gives breaths of green, dry and masculine freshness. The performances, compared to the other Creeds, are atomic .. in the sense that it easily lasts 7 hours and feels good for the first 2; In short, all in all adequate performance. Does it cost much? definitely yes.... is it worth it? you must know ... I also had some bottles of CW very first version and in any case the comparison didn't hold up, the GIT is much more beautiful in my opinion, less synthetic in the rendering and in general at least 3 steps above the Davidoff. Masculine without ifs and buts. Handsome.Uncut Gem by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
The scent is not bad but it leaves me perplexed.... The opening is very beautiful, citrus, spicy and sparkling and you can immediately feel the base that will be the protagonist of all the evolutions. Just the base makes me think.... essentially it's a musky plasticy leather accord, very very similar to the one heard in the Gualtieri such as Bergamask, Cuoium, Nudiflorum etc... in short, it sounds to me like I've heard before, a sort of Blu de Chanelle with a Gualtieri base, it's hard for me to imagine it as Rouchelle's personal perfume... It didn't strike me, not at all.... It's not bad but today I wouldn't buy it because I find there are better in the genre , at least for me. Discreet projection, good durability thanks to the leather baseCaptain Molyneux by Molyneux
I'm sorry, but I'm going against the tide this time around. The much acclaimed captain, for me, is a nice perfume but nothing unforgettable. I'm now on the third bottle of the vintage version, the original formulation and no, it didn't excite me or, better, it didn't fully convince me, the fault of the really modest performance. Beautiful, elegant, an aromatic masculine scent, sharp opening, creamy and round heart and base, balsamic and aromatic but.... the duration and strength are far below average. Unfortunately it is a perfume that lasts very little and feels even less. As soon as it is sprayed, it projects for the first 30min then it settles very close to the skin and remains there for the (few) following 4 hours or so. Let me be clear, I am not discussing the quality, the ingredients have an exceptional aroma and it is something that cannot be contradicted but, quoting a user from the American forum, the captain is like "a friend who just met you shakes your hand and leaves it goes". Too bad, maybe that's why it has never had a great success ... who knows? final judgement? nice perfume but as I see it it is absolutely not worth the money they ask for the vintage. On the other hand, the modern is a completely different perfume from the original, very chemical and banal, to be avoided absolutely.Ungaro pour L'Homme I by Ungaro
The first Ungaro for men is a fougere as beautiful as, in some ways, sui generis. All in all, the pyramid is canonical for the category, in the sense that the fundamental notes are there but are then flanked by further elements that give it a particular connotation. What am I referring to? to the dark and enveloping character that makes this perfume very special. In fact, although it is a fougere it is not absolutely fresh or suitable for the morning, but it has a character that I would dare to define as "warm" in a broad sense, which is instead suitable for the evening, thanks to the presence of elements such as sandalwood, tonka, amber and honey making it a perfume that seems seductive and bewitching to me. I would like to clarify, however, that it is not a cloying or particularly sweet perfume, on the contrary... let's say that all these elements combine to give it an enveloping and soft nuance (to make a comparison, tom ford beau de jour is to my nose much more sweet and vanilla) . . In any case, as a good fougere, it always remains aromatic thanks to the male flowers par excellence such as lavender and geranium which in turn are enhanced by the green and aromatic notes. The performances are appropriate to the genre, since it is a classic men's perfume it is not shouty or loud but gentle even if clearly present, never intrusive or imposing, it allows itself to be perceived by those who approach it appropriately. The duration is good, I would say between 5 and 7 hours on skin. As for the author of this beautiful perfume, it is appropriate to mention the name of Jacque Polge, in fact it seems that at the time the Ungaro maison did not have a "perfume" department or in any case the possibility of creating a new fragrance so it decided to "outsource" the you work at Chanel (which is synonymous with Polge, in fact); and it seems that it was the legendary (ehh yes, legendary...) Jacque Polge who created the 3 Ungaro men's shoes (perhaps together with Demachy, but there is no certainty about this). Definitely? beautiful and particular, for me and it seems for almost all lovers of the genre the best of the trilogy and also the most sought after, absolutely a must have if you are a lover of the genre even if, unfortunately, today you have to spend a rather high sum to get a bottle of it well maintained.Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne
Elegant, masculine, shaving foam, soapy, musky green and lavender (short) scent. It has a musky base and in the same genre, due to the shaving foam hints it has, it can be compared to Rogue's Mousse Ilumine and, in part, to Polo Green (the latter much more robust and leathery). In general it maintains an aromatic, clean and fresh sensation, almost as if it has just been bleached. It has a good persistence, let's say it covers 6 hours rather easily and it's not a trail or crazy projection perfume, it always remains rather discreet but very present. The vintage version, needless to say, is a completely different thing from the modern one. For lovers of classic and timeless men's, in my opinion, it is an absolute must.Ted Lapidus pour Homme by Ted Lapidus
