Jãbir
Al Kimiya (2014)

Time to change the baby's diaper! A lot of poo (just the same as in many Xerjoff fragrances) and talc and wipes in the opening. Then fortunately sticky flowers take the lead to make something wearable, of high quality, in small doses.

Floral ferment! Jabir is a kind of perfumery miso – clears the brain and feeds the jaded nose. It offers a riot of fresh florals with the open, citrusy-sweet overtures of freesia in the lead but also shades of dewy peony and the more persistent presence of lily of the valley, alongside the more traditional sweeter rosy tones, and funks them up with a sourish, curdled, runny cheese like oud. Guess what? The combination is striking, quirky, and perks one up – and reminiscent of the bouquet from a chilled glass of good late harvest Tokaji wine.
Jabir has a strong dose of vague musks – the kind much favoured by the likes of Montale – that create an almost hairspray haze extending the reach and diffusion of the perfume. This can have the unfortunate effect of blearing the whole composition, and that is somewhat the case here – but when the blend has such an effervescence it doesn't bother me. Side effect of Jabir – makes one itch for a party to go to, it has that kind of ‘wa-hey!' energy.
(Yup, that price tag is ridiculous – a case of the hangover preceding the party.)
The later stages are more conventional, with Jabir turning into a woody rose in the Arabian style, which is also fine, but for a good four or five hours it is much, much more.

A floral opening - mainly freesia and a medium-sweet brightish rose - with a sweet and soft peppery undertone - are the main components in the opening phase. Later a restrained violet leads into a drydown that affirms the core floral nature of this composition, with whiffs of muguet pointing in the same white floral direction. A touch of booziness at times is noteworthy.

The base sees the ascendancy of a smooth and soft patchouli, with the pleasant sweetness being a combination of a fairly light musk with a restrained tonka impression. Most interesting, at this stage, is the addition of a rather nice oud, which blends in very harmoniously, and which lacks the overly synthetic-aggressive intrusiveness of many contemporary oud fragrances.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longeivty seven hours on my skin.

This spring/autumn scent is pleasant, albeit not very creative, and it is very well blended - the latter is not unexpected give this is said to be a Xerjoff-spinoff. 3/5.