Formula Critique ideas?

joeyl

Member
Jun 26, 2024
11
2
Hey guys!

Made a formula combining an aquatic base and a musk base, and I'm looking for any feedback or suggestions to make this smell better, as I am a beginner. I'm open to all ideas and I'd love to learn from all of you. Here's the formula, everything's diluted to 10% in alcohol (even the galaxolide which was already diluted), measured in grams and totals to around 6 grams:

Ethylene Brassylate1.47
Galaxolide (50% in IPM)1.245
Hedione1.2
Iso E Super0.6
Habanolide0.489
Helional0.3
Dihydro Myrcenol0.246
Cashmeran0.156
Calone0.150
Ambroxan0.102
Orange Terpenes0.102

So far everyone around me likes it. I'm curious if you guys would say this is too much calone, as it is what leads the scent for me right now. I'm aiming to make this a masculine aquatic scent. Thanks for taking the time! Excited to hear your suggestions.
 

ThePhysioPerfumer

Well-known member
Jun 19, 2023
58
26
Hi!
The amounts of calone and cashmeran are way too high imo. I am pretty sure they are over-dominating the whole composition
Try to reduce the calone to 10-15 times less and cashmeran around 10 times less than the current amount.
Retest with that :)

It looks like 35% of the formula is composed of musk, if you like it thats fine. I would suggest trying a blend where you decrease the musks my 10% and replace that 10% (or less) with bergamot EO.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
6,104
4,254
If you like it, you like it! But the advice above definitely sounds reasonable to test & see. Also, a typical way to increase impact & diffusion of masculine frags w DHM is to add AAG at 1/10 the amount of DHM & MOC at 1/100 the amount of DHM.
 

Jonathan Snap

Well-known member
Feb 12, 2015
579
152
Reduce calone.
You can safely increase ambroxan-so that it is strongly dominant in the formula-it fits very well.
A touch of diffusion-giving rounding musk would go a long way- muscenone and high impact woody amber molecules: could be d-norlimbanol, low dose of course.
The sharpness of the composition would be flattened a bit by a touch ( just a touch!) of cis-3-hexenyl salicylate. You can see how great it changes the properties of the formula to more opaque and soapy but more contemporary, less 2000s.
To prevent possible flattening, add a little indole to emphasize, femininity, elegance and freshness with a middle note.
In top note-Is too weak and ,,raw"- you add bergamot Eo to support DHM note and trace of liffarome/manzanate/verdox+cedar leaf Eo+triplar for complicity and green diffusion in top note and saltiness.
 

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