Precursor of the modern "niche" (the inverted comma is intentional...), it is a perfume in which castoreum, olibanum and aldehydes play at the forefront. The leather accord is dry and slightly smoky, not greasy and soft Kouros-like. Olibanum with that resinous and incensed scent which is dampened by aldehydes and green notes; I am simply speaking of green notes because, in the marasma of dark and earthy notes, the various notes in the pyramid do not distinguish much... As I said, it is a forerunner of the perfumes you find today in those pretentious shops that sell even more pretentious bottles shiny and full of chemical substances that imitate the natural ones that have now fallen into disuse due to multiple factors. In any case, here the castoreum is the real one, the olibanum as well .... and this difference is very noticeable. It has excellent grip, a trail that I would define as "right" and a discreet projection (ehh yes, it's not a monster of projection, it's not screamed or rude, none of that, on the contrary...). Beautiful men's, remained on the market for less than 10 years, from '78 to '86 if I'm not mistaken, unfortunately today very very difficult to find. I'll make do with my bottles.Équipage by Hermès
How important is it and how much can a man be influenced by his father's olfactory imprinting? Very, very much. Equipage, used by my father, was and still is his most representative perfume, closely followed by Monsieur by Givenchy, Gentleman, etc. Today I use it too (for quite some time now). Hermes' first male and let me tell you he couldn't start better. The main smell that emanates, for me, is that of carnation and nutmeg with a woody but never dirty base. Equipage (the original at least), for me it's also a rather unusual perfume for its time... we are in fact talking about a creation put on the market in 1970, in which much greener, fresher and more aromatic perfumes with citrus traits were very popular. .. much more fougere. Equipage, on the other hand, is rather warm as a perfume, for me it falls into the category of chypres with a spicy and woody character. Held on the skin for around 6 hours without too many problems, it spreads very discreetly and is not at all an intrusive or loud perfume, in full Hermes style... I compared it with Ellena's flanker, Geranium... this The last one didn't hold a candle to the comparison... he looks like his simpleton cousin from the countryside. Where Equipage (original) is deep, enveloping and warm, Geranium is transparent, light, without body and inconsistent. Personally, I consider it a timeless, refined and tasteful masterpiece. I've saved up a small supply that I think will last me forever.Silvestre by Victor
Silvestre by Victor belongs to that "old" lineage of men's perfumes, typical of the 60-80 period. In the scents it recalls Pino Silvestre (the one pre pre pre reformulation), with its herbaceous, pine and balsamic hints. What characterizes Silvestre for me is a decisive balsamic note (it looks like eucalyptus to me even if it isn't in the pyramid) and a much more marked and less ethereal base note than Pino Silvestre. In general it is an aromatic perfume, smelling of pine needles, resin and wood with a very dry finish and (fortunately) without any sweet scent. Despite being a colony, I must recognize its excellent performance, comparable to the modern EoT; it remains on the skin for at least 5 or 6 hours with a very discreet projection and an equally tenuous trail. Definitely masculine, very...not unisex at all. For me it passed with full marks, beautiful to wear after a shower in the summer, with that sensation of green and aromatic freshness. Handsome!Balafre Brun by Lancôme
Balafre Brun is a masculine chypre like no other. It can summarily be compared, at least in terms of similarity and olfactory genre, to other classics such as Monsieur by Givenchy and Pour Monsieur by Chanel but compared to these it is denser, more robust, deeper and much more structured. In fact Balafre Brun is characterized by an earthy and bitter, woody and sometimes leathery tone that the other two chypres do not have. In any case, whether you like it or not, it's a perfume that expresses a quality of ingredients that is certainly no longer common today. Even the citrus notes at the opening have an extremely natural and sparkling scent (I have bottles from almost 50 years ago...!), the oakmoss, cedar, tobacco and vetiver with skin arrive immediately afterwards and remain strong and stable for the entire duration on the skin. An aromatic, woody and dry scent tending towards bitter will remain. It smells like a man, adult, mature and self-confident. It has a discreet projection, it can be felt well at a distance of one meter for the first 2 hours or so and it lasts for at least 6 hours on the skin. If you are thinking that having this perfume could perhaps be redundant in a collection where pieces such as Givenchy, Chanel, YSL or Dior are already present, you are mistaken because this Lancome has a very very different structure and base which gives it an aromatic very different and peculiar compared to the other category mates. A great perfume, today unfortunately (or fortunately, given the IFRA restrictions) discontinued and very very difficult to find but, if you like classic perfumes like the ones our dads and grandparents used and you should happen upon a bottle for sale ... I strongly advise you to take it.Equipage Géranium by Hermès
