Le Gemme: Orom
Bulgari (2022)

Bvlgari Orom is part of the famous italian brand's luxury perfumes-collection Le Gemme (Gyam being my favorite fragrance of the collection). The Master perfumer behind this fragrance is the great Jacques Cavallier. This parfum is a well blended mix of dusty-rubbery smokey agarwood, fresh and sweet spices, aromatic patterns and benzoinic vanilla. The first intoxicating and slightly misleading oudish blast is quite incensey and rubbery/leathery on my perception (several of the quality oudh's various facets) in a way I'm immediately invested by several olfactory déjà vu and it seems me to deal with the initial stages of the glorious Annick Menardo's Bvlgari Black (1998) or with the top part of Tom Ford Ombré Leather (2018) or Oud Wood (also several Tom Ford Noir's characteristics jump vaguely on mind for a while). On this stage the aroma is darkly misty, kind of incensey and decadent (with almost absence of sweetness). Over the first 5-10 minutes the note of oudh starts gradually losing its rubbery/dusty/smoky connotation in order to unfold a more delicate, mild and volatile typically oudish resinous vibe (gradually oudh migling itself with benzoin, vanilla and musk). I don't perceive a particularly structured and multifaceted evolution (on the contrary the aroma reaches its permanent status quite quickly in order to perform permanently this way without significant changes).On this phase the aroma is basically spicy vanillic with delicately oudish, spicy and kind of slightly rubbery-nutty facets. Along the way this vanilla goes partially losing its smokey-rubbery decadent connotation and tends to smell fresher, spicier and kind of "fluidy" under my profane nose (cardamom?). On this stage I don't get anymore a real connection with the older and seriously rubbery (and post industrial in vibe) brother Bvlgari Black. I usually don't crave for such a type of oudish vanillic shortly developing fragrances and Bvlgari Orom doesn not make an exception. This is definitely well blended, is elegant, sophisticated and expresses a certain quality of ingredients but does not bring any innovative twist under the sun imho. It is a familiar kind of woody/resinous dark vanilla-type of fragrance a la Mancera Aoud Vanille, L' Artisan Parfumeur Ode à l'Oudh (more floral) or stuffs like that. Finally we'll have a bold dark freshly spicy vanilla which could be (I suppose) a mass-appealing night out bold winter unisex (more masculine under my nose) fragrance quite modern and sensual. Performances are definitely more than satisfactory (average projection, long duration) on my skin. Insanely expensive.