Loukhoum
Ava Luxe

Loukhoum by Ava Luxe differentiates itself from its loukhoum brethren, Rahat Loukoum by Serge Lutens and the Loukhoum series by Keiko Mecheri, by homing in on the curiously flat, oily nature of the nuts found within the sticky treat itself (pistachios and hazelnuts) rather than on the rosy gel casing. In the drydown, the dense nuttiness is indeed a pleasure - toothsome, dense, with an absorbing coffee milk note to offset any sweetness. It is also, thank God, nowhere as powdery or as syrupy as other examples in the genre.

However, the scent is marred by the hugely artificial nut note that hovers over the scent like a jealous boyfriend. This note is identical to that used in many gourmand indie perfume oils that mimic the scent of bread, pastries, buttered toast, or indeed nuts. I have no idea what this aromachemical might be, only that it is near-ubiquitous in the indie gourmand genre.

Once the nose spots and identifies this ‘butter-toast-nut’ gourmand note in one perfume, it becomes impossible to miss in others. Unfortunately, I have smelled it so often that it smells of nothing but fakery to my nose, like that buttered popcorn aromachemical they pump through the air ducts of the cinema. However, if you are not as exposed to this particular synthetic on a regular basis, it is entirely possible that you will just think that Loukhoum smells delicious. In which case, well, lucky you.

I have tried several Rahat Loukhoum based fragrances and find the Ava Luxe the most wearable of those commonly available in the US without coming across as a dessert cart. Almond is balanced nicely with pistachio. Honey, which can be so cloying, is brightened with rosewater. There is a sharp burnt sugar that may be confused with hazelnut which brings out musk on the drydown.

In my opinion, Loukhoum is Ava Luxe's masterpiece. As I have said before, I am not afraid to enjoy a gourmand or sweet fragrance - so long as it is just right.Loukhoum is soft and elegant and doesn't scream "food". The pistachio note is delightful, and the creamy/musk/rose base wears naturally. Loukhoum makes a presence and has good sillage while still remaining light. It vaguely shares something in common with Noa,which I also enjoy, probably due to the blend of a subtle floral with gourmand and green notes. I would say this is versatile enough to wear for day or night.

I'd say this smells like hazelnuts and roses. It's very nice but something in this actually upsets my stomach.

Loukhoum is a gourmand fragrance that is inspired by Turkish Delight, and it is actually wearable – some I've tried aren't. This Loukhoum is not in-your- face as several of the other ones. This Loukhoum is more subtle; it's sweet but not gooey syrupy; and it has a tolerable sillage. The pistachios and hazelnuts are appetizing but not cloying, and even the difficult- to- use almonds are handled with an excellent artistry. The rose is subtly excellent and it definitely moves the fragrance into the “elegant” territory. Loukhoum's sillage is civilized and the longevity is superb. This is a refined, well made scent: it's performance and price could not be better. This is one of the best – surely the most wearable – interpretation of Turkish Delight I've seen.

The nuts and musk in this Loukhoum make this scent very gender neutral. Creamy, soft, and delicious...not overly foody.