I am a lover of Equipage in the original version, I also have several spare bottles since for me it is a very particular perfume, to which I am particularly attached, a cornerstone of my wardrobe. I had expectations of a certain level for this flanker...nevertheless it took me time to try it because I've never felt like buying it in the dark, so I waited for a friend to offer me a small sample... I must say, unfortunately, that this version of my beloved Equipage does not fully convince me. Let's start by saying that the nutmeg so characteristic of its predecessor is still present but greatly attenuated. The geranium feels but not as I expected. In general it seems to me a duller and less characterized version of the firstborn of the Hermes house, a sort of simpleton cousin from the countryside visiting the more "sophisticated" relative of the city. This Geranium lacks something, perhaps depth and substance, of that masculinity so present in Equipage but equally well tamed by the crew" of the olfactory notes that compose it. Modest projection and duration, far inferior to the original of yesteryear and I say it with full knowledge. Am I saying that it's ugly? absolutely not.... it remains a beautiful perfume but, perhaps, not fully appreciated by those who, like me, are used to using the vintage version.Monsieur de Givenchy by Givenchy
Monsieur by Givenchy is one of my staples in the "pantry". As with its cousin Gentleman, or Equipage by Hermes and others, Monsieur is also part of that group of perfumes that my father used (and still use when I pass him some decants) when I was a kid. So also for Monsieur I can say that I had an olfactory imprinting that made it a reference perfume in the aromatic chypre theme. I was lucky enough to find several bottles, perfectly kept, dating back to the early 80s and late 70s .. needless to say, I stocked up. Version 1980-83 It is a bright, clear, dry, extremely aromatic perfume. It opens with very tart and not at all synthetic lemon, supported by the strong note of verbena beautifully rendered and supported, in turn, by the notes of carnation and lavender. The base is solid, composed of oakmoss, perhaps civet and sandalwood to tie everything together and give roundness. In fact, it is the base that makes them so beautiful for me, because a delicate scent of greenery, wood and musk will remain on the skin, very dry and aromatic, magnificent and which in no case will get boring. Many compare it to Chanel's Pour Monsieur and I can understand why, the theme is that but the Chanel remains more transparent and airy with a very natural and magnificent lemon zest at the opening (I'm talking about the vintage of the 80s), the Givenchy instead is much denser and deeper, more musky and dry, more characterizing and less citrusy in the opening; I prefer Monsieur. Overall it is a truly classy perfume, discreet and never loud, perfect if combined with clothing that perhaps includes a shirt, for an adult man (30-35), perhaps engaged in study or office work... In short, a great classic and timeless perfume. The performances, considering the genre and the composition, are more than acceptable, we are around 5 abundant hours on the skin and a discreet projection with a minimal trail. I consider it a perfume that can be used all year round, but I think it makes it better in the warmer periods while not being a real citrus. In general, it is then a perfume that bystanders will hardly fail to like.Bel Ami by Hermès
I found a mini vintage, presumably from the 80s or so... Leather perfume, the successor of Equipage (the first Hermes for men), opens with citrus, cardamom and sage but the base made up of leather and a combination of patchouli and resins (styrax, I don't know...). Once the initial phase has passed, the citrus fruits have vanished, the spice of the cardamom tends to persist and to be accompanied by a woody and floral smell which can perhaps be traced back, according to the pyramid, to the heart of cedar-carnation-jasmine-basil. It is useless, in my opinion, to try to break down the perfume into individual notes, it doesn't make much sense. The result is still a nice scent, definitely masculine but not aggressive or cheeky, nor flashy or metrosexual. Bel Amie is an elegant and very elegant perfume, well balanced because you don't hear a single jarring note in the olfactory symphony, no note dominates the others but they all remain more or less perceptible during the course of its evolution. However, his being so polite makes me think that I would like to hear it on a woman, perhaps precisely because I don't feel it is extreme at all... In any case, as already mentioned, at least today it doesn't make me crazy or want to own one or more bottles, it's nice but it didn't strike me, not like Equipage did some time ago and with which it was love at first sniff (certainly thanks to the fact that it was my father's perfume when I was a child)...EDIT October 2023
I purchased a couple of vintage bottles, the shaker-shaped ones so to speak, both from 90-91... what can I say...? when drying it reminds me of Antaeus, to my nose it has that musky-earthy-animal tone of the Chanel perfume which is obviously due to the castoreum. However, it maintains its identity... I'm liking it more the more I wear it, I have to admit... it wasn't love at first smell but, perhaps, slow falling in love? We will see...