J'ai Osé
J'ai Osé (1977)

As any fule kno, the class of ‘77 was dominated by Opium.
And, as well as her there was the exuberant tuberose of Oscar – who set the trend for the big hair, big shoulders and big everything of Eighties pongs. Also notable was the first Ungaro – an orange flower that was Jacques Polges’ first use of the fruity woods of Antaeus; they were Big Orientals – all of them.
And then there was J’ai Osé, sitting quietly at the back.
She was a pretty Floral Amber, but was so modest and so shy, you would barely notice her.
Even left to her own devices, ‘I Dared’ is so introverted, after three hours -on clothing- she’s virtually left the building.
This is one of the most self effacing scents I’ve ever worn.
Which is a pity because, with a peachy accent, moss and maybe aldehydes, it takes the Oriental in a tentative Mitsouko direction, which could have been interesting.
But as it stands with this Guy Laroche pressurised bottle, I sprayed and I sprayed, and I sprayed again, and I still can't really smell it.

J'ai Ose ("I Dared") starts with a jarring blast of aldehydes, but before I have time to react, I am intoxicated by it. It's like disco lights and the glint of gold jewelry, body heat at first, but like a dream, it somehow morphs into an outdoor affair, and instead of leisure suits and jersey wrap dresses, people are donned in fleeces and hiking gear, albeit flashy such attire. The dizzying rhythm of music contrasts with the smell of the woods and flora. The wetlands smell of patchouli as there are strides and spins on the boardwalk, there meadows smell of vetiver as party-goers are wary of deer ticks whilst dancing and prancing. Then everyone moves to some form of altar while a voice sings "brothers and sisters!"

The crew then gathers in a circle as a censer swings, and everyone is imbued with frankincense and benzoin, chanting. It all changes form outdoor jamboree to a ceremony. The air, already filled with resinous incense, now has the additional scent of powdery sandalwood mixed with orris root, while violets, jasmine, a panoply of flowers start to fill the perimeter of the altar. Then a stage all of a sudden appears at the foot of the altar, and Billy Preston and Syreeta start singing "With You I'm Born Again." Okay, I guess that makes sense. Anyhow, J'ai Ose made me feel all of this as I daydreamed while wearing it.

I will have to agree with Barbara Herman (who inspired me to seek out this and several other vintages through her Scent & Subversion) that J'ai Ose has quite the story arc, from a time where one was more likely to listen to a record album from beginning to end. It demonstrates a restraint and temporality that may be lost in an age of short attention spans, but if one deliberately slows down and lets this or any perfume take its course, they may be in for quite an experience and notice things they may have otherwise missed.

This is how I imagine the forests of Mirkwood must have smelled. Deep, smokey oakmoss and tangled, green undergrowth with a musky civet cat slinking by. The notes here are blended in such a way that I can barely comprehend what I'm smelling. At first I think 'deep green chypre' and then a moment later, I'm accosted by something that smells leathery and woody and slightly animalic. Something (patchouli? oakmoss?)smells ancient and dusty. It's almost akin to a more sinister or black magic version of vintage 1000 or to a lighter, less bitter Cabochard. I find this utterly intriguing and just slightly off-putting. A dark and exotic scent that I'm probably going to have to find more of.

If you like Onda extrait or 7e Sens, you'll probably love this one, as well.

Meryl Streep ( Francesca Johnson ) in The Bridges of Madison County by Clint Eastwood 1995

Slightly smoky-spicy sweet beginning with peach, coriander, and bergamot. Slightly dirty jasmine. Other middle notes are all well-blended together. The vetiver is bright, pops. Sandalwood is prominent. Dark mossy base with earthy tones. Olibanum? Present! Overall, this is very old school. Not overly sweet at all. This also exposes a touch of amber and musk in the base, hours later. Smooth finish.

Classic Feminine Woody Chypre. Smokier, drier, dustier than some of those before and many afterwards. In this way I would say that it appeals to the Masculine part of my sensibilities as it moves to an incensey, blond tobacco, Patchouli accord. The Florals are certainly there, however are dried and tea-like.
I would need a touch of Labdanum to have it feel Leathery.
In my Wardrobe, I have thoughts about Aliage, Aromatics Elixir, Vintage Genny and the big Honeyed Paloma Picasso, as a family of Sisters varying and vibrant.
J'ai Ose would be the Matriarch in the room, quietly watching with both amusement and wisdom.

Hah! a tasting today has the blast of Cured Ham Leather of PEAU D'ESPAGNE.
Leather Chypre savon here!