Kobako
Bourjois (1936)

Kobako was launched in 1936, and is classified as a Chypre Floral fragrance for women. The nose behind this fragrance is Ernest Beaux, the same perfumer who created Chanel No. 5. Kobako is Japanese for "Scent Box," which often contained incense, powders and oils.

Top notes: Bergamot, Neroli, Vanilla, Jasmine, Rose
Heart notes: Magnolia, Galbanum, Cloves, Cinnamon, Carnation, Tonka Bean, Lily
Base notes: Civet, Benzoin, Frankincense, Amber, Oak Moss, Musk, Leather

My sample is of the vintage and unlike the other review here from the Osmotheque, this contains no impressions of suede, leather or cinnamon that stand out as such. My impression is that of an enormous floral melange, the overpowering combo that in today's terms, is designated as an "old lady's perfume." This is not a chypre.

Therefore, I am baffled. Osmotheque should be definitive, but the reality of what I am inhaling has nothing to do with that description. Bottom line:
an old-fashioned "big" feminine floral. Decent, but not remarkable to my way of thinking.

This is for the Osmotheque reconstruction, smelled on paper.

Chanel Cuir de Russie plus cinnamon. This is a smooth, suede-like leather in the mold of Chanel Cuir de Russie (as opposed to the butch Tabac Blond tradition). The different is that this is not as big in the florals, as the Chanel is, but adds rather a smooth cinnamon. Plush and elegant.

I have not smelled later reissues, but from other people's descriptions, I doubt they are particularly related to the original version.