Mandarina Corsica
L'Artisan Parfumeur (2018)

Like a Dutch Old Master still life, where citrus gleams against pellucid marzipan and homemade cookies on a wooden table, this is a gourmand.
But the effect is ambiguous, it doesn't overdo the mouth-feel; it's sweet - but not edible. Quentin Bisch wasn't trying to catch us by our taste buds -– like some of the more crass foody scents have done - he was scouting the borderlands of taste and odour, the most interesting grounds for a gourmand.

Unlike some perfumery - which sacrifices beauty on the altar of weirdness - this is a thoroughly pleasant ride - as well as one that keeps you on your toes.
In that sense, it walks the line between niche and mainstream, being interesting - but still accessible.

I really wanted to like this, and I do. Just not sure it's full bottle worthy. Especially since L'Artisan seems to be offering less options in a 50ml.
At first, it reminds me a bit of Dzing! I think it has that hairspray note that I remember. Could be the sweetness of the caramel. Although, I know the perfumers are different, perhaps it was some direction from the house that causes the similarity I smell at first.
It seems on less humid days I get more of the mandarin notes. More humid days, like I've been experiencing lately reveal that hairspray/Dzing! note.
After a little time it's straight on tonka, for me. I don't notice any other notes playing hide and seek once the tonka is front and center.
I really think L'Artisan would sell more if they didn't push so many into the 100ml. I would purchase this if it was offered in 50ml. As it stands, I don't need a huge bottle and don't want to roll out the cash for something I'll never finish in my lifetime. Too bad, because it is a fun scent.

Ok. Update. I bought a full bottle. HA. and I really like it. I notice more of the citrus with some good full bottle sprays. I make sure to spray some on my arm and catch myself smelling it throughout the day. Definitely, seems too heavy for the very hot, humid days I'm experiencing now. Once it cools down a bit, I see myself wearing this every day for a while.

I smelled the creamy desert from the first whiff. It's very sweet, candy-like, with loads of syrupy immortelle, tonka and bitter mandarin. It does not really evolve in something else, it remains mostly the same, sweet and bitter with mandarin and almond nuances.

Mandarina Corsica is a bit surprising. A mix of candy “fake” mandarin with a little bit of flower you happen to love without believing it. It's uplifting for sure, but a bit linear.

On my skin, Mandarina Corsica is mostly a play-off between two competing accords, namely juicy mandarin and creamy caramel. The madarin scores first with not only its vividly realistic succulent pulps, but also its slightly bitter, even metallic pith, while the caramel looms around the edge. Then the caramel gathers force in the next two hours to gain equal footing with the mandarin.

The caramel in Mandarina Corsica is thankfully not one-dimensional, saccarine syrupiness. Instead, it has a deliciously milky, unctuous texture mimicking the sensation when a cube of caramel starts to melt on the palate. Moreover, there is also a subtle smoky facet, probably borrowed from the immortelle, that enhances the natural feeling of the caramel note, while a delicate touch of tonka beans' powdery almond nuance rounds everything off.

This middle phase of Mandarina Corsica is my favourite part, not only because the caramel note is well constructed and rich in nuances, but also because its juxtaposition with the juicy pulp and metallic pith of mandarin creates an intriguing tension as well as making the caramel appear less heavy. As a result, I'm reminded of Déliria also from L'Artisan, and Etat Libre d'Orange La Fin du Monde also signed by Quentin Bisch. Not because they smell any similar, but all three have this interesting contrast between various gourmand and metallic elements. I'm also sometimes reminded of Prada Candy at times, as both have an appetizingly unctuous yet not so heavy caramel note, but the mandarine note also plays a strong role in Mandarina Corsica.

The dry down is predictably dominated by the caramel and tonka bean about 5 hours in. Sadly, without the enticing citrus to balance, the caramel and tonka bean tend to become more sugary and flat in the end. The sillage is moderate in general, while the longevity can reach to 10 hours.

I initially dismissed Mandarina Corsica as uninteresting upon first sniff, having thought it's merely capitalzing the gourmand trend. But when the different nuances unfold themselves in the course of its development, I was pleasantly surprised. However, I'm still slightly disappointed by the safe and monotonous dry down, especially because of the potential shown by this surprising juxtapostion of two well realised accords. Nevertheless, I think it's worth at least sampling it, even if gourmand fragrances are not one's favourite genre and just for a fun olfactory experience.