Ideas on how to prolong the initial scent of bulgarian rose oil?

I live and die for the scent of Bulgarian rose (Rosa damascena) essential oil fresh out of the vial, in its first 5 or so minutes on the skin.

The aroma is just too gorgeous. I don’t know what chemical constituents exactly to attribute to this initial smell, before it settles. It’s like a softly spicy delicate bright floral aroma. Also a bit of cold and juiciness.

However, it does leave this initial beautiful stage, like most materials do of course. It transitions to that papery, slightly oily typical rose smell. Not that unlike Perfumers Workshop Tea Rose. No longer the distinctive rose essential oil scent.

If you know where I am coming from, do you have any ideas or insight on how to help prolong the illusion of rose essential oil’s first stage?

I can also say I have Rose Petals Natural by Robertet, which is the most alike to the smell I am referring to (compared to other bases I have tried: Wardia, Rose de Mai Signature, Rose Givco, Dorinia). This also does transition to the typical papery dry rose smell, sadly. At least on skin. On the strip it maintains itself quite well.

I know what you mean, a good Bulgarian otto is really something else. Rose crystals are one of the best fixatives for rose that I've come across. Make a dilution in PEA, it's much easier to dissolve than trying to use ethanol or DPG.

For Bulgarian rose in particular, phenyl acetic acid and phenyl ethyl phenyl acetate (PEPA) are indispensable for capturing the honeyed character of the natural. If you want to extend the juiciness, you'll want to get into the damascones.

IthinkIcancancan said:

The aroma is just too gorgeous. I don’t know what chemical constituents exactly to attribute to this initial smell, before it settles. It’s like a softly spicy delicate bright floral aroma. Also a bit of cold and juiciness

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I don't have any answers - it's just nice to see somebody waxing poetic about that smell. Really is nothing like that first sparkling opening. Those peppery notes bring sweetbrier / eglantine to mind for me

This is just a guess, but I've noticed in several GCMS data of Bulgarian rose oils, that there's often (not always!) a trace amount of benzaldehyde (0.02% - 0.04%). Maybe this could be (partially) responsible for the desired smell?

cdieguez said:

I know what you mean, a good Bulgarian otto is really something else. Rose crystals are one of the best fixatives for rose that I've come across. Make a dilution in PEA, it's much easier to dissolve than trying to use ethanol or DPG.

For Bulgarian rose in particular, phenyl acetic acid and phenyl ethyl phenyl acetate (PEPA) are indispensable for capturing the honeyed character of the natural. If you want to extend the juiciness, you'll want to get into the damascones.

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Thank you so much for these amazing tips! I kind of had disregarded rose crystals because I had read they give a powdery rose effect but I will definitely check into it more now.

Mr.P said:

I don't have any answers - it's just nice to see somebody waxing poetic about that smell. Really is nothing like that first sparkling opening. Those peppery notes bring sweetbrier / eglantine to mind for me

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I’m glad you appreciate it as much as I do! Truly one of the best smells. Nothing like it. I’ve never smelled sweetbrier before but I looked it up appears to be wild rose? I’ll have to look more into it.

Hedione HC said:

This is just a guess, but I've noticed in several GCMS data of Bulgarian rose oils, that there's often (not always!) a trace amount of benzaldehyde (0.02% - 0.04%). Maybe this could be (partially) responsible for the desired smell?

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Wow! Very interesting. I would’ve never have guessed. Next time I sit down I will certainly add some trace benzaldehyde to the mix.

Look at a gcms for which volatiles evaporate first.

The very fresh ones are often underestimated, like eucalyptol when they evaporate in concert with Linalool, Limonene and so forth. In case of rose, maybe citronellal and Menthenol too. It’s never just one volatile but the first bunch in addition. But a highly volatile one as soon as it is gone can change the perception