Lust
Lush (2010)

I've been biding my time
Been so subtly kind
I've got to think so selfishly
'Cos you're the face inside of me
I've been biding my days
You see evidently it pays
I've been a friend with unbiased views
And then secretly lust after you

A fragrance that radiates all day long :). The jasmine is very prominent here, the overpowering floral in this is sweetened by the vanilla, which balances the frag out. Not one for people who dislike strong heady perfume.

Lush perfumes are paradoxically simple to understand, but difficult to talk about, as Mark Constantine perfumer/owner was never a classically-trained perfumer, and like Roger "Roja" Dove, has his background in makeup and marketing. However, after discovering that the fragrances he contracted out to chemist firms for his homemade bath products weren't always as naturally-derived as he would like, he took it upon himself to start mucking about with perfumer's raw materials and in essence became an early crude form of the one-man operation perfumers we have in niche circles now. Problem is, many so-called bedroom companies have folks who've studied perfume if not academically, at least from a hobbyist standpoint, for years before diving in, but with Mark and his Lush, he just decided to dive right in as he had done with homemade cosmetics years before alongside Liz Weir. Thus, some of these perfumes are very child-like in their simple interpretation of a theme, while others are accidentally elegant in their simplicity, and still others downright shocking. Lust (2010) falls into the latter category.

Lust takes the theme of the late 19th century "fallen women", and focuses on the heavily indolic jasmine perfumes they often wore, much like women's orientals and chypres did in the immediate postwar period. Key difference here is Lust focuses almost exclusively on the jasmine indole and nothing else, diming the volume on it and building the rest of the fragrance around that. Jasmine indole wielded like a cudgel is the gist of Lust, period. The opening lacks all citrus and literally is just a blast of jasmine hedione with a churning heart of indole underneath, which quickly comes into view in under 5 to 10 minutes. The rich, fatty, dirty indole is shored up by rose and ylang-ylang, but they're suffocated into the indole before they have time to separate from the main accord too much. Sandalwood, vanilla, linalool, and coumarin make up the base. Of course, I don't know what kind of compound is used to imitate the mysore here, but it's of that creamy Chanel Égoïste (1990) variety. Longevity is insane and sillage can also be a monster too.

Fans of primal animalics will fall in love with Lust, and the fragrance layers well with other jasmine-forward fragrances like Dior Eau Sauvage (1966) or Diptyque Olean (1988), providing a deep indolic vanilla sandalwood backbone to the flighty and fleet nature of jasmine hedione perfumes known for sometimes poor performance. I definitely think Lust is a winner but jasmine this rich usually doesn't find favor with most CISHET guys used to their clean citruses, laundry musks, or spicy sweet amber woods, which comprise the bulk of their modern palette. Therefore, Lust stays thoroughly feminine to my nose, only to be explored by masculine folks really into jasmine or already crossing silly gender boundaries in fragrance with their choices. Wear this pair of soiled panties where you dare, but one thing is for sure, you definitely do not wear something like Lust to the office! I find a floral this heavy smells best in cold air, so it's particularly useful in northern regions or winter months. Thumbs up!

This is the Jasmine Indole that is laid down behind the Jasmine Absolute.
I have the solid perfume. It provides a beautiful albeit saccharin laden base below my Vintage Eau Fraiche and has it's (Eau Fraiche) rot lasting more than half an hour. Those with fear of the Fecal and Petroleum best stay away!

Jasmine, jasmine, jasmine. Fuel. Jasmine, jasmine. Ylang-ylang, fuel, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose. You've got to like jasmine, but if you do, it's gorgeously sexy. Sensual. I love it at night better than during the day. After the meal, as it's quite agressive.

A Sea of Jasmine...

This perfume packs one hell of a punch! It is strong strong strong! The way it hits you with a sweet jasmine & ylang-ylang combination is crazy! But it's not like being punched with a fist, no, more like being hit with a soft pillow (but really hard)! But I like it. If you are a (real) jasmine lover, then you will find this amazing!

Lush - Lust opens with a huge blast of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang, accompanied by sandalwood. The overall "vibe" is not too different from Guerlain - Samsara. It's also very strong for the first 30 minutes to about an hour. After that it calms down and you get a very mellow and soft, beautiful tropical aroma of sensual jasmine & ylang-ylang, soft rose, and creamy sandalwood. Absolutely beautiful! Here the perfumer Mark Constantine said that he adds jasmine to many of the perfumes made by this company, as a kind of "signature" note, but that here he made it the main note of the perfume, and used it in quantities which are more than any other jasmine perfume out there... and because jasmine is a white flower, and has a very sensual smell, he called it "Lust".

Well, I've tried this one out in hot weather and cold weather and I think it works in both. It is quite strong (maybe too strong for many), but because I am a true lover of jasmine I don't really care what other people think, because I feel good (and that's all that matters)! However for most other people I would suggest wearing this perfume in cold weather (winter). Because it is quite strong, but it will make you forget the cold and think of something "tropical"... it will take you to an exotic place and make you forget the cold! If you love jasmine, you must try this one. To me it's strong, but it's totally worth the price (very cheap), and I love it very much.